NickJ Posted April 22, 2024 Posted April 22, 2024 More than happy to help cnc some MDF forms if thats the path you take 1 Quote
Popular Post Hyperblade Posted May 2, 2024 Author Popular Post Posted May 2, 2024 So after some reflection on this, I decided to make my life easier by going for 2.5", while I could have fitted 3" in, it just wasn't worth the effort at the moment. This allowed me to thicken up the outer edge of the plate, and move the air more inwards which is better. So plate ends up as this. For the ducts themselves, trying to get aluminium around them was proving too difficult for my skills, there was a couple of compound curves making life really difficult, even when I altered the ducting to be as simple as possible. I looked at casting but they would have been minimum thickness of 4mm and $1000 odd. I got a quote for 3d printing them in metal from https://craftcloud3d.com/ (min thickness 1mm) Actually not to badly priced $262nzd delivered for the 2 of them (in ali). But the current plan is to take these moulds in PLA and just wrap them in fibreglass, then melt the moulds out (found a friend willing to try it). 11 Quote
Truenotch Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 ^ This is the method. Fibreglass shoild be ok? But if you do it with carbon it'll be great. I think the SR86 ones were carved out of foam and just wet laid over top, then dig out the foam afterwards: 3 1 Quote
Hyperblade Posted May 5, 2024 Author Posted May 5, 2024 19 hours ago, Truenotch said: ^ This is the method. Fibreglass shoild be ok? But if you do it with carbon it'll be great. I think the SR86 ones were carved out of foam and just wet laid over top, then dig out the foam afterwards: Those are interesting in their design, generally my understanding is you don't want to cover the rotor face as it can mean uneven cooling of each side so can promote warping. Although AP racing say you want 10% of air up each face and 80% through fins, but that's pretty hard for your average punter to design for. I'm hoping I can skip the foam part and just use pla, that's cheap and easy to produce at home, so if it works is a good solution for other similar parts. Quote
shizzl Posted May 5, 2024 Posted May 5, 2024 Too much to read to catch up. but I’d use an alloy donut, sliced in half horizontally (on an angle though) then cut to length, angle out another tube to connect to a duct pipe, fizz it all together, job done Quote
sr2 Posted May 21, 2024 Posted May 21, 2024 Some 20 years ago I made a pair of these out of 22 gauge Zintex for our Sierra Cosworth race car , they made a huge difference. With floating rotors The trick is to get the air in through the back near the center. 4 1 Quote
Hyperblade Posted May 22, 2024 Author Posted May 22, 2024 22 hours ago, sr2 said: Some 20 years ago I made a pair of these out of 22 gauge Zintex for our Sierra Cosworth race car , they made a huge difference. With floating rotors The trick is to get the air in through the back near the center. They look good! Unfortunately mine are fairly complicated due to the size of the rotor and wheel. It's made it challenging to get air the in, but i'm pretty confident what i've done will have a pretty big impact on temps. First Prototype: My original version probably would have worked with the rotor hat holes blanked off, but while i'm busy fixing those I may as well do the job properly and hopefully for the last time. 4 Quote
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