shrike

So TPS is now wired the correct way and the boost issue is gone, need to hook the factory boost control back up so its doing more then wastegate pressure Idle is better after a few tweaks still not how I want it yet but waiting on a new IACV to arrive to do some more fault finding, cold start wasn't amazing today :s (probably as the Bliss was all the way in) May have someone interested in buying it so may be sold this weekend, see how we go, didn't really want to sell it but just don't have the time with a 10month old and have lost a lot of motivation due to various issues Also of course its running the best it ever has and I am getting rid of it lol Pricing I am looking at selling for is enough for me to consider it, and I still have the AE111 back in NZ so can put some Dollars towards that again next year. I did have a quick look around at other projects/fun cars but prices are nuts here and nothing that I am really interested in, tbh don't really need another car :s and maybe I have another look at getting a larger bike again. Will miss having the option to tinker on something but have a few bits to do around the house Partners back at work in Jan as well

I thought you had a welder

Think that's a good idea, seems there is heaps of new aftermarket ICAVs around for around the $30aud so have ordered one and will see how it goes

Hey guys need some guidance, currently using the factory RVR ecu, may go to my teensy 3.5 8x8 shortly if I can get the map, wideband and IAT sensor in (also need to solder on bluetooth and the chip to run the iacv) or if I work out how to get tunerstudio to work with the maf thats currently in the car Not sure if you read my build thread but worked out that the RVR TPS runs the opposite way (counterclockwise instead of clockwise?) to the Evo/gsr one so it was reading to the ecu as 5v closed and 0v open (not exact figures) worked out the RVR wiring to the tps is opposite to allow for this so have swapped the evo wiring around as the RVR ecu reads the TPS the same way as other Mitsubishi as lower is closed and higher is open etc Need to buy a new connector to finish it off but its now reading 0.45v closed, think it got upto 4.xxx when full open need to double check. I need to check what value it should read closed. Started up no issues, Note revs on the dash don't match the revs on my digital timing light (note its wasted spark so reads double but even when I divide its still not lining up) got up-to operating temp, grounded out the OBD1 port using my evoscan cable (can't connect the ecu to the laptop) Bliss screw is fully wound in so can't get the idle any lower Throttle stop screw is now fully wound out and the throttle cable is slack Meant to idle at 750rpm+/-100rpm but I feel like its closer to 1k, and its more like 1000-1250 on the timing light Sounds really lumpy (don't think it has aftermarket cams but haven't checked) pretty sure I have a couple of exhaust leaks I need to track down and fix as that may be causing the sound Don't think i have an air leak as the vac/boost gauge doesn't move much but it could also be the iacv adjusting to compensate right? Have previously done a pressure test and couldn't find anything but perhaps I need to do it again Can't read the iacv settings due to the ecu not talking to the laptop with the current setup, tempted to unplug the iacv and see if that makes a difference. Really trying to avoid buying the other evoscan tool and swapping the dash loom over to the OBD1/2 hybrid one (which I suspect the RVR ecu needs to be read Timing is at 10degrees when I lock the timing out, and is about 20 when its unlocked, 20degress unlocked would put it at the 1250rpm part of the ignition map or 1000rpm if its seeing more air Only other thing I can think of is it has an aftermarket fuel pump however I have gone back to factory wiring as it melted the relay I had added to give it the full voltage. (think it was a cheap relay) I am not 100% sure if the RVR ecu I am using is for 450cc or 510cc injectors. I haven't checked fuel pressure so perhaps the FPR is providing more pressure to the injectors then it should? I have 450cc injectors currently installed, would smaller injectors be causing it to idle higher? I wouldn't have thought so, don't have a wide band on it currently but that's another thing I may put on to check, don't have smoke out the exhaust so its not running stupid rich Also could be the temp sensor is reading incorrectly? I am abit rusty on all of this hence asking for peoples thoughts Current next step thoughts are Check TPS readings are now in range (volt meter) Check Idle switch is reading correctly Check temp sensor Check for air/vac/boost leaks Check fuel pump voltage Check fuel pressure Add wideband to check afr matches factory map Buy new IACV? Buy 510cc injectors? Thanks in advance for help Edit, Ok TPS Should read between 0.45-0.55v closed so thats perfect I also adjusted the throttle cable so it opens the whole way. IACV The value for this motor varies from 0-120 steps and should live at 30 when the vehicle is warm and idling with no load (fans, etc). This value can only be achieved by altering the BISS on the throttle body. Achieving the value of 30 gives the stepper motor in the IACV the required range to control the idle. The learn idle adjust should then hover around 140 if all the conditions are correct. However this feature of the ECU only achieves to obtain the idle value programmed into the ecu and nothing more – it does this by altering the position of the ISC Does anyone know of some EV1 connector compatible top feed 510cc injectors that are newer then the old EVO 1-4, ideally looking for something with better spray pattern etc? Edit 2: Checked and confirmed RVR IACV wiring is the same as the evo 1-3

So ignore my previous comment, timing was reading high as of course it does when you need to divide it in two as its wasted spare Evoscan and cable don't work as the RVR ecu's I have may be the hybrid OBD1/OBD2 which means I would need to swap to the other dash loom to test and use a different reader. No guarantee that would work as the Evo engine loom is OBD1 so not 100% if the OBD1 and OBD2 engine looms for the GSR are the same or not Set base timing at 12 degrees (24 on the timing light) factory is 8-10 and everyone says 15 is fine, I only run 98oct as well along with wastegate boost pressure as the boost control isn't hooked up Also managed to melt the relay to the fuel pump so have gone back to stock wiring for that currently (may have also been part of my intermittent boost issue Need to take it for a drive but won't be tonight Also think I have an exhaust leak in the engine bay Added an extra couple of ground cables and thats removed the cranking issue I was getting May also have worked out my RVR ecu's are for 510cc injectors instead of the 450cc ones in there so may need to get a set of the right injectors to get it running better Plugged my speedunio (Teensy version) in and had to re calibrate the TPS in Tunerstudio as it was reading backwards seems the RVR TPS is reverse and the lower reading is full open, checked a few things but didn't try start it as I haven't wired in a map sensor or done some other ground work for it to just plugin and go Worked out part of my idle issue may be that the Evo 1-3 loom has the wiring opposite on the TPS to the RVR TPS so the fact its reading backwards is giving my ecu the wrong signal. RVR tps are on the opposite side of the throttle body by the firewall and read in reverse Right now with the engine off the TPS signal is 5v with the throttle closed and 0V at WOT, also means the idle switch isn't being read until WOT by the ecu which explains my fuel cut as when I'm at wot the ecu sees the throttle being closed and it going into idle Confirmed wiring is backward as per pic Plug and wiring on left is from an RVR the right is the evo

Silly question but the shocks are still in good nick yeah? are they inserts or a sealed unit? if inserts you can put spacers on the bottom to give more height so that it bottoms out higher if that makes sense (similar to running MR2 shock inserts in I think it was KE70 struts etc) Wondering if you need shorter travel shocks? Haven't played with suspension in awhile so may not be making sense, please correct if I am mistaken

I have used these guys a few times, had the lager ones in my R32 which I got via Moonlight racing from memory https://autogauge.com.tw/ I buy them direct these days Contact details below and pay via paypal, quality seems fine and they have plenty of options taiwanno1@autogauge.com.tw +886 933 093 779 They also have whatsapp if you want to go that way What I brought last time (52mm) Boost, Oil temp, Oil pressure And water temp ITEM NO. PRICE (FOB TAIWAN) AGBOCL-PK-R (We do have the one in PSI) USD 42.60 AGOPCL-PK-R (Also in PSI?) USD 53.80 AGWTCL-PK-R USD 33.20 AGOTCL-PK-R USD 33.20 Shipping cost by FedEx Priority USD 56.25 Total amount (5% PayPal fee included) USD 230.00

Plenum/air box etc looks good hoping the Men don't get sucked into the intake Apologies if you have already covered it but what was your plan for ignition? are you going to be using COP or?

So yeah i am an idiot and didn't set the cas timing correctly with the digital timing light as forgot to decide the reading in half I have more experience with the dumb strobe based timing Reset the idle so thats good at least, should have hooked it up to my laptop and run evo scan but ran out of time, need to take it for a drive to see if its solved the issue of boost cut Have a tiny bit of clutch drag at redline so need to adjust that as well to see if that helps with my 2nd gear syncro issue (also may try a different fluid) but now that its idling lower and able to drop to lower revs when I put the clutch in I may have less gearbox issues Edit, clutch pedal was missing a bolt (was wondering why it wasn't sitting high enough based on the workshop manual specs) still need to adjust it to spec but should be another thing I can cross out. I should rebuild the gearbox anyway so thinking I may pull the motor and box when I get the time (maybe over xmas) and redo/check the cambelt timing while its all out etc to make sure everythings lined up properly (may even strip the motor down and give it a full service/cleanup) not going to pull the head or anything as compression is good however and ill build another bottom end at some point Spoken with Jacks transmissions in the states and they can do 1st/2nd gear mods to suit the dual syncros so may go down that route along with the other gearbox upgrades I mentioned in my last post, will also get their full rebuild kit so it'll be all smick. Will have to get the housing sand/vapour/bead blasted and then paint it (thinking maybe some form of grey)

A guy on one of the FB evo groups used cobalt SS brembos on his early evo. May also be an option and I think rockauto sell them as well.

Do the standard rads have plastic tops etc? if your replacing I would probably be looking at something full alloy to remove the issue of cracking plastic later, even if its standard size (may even be cheaper then a genuine rad as well) Keen to see what ducting you come up with

Keen to see this vs @Romanand the echo Also @kpr not sure if you have considered it and I hope the T50 keeps going well but have you thought about going to a J160 with one of SQ Engineering's kits not sure if they are heavier then the T50 or better with higher revs but might be an option with more available spares long term

Ordered an Evoscan cable with the software, didn't realize they had an NZ option so paid for it in USD and ordered from the US :s so could have saved some dollars But will mean I can read the RVR ecu (similar to the early evo ecu) via the Mitsubishi OBD1 port and check the ISAV/Bliss setup to tune the idle/throttle stop etc correctly plus do some data logging to work out why I have a boost cut at 4psi Drives really well off boost apart from a couple of of noises I need to investigate (could be intercooler piping banging) and it still needs a wheel alignment Gave the MAF/AFM a clean with some contact cleaner, have a spare CAS to swap if need be and also been thinking about getting some COPs so that I can do sequential ignition when I go standalone ecu. (means I can rule out the current ignition system as the issue also) Still need to order bits to upgrade 2nd gear to a dual syncro setup and do syncros/bearings while I have the box apart, time/motivation/budget are not high atm as 2nd gear has the typical syncro issue, possible going to a different gearbox oil may help but again haven't had time to try Would probably send the gears/diff off for the below (Neat Gearboxes) "Crack test, shot peening and ISF micro-polishing the gears, this process makes the gears around 30% stronger than stock by reducing the likelihood of crack formation." "4 spider conversion on the centre diff, this makes the centre differential much stronger by converting the centre to accommodate 4 spider gears instead of the OEM 2-spider design. These are prone to failure in aggressive cornering, launching and so on, so we consider it a “must do” for performance driving." LSD I can add later on if needed as its a non LSD box Need to take some pics but added an alloy air duct/bumper mounting thing that I made up and riveted onto the fibreglass bumper, ill get some fibreglass at some stage and mould it in better but having the front bumper firmly attached is a good thing

Also expressing condolences its always hard losing a family member thoughts to all your family. Loving the updates and also agree the history side is amazing.

How did the brakes go? was good to see you passing cars that you would expect to be quicker :p not sure if driver skill plays a part in it though! What tires did you run for the day?

Getting the Pistons ceramic/Teflon coated? are you going to get the bottom end balanced?

Sorry, remind me what comp ratio the latest motor is at?

Not a huge fan of adding weight to cars but do you have option to add rear strut braces/boot braces maybe some additional strut tower reinforcement plates (I know the ke/ae70 chassis can have strut tower cracking issues Assuming you already have a full sized spare in the boot? Want to add any stereo equipment? Big subs tend to be heavy :p

I think the joint diagnosis is that that piston may have had existing issues, its all subjective however if you hadn't had the head off to confirm the pistons looked good then I would lean that way. Cooling blockage would have been more if you knew the engine was good/head had been off and pistons looked good previously etc, as if that cylinder wasn't cooling as well it could lead to issues (would expect the knock sensor to pick up any detonation however) I wouldn't bother with EGT sensors for the new setup as I think you have diagnosed the issue now and I doubt it will repeat with new pistons etc Sucks but at least with the new build you'll know what will be in it, any plans to balance the rotating assembly?

I'd get the forged pistons ceramic coated to help prevent hotspots Looks like it's gradually happened right, so could have been an existing issue and already had a small deformation causing a hotspot that's slowly gotten worse. Could look at adding egt sensors per cylinder as I'm tipping your overall AFR is fine? You've ruled out injection and ignition, timing was correct. How's the cooling around that cylinder looking, nothing blocked? Do you know the history of the motor, had you had the head of previously?

According to Wikipedia the 1NZ-FXE and 1NZ-FXP also have forged Rods Along with the 13:1 compression but guessing they are the older motors your speaking of

Just get some straight and do pie cuts :p for the bends etc

Fair enough was just thinking it might be an option if you need to save the head long term.

Can you weld up the hole?

@chris rare we taking bets on KWATW? Factory is meant to be what 112kw at the fly? So maybe 90-100kw atw stock? Did you have a factory dyno number? I'm guessing with the exhaust, better head, compression bump and a good tune (what fuel are you going to run?) Assuming you can run optimum timing for power (without knock) You might gain what 10-20kw atw?