Jorden

2000 is fine for sure, if RJP is open they sell a 3000 thin finishing pad that goes on a DA and preps well for cutting

Cheers Chris appreciate it, will be ringing up as soon as we are free again

removed the factory radio because I can't hear it over the exhaust anyway and installed the three gauges, water temp, oil press, oil temp. Still need to find a place to mount fuel pressure

recommendations for a dyno tuner/carb guy to get this thing to its full potential? i am in CHCH.

Got it all fired up and running, it sounds amazing. XR292r cam Lift 0.621 / 0.627 in, Duration 292 / 298, it has vic jr heads i have played around with, a super vic intake and an 850 pro systems carb. Ive got a moroso 7q pan and a melling hv pump in it. In the second photo you can see a clear line heading into the drivers door, this is connected to the trans and used to set up the line pressure for the AOD trans. I spent a good amount of time running it in, and have only in the last week changed that oil for some fresh stuff. It runs really well, but i need a new valvebody for the trans, as the shift pattern is 1 D OD meaning i cant hold second gear. With a 3.25 rear end it sits at 100km @ 2100RPM in overdrive haha, im thinking of going to a 3.9 ratio. From take off it has a bit of a flat spot, i dont have an AFR gauge so dont want to play around with it too much, if anyone knows a good dyno tuner/carb guy in chch please let me know in the discussion thread! Would be much appreciated. God i would love a sprintcar style air cleaner on it aswell, the single stack is only on there because its all ive got I also installed an oil cooler as temps were getting too high, its quite a small one and has given me an interesting problem. At cold idle it has 40psi, and at hot idle as its able to flow through it better, it has 50 psi i think ill have to get a bigger one anyway as temps climb too quick after a decent pull, ive heard shorter plates but more of are better than a few long plates for flow. of oil. Such a shame, i managed to get her all ready for the wedding to be cancelled, makes me a bit bummed that i rushed a lot of stuff together and now have to re do things, but i can definitely say, without the motivation the wedding gave me, the car would probably still be sitting in primer right now

I had a couple of mates come over to help put the steering box, brake booster and then motor and trans in. Everything went together fairly easily. Before i painted the car i split the factory looms that usually ran across the firewall, extended them and ran them along the crossmemeber and under the guards etc to hide them. youll also notice the extra bumper.... strength in the first photo When i first bought the motor it was dry sumped, i fucked that off because i didnt really need it and went to wet sump. The block doesnt have provisions for a spin on filter, so im running a remote System 1 filter you can see on the passenger side.

i had the car running with that motor, and before the kaikoura hop i went to do an oil change and found a lot of bearing in the oil. It all got pulled out, rebuilt, and then i lost a lot of motivation to put it all back together. January this year, my friend asked if we could get it ready for his wedding in april, i said yea why not. Here are photos of the panel process, i couldnt find the exact factory blue, so decided on a colour with a bit more of a pop to it. I decided to do the engine bay and door jams all at the same time. Came out alright, it was my second time playing with BC/CC and was lucky enough to get to paint it at work. Most of the car was straight anyway, i had to get the rear window removed to attack some rust, the rest happened really quickly.

Negative Whatever is going to get the most out of the engine

Yea I should be able to fit 3.5" under there, the headers sit fairly low so it'll sit above the level of those, and I can tuck it in the tunnel a bit. So 3" at worst, 3.5 is better, and if I could fit 4" would that be the best?

Different I'm pretty sure mate, mainly found in mustangs, broncos etc American stuff, but I could be wrong

Painted the 9inch blue and put it in And then this weekend after the new trans and headers showed up, i decided to chuck it in and test fit everything. I went for an AOD trans so i got overdrive, and i should be able to run a higher diff ratio while keeping cruising speeds down. Its a pretty tough built one i got from a shop up north. The headers are Hurricane, and completely fowl the steering box so ill have to modify them at work. Our car hoist also serves as an engine hoist. After these photos i mounted the rad, oil cooler, oil filter and fuel pump, its gonna be a busy engine bay!

I'm about to build the exhaust for my new v8. It is a 393, at a guestimate 550 hp at the crank. I have to run a single system in the xf as the fuel tank gets in the way on the passengers side. It'll just be running through one flowmaster super 44. I have twin 3" collectors, what size system is going to be best?

Enford be worth a try aswell, got a full set of bushes for my Anglia off them

thoughts on the new combination team Would love to keep the stacks somehow, ill find a tunnel ram for it one day Got to buy headers and a carb for it, Thinking a mechanical secondary 850cfm, what do you guys reckon? Its a 393 that should have around 550hp

this is what she ended up looking like as i drove it round for 6 or so months, Untill all of the oil decided to exit via the dipstick So i searched for ages for a replacement, and found a 393 windsor that a few of you may have seen on trademe. Its a ford motorsport block with 4 bolt mains, edelbrock alloy heads, scat crank rods pistons, super victor intake and is dry sumped. Came with all lines, tank and pump etc. I also bough an LSD 9 Inch off the same guy. Should be good for about 550hp, Have started taking it apart to re paint the block and check over everything, such a cool pulley setup on the front. .