shrike

Would have to be a wet shot into the throttle body's right? 50 shot to start and then move up? Any thoughts on tweaking the suspension some more? Also massive congratulations impressive result, thats with full street trim as well yeah? can always lose some more weight

Interesting thread on 4-1 vs 4-2-1 obviously on a yaris rather then an echo but I suspect youll have similar space constants. Also depends if your going to run a cat as well https://yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6941 https://www.andysautosport.com/products/dc_sports__SHC4401.html Great results on the dyno run

Typically single scroll you just run one and as close to the turbo as possible, twin scroll you generally want to run one per scroll. (with twin scroll you can get away with one per pipe if youve merged pipes before hand) Assuming your going to do a 3-1 for each bank and then merge two pipes into the vband flange? (if so youll need to do the gate so it has gas from both pipes able to flow into it. There is a balance between flow and velocity ideally you want more gas velocity to help spool the turbo and then good flow out of the turbo, but you don't want it too restrictive as that can cause back pressure etc Alternatively I am still a fan of putting the gate on the turbine housing but it can be a pain for packaging (and welding cast isn't fun) Main thing with any wastegate is you want the exhaust to be able to easily flow through it when its open and divert away from the turbo, can have the biggest gate in the world but if doesn't have a good flow of gas going to it then its not that effective. The chinese wastegates can be ok if you dissemble them and do QC/ reassemble them correctly, know a few people who have replaced diaphragms etc with genuine options as well. Obviously if your happy to spend the coin genuine is the way to go Cool so 1bar spring in the gate it is then :p Hope that makes sense, and I am no expert but just things ive picked up over time

Single or dual scroll? Id also say a 60mm of single but would probably get away with dual 38mm if running dual You can also weld the flange direct to the exhaust housing if you need too Also typical rule of thumb is you can run double the spring pressure via a controller. Ie 5psi spring can run 10psi etc Tipping you'll need about 1bar minimum to hit 400hp (could be wrong)

Actually, what's your rough EGT and what's the highest temp 3D printer filament you can do :p

3D printed an exhaust?

So rather then finish the exhaust I decided I needed more engines. Went to pick a part and grabbed this 4G64 out of a mitsubishi nimbus was a 50/50 on if it was a 6 or 7 bolt, was hoping it was a 6 but based on the mounts etc was sure it would be a 7 And 7 bolt confirmed once the Torque converter is removed, which matches all my other motors that are 7 bolt. Will compare this block to my 4G69 Block and see if I can use the 4G69, can use the crank rods etc either way. Trying to sort a time to pick up a Hyundai G4CR (4G61) DOHC motor from FB marketplace for $500, its a 6 bolt has no balance shafts from factory and a 75mm crank. I just want the head off it as a spare but was considering silly things if the 4G64 was a 6 bolt (like a long rod, large piston but small stroke build) for lots of revs and boost. Still thinking ill keep under 450nm, and I should really finish the exhaust so I can get it done etc Also considering rewiring the engine bay, dash loom and build a new "factory" ecu harness (will add an extra connector (later model 4G63) and allow it to run things like DBW etc) for when I got to a different ecu

If you are after a small displacement bump the cranks and rods from the 4g69 motors will fit, rods are a little small from the 4g69 but are fine for modest power goals and are from memory lighter then the factory evo/turbo rods However should be pretty easy to get at most wreckers as they are in lancers and outbacks

Quick one Got a factory lancer sedan muffler mounted and changed the front pipe, redid the cat and all the exhaust/mounts. Just need to cut the rear flange off and rotate it down. Add a downturn and an angle to the rear muffler output and the it should be done Not super happy with the flange on the downpipe clearance to the drive shaft but if it's an issue I'll grind it down. With a quieter exhaust I'll be more willing to reset the timing again. Plus have another go at sorting the bliss/idle etc

9k is probably manageable (just?) Is it still making power and not peaking at 8500? ( next up dyno chart showing it off a cliff at 8600 ) What do you think the weak link will be next? Rod bolts? Oil system keeping up and bearings letting go? Oil pump failure Clutch? 10k I'm not so sure If serious lol Liked your porting comment assuming it does widen the curve and increase midrange sounds good. Part of me thinks yes the cfm required will increase at lower revs due to less intake restrictions but the exhaust will still limit it. Not sure how much you'll pick up or how much wider to start.

Hoping your going to fully balance the bottom end including the new stronger clutch to allow for the increased revs?

The header/exhaust size discussion I always find interesting and ill admit I am not an expert on it Obviously got to find the balance between torque (via maintaining gas velocity) and flow for the upper RPM (6500+) If it was me I would probably look at getting the header piping as close to the exhaust port size as possible, maybe do a 4 into 1 or a 4 into 2 and then 2.5" to the back. Maybe go 3" if you chuck in some restriction or plan to go turbo later :p @kpr exhaust design he did for the 4age may work well here as well? Do you have to run cats in NZ atm?

Wondering how much more gains you will notice if the exhaust is the limiting factor

Guessing it was oil rated hose? ive seen hose swell before due to not being used with the right liquids etc

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

So B16/18 VTEC head/intake swap on the cards? (with ECU to suit)

Same as the CRV drivetrain?

But did you let the fridge settle before you turned it on? and waiting on rear diff pics to conform AWDness

So, your options are to lose weight or add more power right ?? :p

I would highly recommend not getting it shipped unless its in a freezer truck :s

Yeah they don't like getting too damp, have had a few rhizomes rot away, also you may need alittle more space then that as they tend to spread out but see how you go I have 3 with shoots atm, and 10 that haven't done anything yet. Not a very good gardener myself however and my dog likes to sleep on them :s

Love it, great to see the kids getting involved. Did you let them taste the wort at both post mash and post boil? Great process and looks like a pretty straight forward brew day A cheaper option for yeast nutrient is to just buy bulk bread yeast and throw that in the boil, also i've found that whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil tends to help with removing cold break. Guessing the clarity ferm was to help prevent chill haze? have you tried a batch without? also if your adding fruit then you probably don't need to worry about chill haze The brush is a great idea for the labels I normally just dip mine lol Keen to see it turned out well

Can you run a deadhead system for the fueling? and have the regulator at the back? (obviously it wouldn't be vacuum referenced unless you run a vac line) Guessing one rail has a feed? can you use the output of that rail as a return?

Personally wouldn't bother with a BOV to start with, wastegate wise if you get one with an internal gate it would probably be fine (4-5psi and adjust up as required via a controller), otherwise the chinese wastegates are fine if you pull them apart and then reassemble them (checking for quality issues) depending on budget of course, otherwise most brand name stuff would be fine (turbosmart, Tial, GFB etc) I am not super up on carb turbo setups, but assuming anything low pressure high flow would work well from an electric pump perspective and anything to maintain the pressure your carb needs from a regulation perspective For a 4L and low boost I would say the bigger the wastegate the better, however the Barra turbos do ok with the internal gate at low boost, so maybe something GT35 size, you will probably need a collection of jets etc to dial in the carb Are you going to intercool it?

Got to mark these out and cut then to shape and then bend some small tabs into them Should be easier as its a smaller area Can always buy a press brake later and redo these Metal cost me $88