igor

Published when?

Perhaps even have a yarn to some of the good old boys at the Whangarei branch of the Vintage Car Club. When I was a member there back in the 80's there were a few real hard out Model T and A fans among them. Some of them might be still alive / active in the club.

Rusti, a chick friend had a '36 Morris 8 back in the 80's. We had a lot of fun cruising in that and she was not averse to driving it hard on occasion. One day we shot a quite long one lane bridge at 60 mph and made a P6B Rover back off.

Shame about the requirement to fit the guard flares to get a wof. I think they spoil the look a little bit. Would have been nice to just pump the hydrolastic up all the way and run it rebel if you could have got away with it.

Niki, the question above was for you. As a BMC driver since the 80's I love those things.

^ Was that your Austin in the pics from Wagnats? To me those don't qualify as excessively low powered cars only capable of a top speed of 70 km/h on the open road. A '36 Morris 8 can achieve average speeds in that range.

Those AA Road Atlases rock. I have the hardcover version with the native birds, trees and shit, and also the soft cover version with (now horribly outdated) street maps of major (and some minor) centres in the back. Always remember that the travel time charts therein are calculated as being driving time only for those who travel at about 70 km/h on the open road or are using a low powered car (they were published when the limit was 80).

I've dailied these things off and on since the 80's and still have two of them. Must remember to scan some of my old photos and post them in the appropriate place for the amusement of fellow MOWOG owners. I agree with Muncie with regard to lowered hydrolastic just looking like it's broken. I like the thought of adjustable ride height though. Normal for cruising and being able to raise the fuck out of it to get some decent ground clearance for off road use. Also being able harden up the rear independently of the front to prevent it dragging its arse when towing would be a very good thing.

I think you're mad to consider putting that engine in either of the cars you have but I'd like to see a fully illustrated report if you do make it fit.

Danger tape is fine if one is excavating but no use at all when mole ploughing cos you can't see it. Neighbour had a drainage contractor stray into the wrong paddock and they got the buried telephone cable fourteen times.

I'd be inclined to put the power cable overhead where it's visible. It's easier and cheaper plus you won't get some silly prick putting a digger through it years later cos they don't know where it is.

I totally have shed envy. Love the paint pantry. Brilliant idea, far superior to open shelves. I claim that lack of a decent shed is the reason I don't get much done on my own projects but really it is family commitments and taking care of the farm animals that sucks up my time. You are truly blessed in having a wife / other half who shares your interest in things mechanical. Sadly mine does not and I fear she will never understand the pleasures thereof.

The first sentence in the original post immediately made me think he should try Viagra.

ta63-1uzze, I take your point about the dodginess of tractor grip tyres for normal road use and there are a number of reasons why I would not make them my first choice including vibration and the excessive noise they make on chipseal. I did actually have some near new road tyres on this car but I put them on my wife's Laser to get it a warrant. Bonus, the rims fitted. I've got a spare radiator from another EN Civic but unfortunately it's a manual one so it doesn't have the trans cooler for the Hondamatic. In this area when the snow comes it is not unknown to see farm utes fitted with tractor grip tyres in the main street. People around here mostly use their intelligence and drive to the conditions though so it doesn't become a real issue. Taistorm, Cletus, good to know about the chemiweld. I suspect this car is also in the process of eating the head gasket so I will keep that in mind.

See fabrication foibles thread for pics of the bonnet repair and the tyres.

If a cop caught me driving that thing into town he'd need a second ticket book. It goes and stops and the lights all work but it's rusted to fuck and has tractor tyres on the front so it looks more than a bit dodgy.

Might try that if I can't solder it up Mof. Thanks for the tip.

Should do what Speeno says and solder the leak. Could probably do it still in the car if it's where I think it is. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

The demister doesn't work anyway since my wife got a rock through the windscreen back when it still had a warrant and some stupid cunt who thought he was helping knocked all the glass out for her. I'm still finding bits of glass ten years or more later. But yeah, a heater core does make an effective auxiliary radiator sometimes.

Might be on the same wavelength there Dolan. I think my Civic has less rust than Zebra Dude's Landau but only cos it's a smaller car. It'll probably fall apart sooner rather than later. That's why I don't want to spend shitloads of money on it.

Yeah to reducing the pressure K-trips. Been doing that for quite a while now. I checked the water level in the rad on Saturday and absent mindedly put the cap back on all the way instead of just enough to stay on. I think that's why it developed the leak. An AA roadside rescue serviceman once used an unknown stopleak product in my XC Falcon to "cure" a leaking frost plug cos it was the difficult to replace one behind the exhaust manifold and it ran like that for some years with no problems. Mof, the leak appears to be in the core and given the age of the car I think it is most likely to be copper.

Took my Civic for a hurtle up our mates farm on the weekend to gather firewood and found that it has developed a radiator leak. Don't want to spend money replacing the rad cos the whole car is getting pretty suss. Can anyone recommend a stopleak product for a cheap survival job please? The Warehouse has a Wynns product for $15. Has anyone used this and is it any good?

2 litre is too little. It'd have to rev it's nuts off to get power.

Falcon 4.1 iron head crossflow.

Can you get away with cutting the factory battery box out of a fucked Mini, or making a reasonable facsimile thereof, and welding it into the boot floor? It has been a workable system in the Mini since 1959 after all.