locost_bryan

https://www.hobbycity.nz/collections/cars/products/fujimi-035468-1-24-nissan-march-g-ak11

Must try harder to make next month.

Know Ken and his builds from the Marina club forum and FB groups. @The Dude is the other Marina foamer.

Light car, light driver, light foot?

https://mpg.webix.co.uk/5-litres-to-mpg/ 5l/100km = 56mpg (Imperial)

Milly and Molly. Call the 2 door Mandy, and you've got this...

https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/holden_identification

An Aussie guy is doing just that.

Sure would. On the future upgrade list. RV8 might have been cheaper than rebuilding the 4, would be tempted to do a V8 van if I had the room and money (and could find a good one).

All the missing parts have finally arrived, and been delivered to WAER. Dropped box at the COVID barrier at the front door, rang Eric to let him know, then had a brief socially-distanced discussion about the next steps. Waved to @piazzanoob when he walked out into the workshop just as I was heading off. Marina was sent off for a new exhaust, as the front pipe had rusted out and the rest of the system was heading the same way. Decided not to get too carried away, as the biggest restriction is probably the outlet from the stock cast iron manifold, even though it has a 4-2-1 layout. Did a bit of research on what MGB folk recommend, as it has a similar power range, and my cam is similar spec to a fast road MGB. Consensus was that the stock 1 3/4" was too small, and that 1 7/8" gave the best drivability and throttle response, but 2" gave a slight boost at the top end. Anything larger was found to give less power. Should give a little more power and a sportier exhaust note, as Leyland fitted the same piddly exhaust to the TC as they did to the single carb 1500 and 1750. Might have to save up some pennies to put it on the rolling road and see how it compares to the stock 90bhp at the flywheel.

If Burlen get their SU injection to market, 6 of these would look cool.

Isn't that how the TSI engines work? 1 litre triple with 170Nm of torque from 2000-3500rpm or 2 litre with 320Nm from 1500-4500rpm.

Hard to get parts for. Only 300-600 cars sold per year between 1958 and 1971. Assembled by Motor Holdings in Otahuhu from 1958-62 (alongside VW), before Campbell Industries took over and assembled in Thames from 64-71 (alongside Peugeot, Hino, Datsun and Toyota). Rambler assemblers at Motor Holdings Otahuhu in 1962.

Since Chrysler bought AMC, a hemi from a 300C should keep the DNA intact.

Wasn't there a factory overdrive option? What axle are you going to use?

As with most projects that have been through several owners while dismantled, a few odd things went missing and required a global search to find replacements. The rubber seal for the front passenger's quarterlight window had gone AWOL, I eventually found a NOS one in Arkansas, from a guy who had acquired the parts stock from a mid-west MG and Austin dealer. A set of new TC wheel covers came from another NOS parts collection in Australia. The engine was fitted with the wrong oil filler cap, a tall vented Mini one, rather than the correct short non-vented one. A Facebook search eventually sourced one from an Austin 1500 owner in Aus. A replacement for the worn oil pump drive was sourced from the UK, fortunately one of the few Maxi parts that Leyland Australia had used and retained the original part number.

After stripping the engine, WAER found the cast iron manifold had been badly repaired in the past and was beyond salvation. Thankfully there was a spare in my stash of parts, so that saved the day. Fortunately the worn ring gear was easily replaced.

Long time since the last update. Engine was sent off to West Auckland Engine Reconditioners for a freshen up. Turns out it had been bored out .040", and just needed a hone plus new rings and bearings. Cam had been reground at some point, but was a bit worn, so was sent off for some attention. Required new cam adjusting shims to be made, as the correct ones couldn't be found in the required thicknesses to suit the reprofiled cam. Also required repairs to the backing plate, as this closes off the rear coolant gallery and had corroded badly. Had to be welded up and ground smooth. Mysteriously, the dipstick and tube were missing. Fortunately an acquaintance in Invercargill with a restored TC Coupe, had found a rotten TC in a paddock and was able to supply the missing parts. Gordon was also able to salvage the hinge blocks for the rear quarterlight windows, which are no longer available new. Also missing from the engine was the original distributor, so I opted not to get the original Lucas 29D recurved, and ordered an electronic 43D from Powerspark in the UK.

Pull out the speedo drive pinion and check it's not damaged and is seated properly.

Could you get the look you want with higher profile tyres? 195/60x14 has 28mm taller sidewall, so you would only need to lower 20-30mm to get guard in line with the tyre, and would give you more wriggle room to keep 100mm under the sill and crossmember.

WAER have just done my Marina engine. Little British engine next to the big block mopars, looked like the puny guy in those old Charles Atlas ads.

Selecting the correct needle and spring probably has less to do with engine capacity, and more to do with the expected power output, cam timing, etc. Do you know the cam timing and power curves for the Toyota engine? If it's running ok when warm, is the choke working when it's cold? This is worth a read https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf

SU damper oil is SAE20, but any light engine oil should work ok.

There's a spreadsheet of Pinto cams here https://www.classic-ford.org/cfp/tm.aspx?m=20701 There are only two cams listed with 308D inlet and exhaust (neither match your other codes), but could give you some ideas for timing.

Could be useful if the dipstick is hard to get to when installed in the Thames?