shrike

Hows the flywheel looking? Lots of hotspots?

Sorry if I missed it are you swapping box and motor from the crv complete or just taking the box?

Not sure if anyone would notice a electric column tbh it's all pretty hidden :p but yeah fair point, did you get a new wof so its 6/12months future you problem?

Or an opportunity to get an electric power steering column to modify and fit? (Pack the factory steering rack with grease). https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Right thread Sounds like a good mission, going to do another trip for a gearbox and axles etc? $250 is a good price, I probably would have just done basic maintance (waterpump etc) for peice of mind and sent it. (Dealt with a headgasket if it happened) but at least you'll know the condition and hopefully won't need to do much to it. Surprised pick apart only has one lift, all the ones here have multiple. I've been running Diesal oil in my fake evo 4G63T and it's slowly cleaning out all the varnish/oil sludge crap etc not that I've run it much mind. Assuming your not going to strip/clean/hot tank everything

Lotta kms csn they be wound back?

Well that sucks, any options to go to a 2l bottom end? I remember my dad/step mum had an awd mazda wagon with a 2l goldtop in it. (Think fhey also did a ford version as well) whst are the piston specs any alternate option's.

Can you not use one of the other bottom ends? or mix and match pistons from the other motors?

Slightly better

Making up some brackets for the headlights which I'll weld a support to so I can have some additional mounting points for the front bumper. Using some steel I have laying around and they are way overkill. Redid the half rad front mounting, may have gone too thick with 3mm Alloy but it works ok, need to do some clearancing so the aftermarket radiator panel fits. Also may need to add an additional support for it somewhere on the passenger side. Haven't bent and installed the alloy radiator ducting up yet either. The big one I wanted to do didn't work out how I wanted so need to remake it.

@Roman More lightness inspiration, surprised no dimple dies used however

Flipping the Cas 180 made it worse so put it back the way I had it. I double checked it with a timing light. Sorted the exhaust and also give it an alignment tweak, till I can go get it one Need to get more fuel and a real alignment done, tempted to take it round the block but my partners out and I'd need to get a non roadworthy permit. Still alittle rowdy but not bad overall

Not super happy with it, also clearance of the cat flange to the driveshaft is pretty tight so may cut that off rotare/grind it down and redo it see how I feel tomorrow

Slowly doing some dodgy welding as 0 fucks given as long as it seals

Rebuild time then are they rebuild able, echo are spring on a perch and not on the actual shock yeah? New shock inserts a go?

@Romanany option to cool the capacitor? congrats on some good times, keen to see how much you pickup from the exhaust :p Assuming this was with the smaller/lighter rims etc?

What did you have to do to get the vvti pulley to work on the 4age? did it just bolt upto the cam? assuming you had to add an actuator etc to turn it on and off? Very cool, any benefit in setting up exhaust side control Beams blacktop (Altezza) have intake and exhaust right? did the 2jz setup make more sense/fit better then the beams setup?

Did some terrible welding onto the factory lancer muffler, (dodgy angles/pipe sizes etc) just one more pipe/pie cut to weld in. Then I'll retune it again timing wise Hopefully volume drops and I'll just need to finish the last of the rust work and maybe factory style rims with the stock suspension (and alignment) before I'll attempt a rwc check Few other things I'll slowly do once its regoed

Could also go for a pedal box and just get rid of the brake booster (more weight saving?) not sure on legality of running a pedal box on a road car however. Who needs assisted brakes right, can still plumb it into the abs system as well from memory

Pickapart run for both motor 1.3/loom/ecu and the manual box out of the 1.0 one

Anyway to add another anchor point? Like have a tab that connects to the bolts that hold the two half's together? Alternatively long term you could look to get mounting plates/tabs etc welded on right?

Could also get the 2.4 or 2L Hyundai engine and turbo it G4JP and G4JS If you get a box that fits the 4g69 or 4g64 it should fit the 4g63

Did these end up having dual injection bosses? Probably not useful for your setup however? Dual injector setup probably wouldn't be of any benefit as most bigger injectors have good low end control Part of me wonders if small injectors for lower end would give better control/results and then a larger set as you need more fuel but tipping you don't need huge injectors anyway Keen to see cruise control and other cool DBW stuff setup (cold start/idle/launch control etc) Wonder how they would go on a 4/7/9A

They only work with Triangle pistons

If the box will fit a 4G93 it will fit a 4g63, 4g64, 4g69 4G69 is a sohc with Mivec (MCM did one) you can get them out of lancers and outlanders etc. If you can find a manual awd outlander the gearbox could be a good option (same with Diff) 4G69 is same height as 4G63, you will need to use the right mounts to make it all work however The outlander running gear could possibly fit (so could go to 5x114.3 that way as well) The later model RVR (with the evo 4 onward engine) will also be an option for parts Obviously looms to match engines etc Yes diff ratios will all need to match up 4G64 and 4G69 will take an Evo Dohc head