smokin'joe

good work on the bonnet, mine was in better nick, but was told it would be $1500 to get real good again!!, maybe i didn't need the spendy one from Aussie ?? radiator looks like CR39 Liteace van (can measure one here for you) , but the EA82 Subaru Leone had a similar one from memory

@cletus , what's your take on the legality of a non-welded twin master set-up like this : as i am going with Wilwood 4-pots on front of Levin, i am thinking a bias system will be easier to tune than mucking around with M/Cylinder sizings . Fanx

might as well be. i'm not fit for public display

funny you should mention my common mistake !! went to weld up the crate on the scrub truck, and realised i done it again. just as well the bottle was only 1/4 full, and the refill is free on the BOC Home D plan

you pissing off to live back in the pig-island ??, or just a seasonal excursion ??

when are you looking to by and what is it ? you may be able to pick me up on way through, or borrow my trailer if it fits............ providing it is when i am in the Catlins

should be easy enough to re-kit them, as they will be a generic piston/seal i'd be more concerned about the wheel bearings, as the Trojan ones on my trailer were MK2? Zepher and were over $400 per hub to replace, if they were obtainable

cheers, found that last nite, and i guess if everything is mounted as close to original bumper line, it should be ok. some of the ones i have seen, leave a lot to be desired

@cletus does a winch bar need cert ? did search on here, but no result. fanx

would repower to suit. can't be any more gutless than a HFZ !

does that make it an LFD ?

sorry Barry, but to correct you. RB's may have been in existance in '85, but RFB wasn't even a bunch of sperm in dad's bags in 85

maybe RFB is why it has been made pre-98?

1998 ain't Old or cool

good score, Luke this may be the needed motivation to do something with mine!! i reckon i still have A>K50 box in shed as well as bumpers if you are wanting

i'm sure it was Jeep that the stock car guys referenced as OEM for stock-car use... not that i own a stock-car

Jeeps are performance, arn't they ??

brand new 86 rotors from brake shop here in town $75 brand new willwoods from idiot that was broke $200 CAD CNC brackets from mate in Dunedin $100 all in the last 12 months, not fitted to car, yet. late hubs made me $25, once i sold bare struts to an 86 owner

the recipe i am using, well proven in KE and KP willwood superlite 4 pot AE86/Late KE70 hubs and 230mm AE86 discs CAD machined brackets can still run a 13" wheel, only variable is bolt pattern for donor struts owe me less than $400 and only hubs are s/h

that may have been what i fitted ? @Bling what is the state of the front shocks ? if the shocks are fucked, or too soft, the brakes will work harder. if you have the bigger diameter strut tube, a cheap option is CE70 shocks. they are valved different for the heavier diesel engine.

unless you are gonna make it boogie a fair bit more than standard, that kit would be over kill ( although i have similar going up front on the rally car). have you tried decent pads up front ? can't remember the brand i originally used in the TE71, (some BNT special order), but made a huge difference with fade. i have some late KE70 discs backing plates and calipers if you want them, as i only wanted the hubs, and a mate bought the struts

didn't make a lot of sense to me in a standard strut tube situation, as springs have to be captive, and the welded ring was good enough for factory. my original perches were gently cut away with hacksaw, and adjustment used for (god forbid) gaining ground clearance, not lowering.

@cletus the original weld is still there, holding every thing in compression, why then would it need welded for cert ? not mine, but mine are done this way

how soon ?? we are hoping to go south week of 11th ( same as Catlins Rally) and tandem will be mostly empty heading south. can you get it to Timaru, ?

@phatt20