Ja1lb8

Dont quote me on this but theres a section about this in the hobby car manual saying dont chromeplate ht suspesion bolts and the like because of this reason. Think 70s showcars t buckets . Have herd of old boys cracking the shits when failing cert on cars thatve been hotrodded for years with chrome bolts everywhere

Pulled the radiator and water pump off. Appears to be shot. The noise i was hearing was the impellor touching the housing.Couldnt manage to press it apart using my vise so well have to shoot to town and use a mates press assuming i can get a rebuild kit or better yet just get another pump from somewhere

So bolted the head back on. Found an old dizzy cap and old copper leads so chucked them on. Tryed firing it up. No go . Couple of hours trying later discovered the Bolt thing that goes through the side of the dizzy was shorting strait to earth causing my spark issues. Sorted that. Radiator bolted on . Turns out its better at keeping water out then in so well have to try solder that up somehow. Anyway played with the timing a but and got it running. A but shit but running none the less. Terrible sound from front of the motor. Suspecting the water pump

cleaned all the valves up. Replaced 3 inlet valves that were too rusty. Spent way more hours then i should have tryna lap them in with grinding paste. Some of the seats were too pitted so made up this fly cutter looking thing by welding a piece of tool sleel onto the head of the valve and grinding it up to the correct angle. Not as successful as id wished bit did the job. Needs at least 2 cutting faces idealy to stop it following the contour in the seat face. Lapped it in and should do the trick. Has had 3 new stainless exhaust valves at some stage and hardened exhaust seats.Hoping all the water in the inlet was from sitting outside or a leak in the roof and not some shoddy machine job back in the day thats gone thru one of the water jackets

Daily it. Been using it most days. Goes not too bad. Will probably end up with a mate of mine who was pining over it.(Fletch on here)He also has another one with a vh45 in it

did a mission on the gold datsun at top of the thread coming on a year ago now. Got it legal and tidied up to use for one of my wedding cars so was stoked about that.Got turbo off fletchs skyline (thanks) and modified manifold and exhaust to fit. New oil and water lines to suite. Fitted carpet as I'd never gotten round to doing it. Test drive lasted about 15kms before the gearbox let go. Third gear stripped. In went new box and all is well. Has just been sitting in the shed since our honeymoon. Really need to get it out and legal again

Comes with such modern day features as electric aerial. 8 track after rewiring it works well and a selection of tapes. Wouldnt mind some more if anybodies got any? random smith's gauges that tell me outside temp and lights up and tells me put my seat belt on not to be forgotten the monsoon guard. Looks to have been folded up out of a piece of perspex.oh and the tacho. Mint dash is wrecked where it's screwed on but still a pretty cool tacho

Thought I'd just tack this on here. Not really a project as such but still ended up working on it. Mate spotted it at kuemu. Turns out so did my dad. I ended up buying it.One lady owner going into a home.mint as. Flew up to Auckland and drove back to south Taranaki that day with the am cranking. clutch started giving up about 200kms from home. Was slipping in top gear by time I pulled into my drive so happy to make it. had a ld28 hanging around I'd brought for the crank so thought I'd try the clutch out of that on the off chance. Jackpot bolted strait on. Fail didn't work. Gearbox off again .sure enough completely different offsets to the origanil. 4 more goes later and 3 different thrust bearings got it right using one out of an rb30 . Should a just measured it in the first place and saved a whole lot of hassle

So finally got back to this. Was looking thru the tard and came across this origanil chassis for way too cheap to say no so it came home. Rebuilt suspension an motor .no gearbox . Don't really know what to do with it but my body bolts strait on so figured I'd get it going while building up my hot rod chassis had no dizzy, water pump. , and other random bits missing so found all the missing parts that my dad had conveniently stored away many years earlier. Tryed turning it over. Took about 4 hours to unseize . Result bent push rod seized valve

Didnt even realize you could get diy kits. Got a bad chip in my screen done at Novus. Bout $50 from memory. The bloke said because it was quite bad it wouldn't be perfect. I'd say it's about a 95% job so I was happy with it. Still going strong a couple years on

My auto sr18 bluebird is farken gutless. Should think about servicing the trans me thinks. Gets about 9L/100kms usually 550-600kms a tank. At the sametime inlaws sr20 primera manual goes hard and better fuel economy

The one i saw was cut near the yoke so maybe just near the ends were that thick, or maybe it was off something completly different. No idea to be honest. Was pretty trick tho. Looked like the ends were just glued/resined in. Must have been some good shit

Have made few drive shafts up and had few different ones made. 1 and 2 piece for different reasons. Talking to the pro/old guy that made shit loads of them for ever. He showed me the graphs for resonent frequency, when the driveshaft gets it wobble on. Took into account length, diameter of tube and wall thickness. As well as it been balanced correctly and the ujoints needing to be aligned properly. Showed me a carbonfibre dshaft out of a 350z I think? Definatly wasnt carbon for the weight saving. Was heavy as if not heavier then a steel one.wall thickness was about 12mm, used because its much stiffer and the resonant frequeny was much higher. So what I decovered is theres a whole lot of things to take into account when designing a driveshaft but Ive found most times ive just bodged something together its worked anyway

Had this exact problem. Think they were 720cc and was using a microtec which is shit and couldnt get it to idle. Put 370cc back in and was all good.

Have had several sets of springs modded and made. Snells springs I think did them. Got some retempered so sits more flat. Drilled holes in some also for diff locating dowels which was pretty hard going. The spring guy reconed this fucks ths the surface tension of the spring and increases the risk of it failing but 10 years on still holding strong

Had a great day. Good meeting you guys. So many amazing cars there. Particularly enjoyed walking through the workshops out back and seeing all the yet to be restored cars they had stashed away

Could be keen to bring my old datsun super six down. Be good to meet some if you guys. Have to see what works doing

Exactly what all torque said and yea I would think about .1mm would be the go. The replacement ball joint does have a grippy spline thing rolled into the contact face of it. Wonder if thats meant to sort of cut in as you press it in?

Assembling my new suspension arms and just checked the interferance between the balljoint and the hole it has to go into , .97mm, Seems excessive to me I can just put it in a big press and itll stretch the outer ring thing and go in most probably but im a but scared it could split it also damaging the arm. Anybody know how much interferance is standard on a ball joint , think lower hq holden or similar

Front suspension MK3 Brought a nz hobby car manual that says what you can and cant do in regards to building a car in nz, should hve got one when I started this but im not usually one to do things the easy way, So found the suspension arms I made wearnt up to spec, need to to be beefier and need to tig'd, not mig welded plus i didnt like the rod ends so heres the new ones with bushed rod , hopefully should be a bit nicer ride then the solid ones and not wear out like they tend to. Threading the ends for the rod ends, 3/4únf Made up some press tools to put the ball joints in and tryed using my bench vice but no chance so shot down to the local engineers and he let me use his big press Final welding on bottom A arms, still need to make a mount and hole for the shock mount to and somewhere for a bump stop Waiting on bushes and more rod ends to show up so I finish mount these ,

Have managed to get a bit done on this lately, feels like im going round in circles a but tho cause most of it involved cutting bits off I wasnt happy with and redoing them Anyways... Cut back of chassis off cause it looked shithouse and made up new chassis rails, also means I can get a decent sized fuel tank in there Have mounted rear shocks and got all that working, still need to make up new rear arms but have most the bits I need now

Got a good days work in on my chassis today so heaps of little bits and pieces finished. Probably another solid days work and itl be ready to go to the sand blasters and get some paint on it A while back someone commented that it looked real heavy with all that bracing in it, Since I had some load cells laying around and the readout was charged up (used for wieghing cows) I thought id chuck them under my chassis just out of interest, came in at 140kgs which I didnt think was to badat all. Will get maybe another 10kgs of bits and pieces welded to by the time its finished I almost epect the weight to double by the time i add the suspension, brakes and wheels tho

In hindsight I should of just whacked a couple of singles on there and not had to battle with this plumbing nightmare but Im already balls deep so I best see it through now

Have spent the last couple of weeks working on the exhaust and finishing off bits on the chassis Removed the body shell and set to work on the drivers side exhaust , Had to get it to clear the steering shafts and fit in between the chassis rails, Just waiting on some v band clamps to show up so I can finish weld it, otherwise all looks good Next I moved onto the passengers side , had to modify the manifold so it faced the other way, easier said then done but its in there now, 3rd time lucky and appears to clear everything, Hoping the motor doesnt rock to much and make the exhaust hit the chassis Like the other side im going to have to put heat shields around everything to try and stop things melting, starter engine mount etc