RUNAMUCK Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Couldnt find a discussion thread, and a majestic whip such as deserves one! That belt noise you mentioned, its not the pump bypassing at full lock is it? The aussie mopars make a terrible racket if you try and steer past full lock. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doullama Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Thanks mate, remiss of me not to start a discussion thread. It is a nice if somewhat obscure car. I assume belt (though I could be wrong) as belt squeal noise rather than horrendous pump groan - the belt is both old & is a tad undertensioned to boot. They do use an identical pump to valiant etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Nice, been waiting for this as didnt want to spam mrmk1 thread with your stuff. Was going to say about the ammeter gauge and the cunty bulkhead connector block with the common melting through shorting out and fire hazard issue. Sounds like you've already figured out the bad parts that every mopar owner needs to be aware of LOL. Heads up, these bulkhead blocks are super spendy to replace if you so desire but are available. I just bypassed the ammeter, its useless anyway these days. also, YES do the relay to headlights and put sme semi sealed housings in it, you wont regret it if you are driving it that frequently. Much cheaper to get these from Usa, and if you find the right place they will supply the decent wattage halogens and the wiring kit/relay adapter all part of the kit. So cheap and so good. The p/s pumps as you say are common as, and actually really easy to rebuild or replace. There was only a few different types across many of the years and models so shouldnt be a problem. You've obviously checked the fluid level? may not hurt to replace the fluid too as may help, they do get burnt to fuck and the fluid loses alot of its viscosity, well as much as ATF has lols. if its the belt, it will squel when cold or when pump has resisitance, not just at lock, they are noisy when bypassing so depends when its making noise as to its problem. Fucking cool car. rockauto is ya friend. awesome thing is b bodys share soooo much stuff. lucky. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Dipping headlights from the USA dip the wrong way for NZ, they should fail a WOF check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 The are not classed as left and right, they are just a bare glass bulb mount inside your pressed steel housing , and you set them up on the adjusters to be whereever you want them to point. they dont dip a direction left or right. So no problem at all. Each bulb/housing is individually mounted on its own screw adjusters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 1 hour ago, 440bbm said: The are not classed as left and right, they are just a bare glass bulb mount inside your pressed steel housing , and you set them up on the adjusters to be whereever you want them to point. they dont dip a direction left or right. So no problem at all. Each bulb/housing is individually mounted on its own screw adjusters. Isn't the dipping direction built into the glass lens? I'm not talking about the adjustment of the headlight. I know I've had to replace the entire unit on old cars I've imported from the USA. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Well, jolly good question, you've put a cat amongst the pigeons. Sorry, you may be 100% correct. i just remember looking at the lens being all the same part number, not handed so just whacked them in. Assuming that maybe the ones I bought off ebay were all the same, sorry! shit well maybe they sent me all the same lens and are not right for the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 17 Author Share Posted June 17 My wof guy is a turbo nazi for headlight aim. (Rightly so) i was there once when he failed some drop kick kids shitbox honda for having headlights that Dipped to the right. (Among other things, who then tried to weasle out of paying. Whos mum then phoned up to try and argue the toss, and acuse him of being pedantic) 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 This car is super cool @doullama, keen to come check it out some time! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doullama Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 On 17/06/2024 at 08:16, 440bbm said: Nice, been waiting for this as didnt want to spam mrmk1 thread with your stuff. Was going to say about the ammeter gauge and the cunty bulkhead connector block with the common melting through shorting out and fire hazard issue. Sounds like you've already figured out the bad parts that every mopar owner needs to be aware of LOL. Heads up, these bulkhead blocks are super spendy to replace if you so desire but are available. I just bypassed the ammeter, its useless anyway these days. also, YES do the relay to headlights and put sme semi sealed housings in it, you wont regret it if you are driving it that frequently. Much cheaper to get these from Usa, and if you find the right place they will supply the decent wattage halogens and the wiring kit/relay adapter all part of the kit. So cheap and so good. The p/s pumps as you say are common as, and actually really easy to rebuild or replace. There was only a few different types across many of the years and models so shouldnt be a problem. You've obviously checked the fluid level? may not hurt to replace the fluid too as may help, they do get burnt to fuck and the fluid loses alot of its viscosity, well as much as ATF has lols. if its the belt, it will squel when cold or when pump has resisitance, not just at lock, they are noisy when bypassing so depends when its making noise as to its problem. Fucking cool car. rockauto is ya friend. awesome thing is b bodys share soooo much stuff. lucky. Yeah rockauto rules, I use it all the time even for non-u.s cars if the part isn't LHD specific. I thought i'd leave the ammeter in circuit, pointless for sure but its something to look at. Definitely a bit of peace of mind having the parallel circuit in place. I do intend to open up the bulkhead connectors at some point and clean all the connections, if it ever gave trouble i'd just replace with solid wires straight through. My headlight relay kit just turned up today, I might look into upgrading the bulbs in the future but I don't see myself driving it a lot at night, not least because it is raucously loud and will wake up the neighbours..p/s pump is a federal pump I believe, the level was well below the filler neck so I topped it up with atf, still squealing at lock and only at lock. Apparently atf is no good for the hoses & seals etc but I do wonder if that still applies as I doubt any of the rubber is more than 20 years old. Might wind it over for a while with the return line off and fill it up with lucas p/s fluid (not the stop leak) and see if that makes any difference, i'll swap out the belt too as it does look elderly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Mine makes a high pitch shreik at full lock. Now the box needs a rebuild as its leaking at the bottom. Could try a new seal but I bet I know where that will head LOL. Hadn't heard of ATF eating the hoses/seal before.. What's the exhaust setup on it if tis that loud? is it just real short? at least the neighbours get a part of the experience each time you start it too LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doullama Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 @440bbm I was reading about it on the c-body forum, apparently the 60s rubber doesn't take it well and it should have very basic p/s fluid. It's not offensively loud but noisy enough with twin pipes - a single mystery muffler on each pipe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted October 28 Share Posted October 28 a nice dual plane manifold and 600 cfm quickfuel slayer carb be perfect for it! have u fucked with the ignition yet? cant remember, electronic pickup and blaster2 coil would be a sweet addition 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doullama Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 On 29/10/2024 at 10:00, 440bbm said: a nice dual plane manifold and 600 cfm quickfuel slayer carb be perfect for it! have u fucked with the ignition yet? cant remember, electronic pickup and blaster2 coil would be a sweet addition They're a tough engine to find aftermarket anything for, the only thing that interchanges from the 1967 on LA318 is the distributor. 2 barrel carter (200cfm!) was the povo spec so a factory 4 barrel manifold shouldn't be too hard to track down. There were twin 4 barrel manifolds too in the 50s but made of unobtanium. Nah not yet, I have a pertronix & coil on the shelf but I gave the dissy a birthday while waiting for it to arrive, running great so haven't felt the need to put them in yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 There was a factory dual quad manifold on the tard for months on end about 20 years ago. (Bit of a ling post, but there is at least one in NZ) Weiand also made a really really nice "high rise" 4bbl manifold too. Dad imported one in the mid 90s when he ran a poly engine in his VF hard top. I believe they're NLA. But if I find my old catalog, I could probably find the part number to aid in your search. I still remember the name of the guy we sold the engine to. (He had a few mopars) this manifold really brought the engine to life. I believe those manifolds are now quite sought after in the US too. Poly engines have a bit of a cult following. (But when engine doesn't have weirdos who love them?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 Google says it's a Weiand 7503. One of them will transform you car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 Give Gavin @ mopower performance a call and see if he has anything about for one. Don't know how much 318 stuff he has but used to be a super helpful guy over the phone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted October 30 Share Posted October 30 20 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said: Google says it's a Weiand 7503. One of them will transform you car. will that clear the hood though? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 I would say yes. It fitted in a VF valiant. You've gotta have much more clearance being a C body. They're not a high rise like a tunnel ram. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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