chris r

Anyway back on topic @Ben_10jaycar do a cheap shift light kit which includes a schematic for a ignition cut circuit. I made it (the ignition cut) up on a bit of verro board so If you are ok with a soldering iron that could be a option. Edit I can't find it on their website but I have the Destructions somewhere and am happy to scan if needed

Uuh But the megasquirt controlled spark yes? So in your case it goes points - - >megasquirt -->coil correct? So when the megasquirt does rev limit itself there is no change to the input signal. Carb it goes points >coil and the revlimiter is in parallel with the points essentially. So when you reach the set rpm it triggers the coil negative at a x frequency. The coil negative is also connected to the points And the input to the reverse limiter. And because the rev limiter is putting out x signal not the actual rpm it goes mental and is not steady. The theory with using the relay is to "change " the coil negative from the points to the rev limiter so you do not back feed the signal. A relay is cheap enough to test if it'll work. If it does great go for it.

it shouldn't. fuse shut, they are rated to 20 or 30 amps. I was wondering about the delay with the coil energizing and how it'd cope with being switched quickly It might dirty the contacts pretty quickly but at the end of the day it is cheap and easy enough to try

The difference is you are using megasquirt for the ignition trigger not points.

My thoughts too re the relay. Solid state or a higher power transistor might be a better option.

The only problem with the revlimiters on carbs is they use the points as a rpm input. They then switch the coil to make the awesome bangs and get into a feedback loop and are a bit shit. Jaycar do a shift light kit and they include a ignition cut ciricuit. I tried it on a carb vehicle and it was a bit shit, did it on a injected one and it worked mint

The best way imo is connect the secondary or house battery to the vehicle with a vsr or voltage sensing relay. It'll automatically switch when the batteries are being charged and isolate them when they aren't If you were in all I'd have a look for you

Slap a bit of oil down the bore and it'll be as good as new

Got a cheap motor for this... some guys stateside have butchered a fc to fit

Silly suggestion but Honda f20c or k series? I've got a really cheap k24 you can buy

This is oldschool. Why buy something fit for purpose it'll cost more and take longer but you have made it yourself

My price was heaps higher than 200 iirc so if you can go with Mr Quattros option

is there something silly like a relief spring missing in the pump. Is it a new pump?

Good start with the snow. Now I want to see yours on grass plz Keep up the good work

Tell me about it. It's nothing like the rage of no arc striking at all on the 20th time because the welder has given up

mayte no need for a welder I've got some jumper leads here

nah mayte cast factory shit with adaptor is how I roll. Want to make me a nice one lol

Go with that option tbh. I can get pricing through R.S and its nowhere close to 200.

Fuck thats horrid. Notice the china manifold thats had a whole packet of filler rods thrown at it Here is a slightly less horrible one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/honda/auction-1379740387.htm

fucke yeah this is awesome! skid vids plz

Na, I've got shit all skills and did the course. They start out with the basics so is well worth doing it

Crashed or thrashed? Can you even drive them 'nicely'?

I've been looking on and off for a few years and ended up with this one. I messed out on a minter last year by a few hours. I think they were relatively cheap a few years ago and as they go hard for what they are they have all been fucked

I saw there was a crx at Zebra so I popped out today and got a rear bumper and a dash. I got the bumper installed and it looks heaps better. Dash will wait until later. There is a crashed crx down the road , I've left my number on it so hopefully they contact me and I can grab it for all the interior stuff I need

@piazzanoob was a gc and sorted out the caliper and we put it back on last week. The pads were a bit of a fuck around to get back in. Gave the brakes a bleed and it's less jerky now. I'll give the drums a adjust up so some point which should sort out some of the pedal travel. I still need to finish the headlight wiring and get rid of the old 2nd battery wiring that's hanging down