shrike

Quick one Got a factory lancer sedan muffler mounted and changed the front pipe, redid the cat and all the exhaust/mounts. Just need to cut the rear flange off and rotate it down. Add a downturn and an angle to the rear muffler output and the it should be done Not super happy with the flange on the downpipe clearance to the drive shaft but if it's an issue I'll grind it down. With a quieter exhaust I'll be more willing to reset the timing again. Plus have another go at sorting the bliss/idle etc

9k is probably manageable (just?) Is it still making power and not peaking at 8500? ( next up dyno chart showing it off a cliff at 8600 ) What do you think the weak link will be next? Rod bolts? Oil system keeping up and bearings letting go? Oil pump failure Clutch? 10k I'm not so sure If serious lol Liked your porting comment assuming it does widen the curve and increase midrange sounds good. Part of me thinks yes the cfm required will increase at lower revs due to less intake restrictions but the exhaust will still limit it. Not sure how much you'll pick up or how much wider to start.

Hoping your going to fully balance the bottom end including the new stronger clutch to allow for the increased revs?

The header/exhaust size discussion I always find interesting and ill admit I am not an expert on it Obviously got to find the balance between torque (via maintaining gas velocity) and flow for the upper RPM (6500+) If it was me I would probably look at getting the header piping as close to the exhaust port size as possible, maybe do a 4 into 1 or a 4 into 2 and then 2.5" to the back. Maybe go 3" if you chuck in some restriction or plan to go turbo later :p @kpr exhaust design he did for the 4age may work well here as well? Do you have to run cats in NZ atm?

Wondering how much more gains you will notice if the exhaust is the limiting factor

Guessing it was oil rated hose? ive seen hose swell before due to not being used with the right liquids etc

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

So B16/18 VTEC head/intake swap on the cards? (with ECU to suit)

Same as the CRV drivetrain?

But did you let the fridge settle before you turned it on? and waiting on rear diff pics to conform AWDness

So, your options are to lose weight or add more power right ?? :p

I would highly recommend not getting it shipped unless its in a freezer truck :s

Yeah they don't like getting too damp, have had a few rhizomes rot away, also you may need alittle more space then that as they tend to spread out but see how you go I have 3 with shoots atm, and 10 that haven't done anything yet. Not a very good gardener myself however and my dog likes to sleep on them :s

Love it, great to see the kids getting involved. Did you let them taste the wort at both post mash and post boil? Great process and looks like a pretty straight forward brew day A cheaper option for yeast nutrient is to just buy bulk bread yeast and throw that in the boil, also i've found that whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil tends to help with removing cold break. Guessing the clarity ferm was to help prevent chill haze? have you tried a batch without? also if your adding fruit then you probably don't need to worry about chill haze The brush is a great idea for the labels I normally just dip mine lol Keen to see it turned out well

Can you run a deadhead system for the fueling? and have the regulator at the back? (obviously it wouldn't be vacuum referenced unless you run a vac line) Guessing one rail has a feed? can you use the output of that rail as a return?

Personally wouldn't bother with a BOV to start with, wastegate wise if you get one with an internal gate it would probably be fine (4-5psi and adjust up as required via a controller), otherwise the chinese wastegates are fine if you pull them apart and then reassemble them (checking for quality issues) depending on budget of course, otherwise most brand name stuff would be fine (turbosmart, Tial, GFB etc) I am not super up on carb turbo setups, but assuming anything low pressure high flow would work well from an electric pump perspective and anything to maintain the pressure your carb needs from a regulation perspective For a 4L and low boost I would say the bigger the wastegate the better, however the Barra turbos do ok with the internal gate at low boost, so maybe something GT35 size, you will probably need a collection of jets etc to dial in the carb Are you going to intercool it?

Got to mark these out and cut then to shape and then bend some small tabs into them Should be easier as its a smaller area Can always buy a press brake later and redo these Metal cost me $88

Picked up some metal this morning, not 100% sure on what it is, it's not magnetic but doesn't feel soft enough to be alluminum, so could be stainless? Top peice for the rad is 3mm, the bumper support part is 1.5mm, setup a dodgy stainless angle clamped to my bench and used a hammer to bend it. Not the most effective way to do it, but it's worked (should have gotten the place I brought it from use the press brake) but I wasn't 100% on angles and measurements when I picked it up Not quite flat in the bumper but should have enough surface to either use sikaflex on it or get some bolts in

And the other side They will fold over at the top and the bottom Should help seal the rad and inter-cooler so that air is more directed but see how we go Also need to look at getting a smaller battery and also options to put a helicoil in the back passenger side bonnet hinge holes (may see a panel beater about getting that done)

Shrouding for the rad

Close ups

So Alloy place came back at $100 for the 3 peices, have added a 4th so just confirming new pricing and pickup/payment details With the cardboard mock-ups mock-ups the cooling panel I brought Cardboard is 5-6mm so will fit better should be hidden when I get the mesh installed Going to add the 4th peice and either bolt or sika flex it to the bumper as another mounting point behind the number plate area

So no one has come back to me about laser or water-jet cutting me the pieces I wanted, guessing I am just too small a job. So have reached out to a place that does Aluminum sheet if they can cut me the pieces to the total overall size I want and ill break out the grinder/dremel/jigsaw/drill etc to remove the excess material 75mmx680mmx3mm 150mmx435mmx3mm 150mmx455mmx3mm Will do the old score with a knife on each side and then bend the ends up trick to get the tabs I want as well once I cut it down to shape 3mm thick should do the job I think and will save some weight on Stainless/Mild steel Top part I can probably get away with using a 25mm hole-saw for the rad mount hole and a 50mm one to allow for the radiator cap instead of cutting out a square, end angle will be easy with my cut off saw. Attaching the factory radiator top mounts/brackets may need some thinking or I may have to take it to someone to weld some posts onto

And done up in solid works, added some extensions/tabs that I can bend up and down on the rad shrouding so that I can bolt it to the lower rad support using holes already there will have to weld on a couple of 10mm locating pins to use the factory radiator brackets but should work ok. Thinking 3mm should do the job for the sides but unsure on what to use for the top as yet, may go a little thicker. Wishing I had a 3d printer right now as I would do some test prints first, still need to find a place that will cut it out for me as well

So did some CAD work today (cardboard aided design) mocked up a new rad mount option and some shrouding for the half rad Need to work out what cad software to use so I can draw it up before I can get it cut out of 3mm steel? May have a play at adding some other ways of mounting the bumper better as well but see how I go Edit: added some pics of my cardboard mock-ups Will make more sense on the car