Muncie

Im at the point of diminishing returns with my blower it needs intercooling to make more power theres options none are cheap 2500k upwards and then you have one boost all the time swapping pulleys all the time doesn't float my boat either. Was hoping a big single would be tractable but give it some long legs as at moment it's all punch but run it thru the gears and the power trails off due to everything getting so damn hot.

Hey trying to figure out a turbo for my rolling vx commodore project its a v6 supercharged one so am looking to pull the blower off and make up some steam pipe headers. Keen for a big single with head room to huff 18psi realistically it wont see much more than 5700 rpm to make it last, can tolerate a bit of lag but be good if its at full boost by 3000rpm. The old M90 will likely find itself on a triumph once this has been ticked off.

I had the pulsing pedal with my commodore and occasional Abs light come up, new rotors fluid and pads cured it. Perhaps your rotors might be worn below the minimum tolerance allowing the pads to travel to far and get skewed in the caliper when braking. Off brand rotors are dirt cheap if it is the cause.

Resene vinyl etch and water based enamel works a treat with a fine dacron roller. How do i know? Ive done my trailer in it the poor thing gets abuse and the paint is holding on like shit to a blanket. You will need to experiment with the etch it dries ultra fast as its solvent based.

Go for the one thats the most serviceable a torch thats replacable consumables you can optain easily. My welder is a 180 amp it blazez 4mm steel non stop for a good 30 minutes before the "im spent" light comes on. if your not building trailers with steel decks the smaller one will likely be easier to live with providing its controls arent to basic.

Mitsi enthusiasts prefer the term combined cycle combustion they use petrol oil and water all at once. Maybe thats the 3 star deal, pencils to sattelites mitsi do it all.

Paper cert dies with the plates was what i found with my triumph ute. It all got very expensive to re-register a fine piece of 1980's brazing and bog sculpture work.

I calibrated a Hitachi rattle gun that was used to tighten wheel nuts on a v8 touring car at the end of the season found it averaged 17nm. Scary shit. One of shitter maybe? Not sure. Thank god they hit it with a torque wrench after nucknucking.

Mainly its because ive had this exact setup on my commodore and it gives good results and ground clearance. 3 inch is bigger of course so everything is bigger and harder to thread around things. Ive driven an Hq with twin three inch right thru and it caught in everything which quickly wrecked the headers.

Could that be interpreted as they may be fitted but have to be capped and fitted with fittings that require a tool to remove? Eg nuts and spring washers to pass Cert and warrant of fitness.

You say from Auckland? I know a weirdo out there who restores them with used holden parts. Any chance it was out Albany ways?

You haven't lived till you have done 3rd overdrive one wheel peels. You shall need to be wearing a triumph motorcycle logo belt buckle and faded texas tuxedo to pull it off successfully.

The good thing with triumphs is everything craps out within the first few months of ownership. After that they are usually as reliable as a wood burning stove.... change the oil condenser and points and plugs and you will have a happy machine just dont do burnouts, they can do epic burnouts but your diff will reward you with throwing its spider gears at the worst possible time.

A 2 chamber Flowmaster will be plenty loud and sound fantastic you wont be dissapointed a 3 chamber will still sound fierce but be a bit quieter however 3 chamber flowies are a huge muffler you might struggle for space. Go twin 2.5 inch into the muffler then single three inch over the diff.

I do its clocked up an easy 20,000ks no issues.

Fuck i love how this thing is either idling or screaming and flinging shit everywhere.

Look sweet on D windows and nobbly tyres too.

Straighten the camber out tyres that fit the rims that's a slick car but as it is it looks broken.

I call it the bong principle

If your going to run an airbox your breathers would go into that. But you have individual filters right? If so tee them buggers together and vent them at the ground or if your keen tap the inlet manifold and fit a pcv valve. Having your crankcase under vacuum does help keep the oil in a British engine.

Why not run a single big SU carb? A 2 inch off a jag or something similar they can also handle blow thru duties if you decide later on you wanted an intercooler in there. I ran a supercharger off a lancia volumex on a triumph 2 litre 6 cylinder with mechanical injection made some gorgeous sounds when it ran right which was about 70% of its short life as a skid hack.

If you can get a detachable boss kit easy enough why not machine up an adapter and bolt on a triumph 2.5 steering wheel good condition ones are easy to find as everyone swaps them for smaller wheels. I say bolt on as they run 6 bolts 2 per spoke.

Ive got to get back into painting i did a vehicle refinishing course 20 years ago when dulon was all the rage..... is anyone playing around with water based automotive paint yet? I like the idea of it Whats it like.

See if you have voltage at the plugs to bulbs. Whip bulbs out and see if they go power up off your battery ive had both bulbs blow on me driving off the ferry in picton at 11pm it can happen.

Has taken a bit longer than that to get a decent progressive pedal again first few stops were sketchy as heaps of smoke and pedal travel. Have fed it a few litres of fluid nothing flash yet wanted to clear out 15 years of old stuff. Pedal is great now pulls up real damn quick with no fuss for such a heavy car im calling slotted BREMBOS a decent improvement over stock. It was running police spec pads before too That were Pwr brand i think now im running Mintye semi metallic, good pads not much dust so far, Hmm track day will show how good though 1/4 mile first.