Bangbug

If someone makes the file I'll make the poster or what have you.

Well you see.... the oil increases the operating temperature by 6750 degrees which you multiply by 0.0000072 (steel expansion ratio to temp) to give 0.0486 which you multiply by 4 cogs = 0.1944 * 100 = 19.4% increase in the volume of the steel gears which reduces your ratio. The idiot.... it's 19.4% not 20%, guess we can't all be perfect.

Nothing on the engine? I know a bloke with a Mk1 with a beams and he keeps killing it due to oiling issues. Are these the issues you were reading about? I think it's the angle of his engine and the sump layout but it's been to clever chaps and keeps being a PITA.

This is where we need "I can reset your leaves for $xx because blocks suck." Anyone? and Chris from http://www.stech.co.nz/ can give you a run down on front end options even if it's just to get an idea.

Yay, you can just buy a kit for discs Actually, being Amercian you can buy kits for just about anything! Wonder what sort of rear suspension is in there.....

Well apparently 16.1 - 16.5 is the best ratio for economy. Just not so good for NOx production I'm going to be doing this shortly. I agree, having knock detection would be great I'm just going to set the closed loop to running and listen

Hi Roman, Sounds like a pretty solid option. Love to give it a crack, 5-6mm was about what I was thinking. I'll pm ya.

I'll PM keltik but in the meanwhile, I'm wondering where to obtain a solenoid valve for this purpose and how large should/would I go on my 2L 4 banger. Also have the option for stepper motor control so would love it if anyone has any plans/info on either of these options. Many thanks. Oh and if none of that makes sense, it's regarding Idle Control with a TB bypass. Solenoid or stepper motor and sizing.

I'm in. Sorry, just the ute will be appearing. Euron8 I'll bring your stickers and if AALAWS is there, and if I can find his SR stuff, I'll bring that too. I see I missed on the banner excitement, which is a pity, as I have a big roll of banner and a printer into which it goes and even some ink which splats out on the top and I'm averse to being paid for things, though the missus is getting rather annoyed about such things and I can't get his scent off me.

Thanks for the share! That looks like it'll be a good read, GET ON MY IPAD NOOOOOOOOW!

Ed's Inseminations Next time I'm in Chch I know who I'm calling for a good time. By the amount of ACM around I assume you're a scumbag too? I mean signwriter too.... Scumbag.

Come on, quote the sentence at least, sounds like I'm calling him a dick otherwise

My Mercury Capri cherry just got popped by this thread. You sir, are welcome to my flower. Great thread, great work!

I know this isn't the place and we're sort of jacking it but...... It's not the same as CRC, the cooling effect is the propellant which is gas at 1 atm is phase changing back to gas from liquid which is as you've previously said a phase change. So you've compressed it, it's bled out its heat over time and now it's "taking it back yo!" because compressed things are thugs. The CRC is at the same temperature that you sprayed it out of the can if you can keep it from giving its energy to the gas. (well unless you can measure the 0.0000002% so essentially the same). So that's a rather big change, but if gasoline is a liquid it won't compress much at all... since it's a liquid. And since that's what would be described as the work done in this model it would be a tiny amount of work so therefore a tiny amount of heat energy returning to the liquid assuming it had been cooled in the first place down to what would be the equivalent of the regular FI pressure (apples with apples). I'd say high pressure efi is warmer than low pressure efi or at the least the same after a cooler. (friction from pumping = heat). Well that's my 2 cents anyway, any fluid dynamics dynamos on here? /deviationfromthreadapoligies

Buh? If both a low pressure and a high pressure fuel evapd to vapour then the lower pressure one would absorb more energy as it wouldn't have been pumped so hard (which adds heat).

Don't worry to much about the flat road though it makes the instances easier to spot Use megalog viewer, graphs are the quickest and easiest way to spot what's going on. Just had a quick look at MS website, they have a nice bout of info on "how to". Now we want some screen grabs of how you went about it!

Is it batch or sequential, sequential hardly ever suffers from wall wetting. I have batch but it's spraying onto the backs of the valves so it makes no difference. From memory they had a few "pump" enrichments for MS, does that still stand? Depending on rate of ∆ tps. (fast, slow, medium etc ∆) Transient throttle is tricky, I was actually looking at maths for a 5 point moving average before putting that something on hold and getting an atom I know I'm late but well done on your DIY EFI We're in the same boat probably, I did some DIY EFI on the b2200. Link + crank sensor + waste spark + FE3 etc. Goes really well, had it off the clock last night and that's without a highrpm tune in her yet! EFI ftw! I'd go large and bring it back for the enrichment. How's your logging?

Holy heck this is a developed thread. If you have a "pump" function dick with that first for sure. What sensors are you running now? (I see commie + airbox so I assume MAF?) TPS and MAP = winning. TPS is obviously immediate in response and MAP is pretty damn quick too, MAF can be fine but they'll always lag behind the other two. So if you have a TPS make sure your "pump" is in relation to that and not the MAF, it's already to late by then. Commence flaming.

The people complaining aren't looking for work. Those of us working don't have time to complain. And this is OS, we're all full time workaholics (or something), otherwise we'd all have sweet rides that were all complete instead of a "projects" thread 18 miles long I wish I knew someone to fit the role, but saying that I'd have them working for me instead

Turbo! Weeeeeeeeeee, then you sir, made the correct choice If I get really stuck, I'll PM on the box and key, but otherwise, there should be plenty about the place over here, people are steering clear of the vvti's unless they're going full aftermarket from what I can see. They're into the non-vvti's in a big way though. Let us know how it goes with George.

Oh and some more. Should have done a VK45 Neighbour has one in his R33 and it's BANANA's. Clint, tell the man.

More to my post. If anyone has a key/amplifier combo not in use/surplus that'd be great. I'd love to give it a crack. PM me. I have yet to read into it more, I think some had immobilizer on-board and some had separate ecu for security. The good thing about car computers is that they must be non-encrypted! mwahahaha.

There is a bloke in Moscow who can help you with your immobilizer. I may end up using the same bloke, so that's a bit of postage for me, not so much for you Google George_R. $150 US or so and he does something, let us know how you go. I've contacted him via Google + but no response as yet, maybe I did it wrong. I've also been thinking that if I could emulate the code I'd be fine as I think I have a way of resetting the ecu to accept the code I give it. But the engine is still on the floor of the shed and I have a deck and stable and retaining wall to build and business to run.......... jebus. Good luck!

DO IT! With matching turbo.

Excellent, I look forward to browsing this thread. Well done chaps. And cr, I think there are some spring rate calculations online and you pick a height and spring rate to suit what height you want your regular ride to be at. Then if you're going up or down you'll have a firmer ride higher and softer ride lower.... well not really, go lower and you'll hit something and it'll become very firm again If you have a retailer in mind, drop them a line and share their wisdom with us too