ajg193
-
Posts
7450 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Everything posted by ajg193
-
Rock up to your local dairy farm or RD1 or fertilizer place and offer them a viva burnout in return for a milk bottle filled with acid
-
Optimum High Foam milking shed washdown detergent will make the aluminium look like brand new. About 13% sulphuric acid, 13% phosphoric acid and the remainder is some sort of mix of magic and water
-
Sure it is. Put the quadbike components on the car itself of the cable car if you want to be able to twist the throttle and fly up a hill
-
Surely there would be heaps of old steel cable around Nelson (forestry and all) that is easy enough to locate? Make up a cable car to haul stuff up.
-
Get the one with the diamond or carbide bits, ie not the cheap stuff. Use a bit of wood or similar as a straight edge. Lay glass on flat surface with the bit you want to remove overhanging from the surface. Hit the bit you want to remove with the handle end of the glass cutter and it should break free (make sure to hold it while doing this or you might lose your feet)
-
It'll more than likely be the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump that has gone bad and is letting the fuel into the oil
-
How loose does your output shaft feel? Do these gearboxes have a bushing to keep the driveshaft located?
-
RGB lighting is always a bonus
-
That seems like the best part of the specs haha. Why is the competitor in Chinese? Seems almost like a dodgy ripoff filter? Edit: The image was just translated from Japanese and those kanji characters are just the remains
-
What's special about a TRD filter/what are they worth?
-
I'd try to reuse the old seals if possible. Failing that I'm sure you could track some aftermarket ones down on ebay.
-
0.5 mm at a distance of 100 mm from the hub axis would equate to approximately 2.5 mm at the centre of the shaft, assuming the whole shaft is bent at the centre. In that case, 2.5 mm would probably be beyond tolerance and probably cause substantial vibration. But yeah, try with the gearbox disconnected, or try inspect the wheel bearings for any roughness.
-
@NickJ what was the name of that software you were using to take photos of an object and upload them to a crunching server to produce 3D model?
-
Does it have a rev counter? This can give you a good indication of whether the problem is ignition hardware related instead of ignition timing. A rev counter which jumps around instead of holding a steady value (within reason, ie it has to match what you can hear the engine doing) indicates that the distributor is providing a noisy signal to the coil. This could be either bad points/condenser or a dirty/bad/misaligned pickup module. Have you checked and adjusted the gaps on each spark plug?
-
I didn't grind the Starlet flywheel when I did the clutch. No problems so far. Then again the original clutch was still like new and doesn't appear to have ever caused the flywheel to have gotten hot. With the forces/friction in a normal clutch, it will bed into the flywheel pretty quickly unless the flywheel is in serious need of a refinishing. But if you can get it done for cheap/free and/or the flywheel is visually degraded then definitely go for it. A few dollars spent now can save hours of headache/wasted time down the road.
-
So the car is completely worthless now: I also tightened up the sump bolts the other day, hopefully that does something to reduce the oil leak at the back of the engine - a couple of bolts were a little loose back there.
-
Talking about gases, we have a chiller unit with a vat of cider in it at home. When you first make the stuff and it gases up/relief valve releases CO2 into the room you can't walk into the chiller without first airing it out, just about knocks you down/stops you breathing instantly.
-
Remember to just check them spinning with the drum off before going through all the effort of removing them completely
-
Very impressive. I'm keen to see if it saves much fuel with your new system afterwards.
-
Especially if you are running 95/98, a lot of fuel companies in NZ put up to 10% ethanol in the fuel. This will absorb water and increase the corrosion rate in a tank.
-
Lift it and put 4WD tyres on.
-
One thing you can do is make a sound/video recording from inside the car when it is vibrating, just turn the engine off while you are doing it. About 5-10 seconds should be long enough. Then run that recording through a free program called audacity and do a fourier transform to get the frequencies out. ~4000 rpm is ~65 Hz ~1000 rpm is ~16 Hz So you can look for peaks around that sort of range I've done the same sort of thing before to validate computational models of some bash plates just using a digital camera
-
Do these run a swaybar? I had a bad bushing in the swaybar assembly on my old corolla and it had a fairly bad vibration around 100 kph. How are your suspension bushes in general?
-
The electric window works fine and the car knows when the door is locked/unlocked so I would assume so but I'll make sure to check that
-
That's what I'm thinking it could be. Just a case of dried up grease or something. The car was sitting around unused for the last 5 years.
