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Fletch's 260c sedan


fletch

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I saw this for sale locally 3-4 years ago and thought I better own it. I drove it around for a while until I got frustrated with it cutting out.

The oldest photo I have of it was when I was having a shed reshuffle. It's at the back cos I was pissed off.

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The interior is pretty mint with cloth and vinyl seats, l26, 95000miles.

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Sweet after market 80s sound system with single speaker on the parcel tray

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Apart from the stuffed paint, there is only 1 spot of rust, on the front guard.

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First jobs were maintenance jobs. @Carsnz123was up for a few days so we gave it a tune up, dizzy cap, rotor, points , plugs etc, bit of maniseal on the exhaust manifold to pipe flange as it was poked.

Did a little bit of driving around, but after a while it would die randomly and would only start after turning the electric fuel pump off and on.

I suspected a blockage on the fuel pickup.

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Yep

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Bit of shuffling about and the tank was out

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@RUNAMUCKand @- i5oogt - can have a good chuckle about this as I'm not the most slender of humans and you have to get right into the boot and spoon the fuel tank to get it out, and they saw me do it on the green ced.

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Bit of a slosh around and this came out of the tank.

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Nope, she's gone.

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On Karl's green Cedric we changed the manky fuel tank out for a diesel one from the same 230 series and it was pretty straight forward apart from being a bit taller.

I got a tank from either karl or @brocky41i forget now. Also a diesel tank, but from a later 330 Cedric. Wasn't quite the same in the filler neck area unfortunately.

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So a fair bit of measuring and measuring followed by some furious anger and a bit of fuel rated hose and it was now the same

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I ran the flap wheel on the die grinder through rhe donor pipe to get the rust out first.

A bit of an extension to the straps and it went straight in.

On the 34567th try

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Replaced the fuel filter and chucked in a $10 trademe pump which lasted long enough to prime the carb before it china'd out and shit the bed so I had to buy the $70 one dammit.

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Next up was some more maintenance.

The brake master cylinder was poked. Lucky I had a nos one in stock. I had robbed the reservoirs for the super six so it's still rolling the dirty og ones

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Followed by the caliper rebuild. Getting good at these now. Cortina pistons and puegot seals go straight in. Plus a couple of new brake hoses.

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Then all of the ball joint boots were fucked so out they went

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Then I got sucked into a big project at work and didn't touch it for 2 yrs

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Then I decided to get it going and take it to swap meat and make an attempt to sell it as I have too many projects.

Unfortunately for me, it wasn't my day at the testing station as my main man did most often he inspection, but some other peacock came over with his yellow crayon and said all of the brown steel was rusty and a fail. I tried to explain that it was not some pressed tin piece of rust, but actual steel.

Nope, not having it.

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So in a fit of madness, I found the appropriate engine support and ripped out all of the 'rusty' parts.

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@Bistrocame over and helped wire wheel all of the rust off. Most of it just brushed off by hand...

And next minute we were spray painting all the parts in my gazebo outside in the rain at 11pm.

No pics, just imagine all the suspension parts painted black.

I had it back together and got the wof the next day in time to leave for swapmeat

 

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Bonus pic for lols of the extra long u bolts that the last jokers installed. Had to trim them for wof as they got hooked up on the lip around the pit at the testing station and they had to do skids to get it off.

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Gave me flashbacks of coromandel nats dirt track racing maybe @chris r @Threeonthetree and some others? Blowing numerous tyres in the panelvan.

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On the way to swapmeat a clunk started up in the steering which slowly got worse. The ball joint in the centre rod of the steering flags out on all of these models and the previous shape too. I thought I would be smart and fit up a spare from my collection, but it's the later 330 model and they went to a bigger taper and ball so no dice.

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The local steering and suspension shop rebuilds the joints and have done all of my other ones so I'll drop it off there next week.

Next issue is there is a big flat spot in the carb when you have been decelerating or just rolling along to a stop.

On this car it will just die when you get on the gas. It's a bit inconvenient as you have to pop it into neutral and crank it then back to D as fast as you can.

It can lead to some serious sphincter clenching moments as @Bistro discovered when we pulled out of a driveway and stalled and a fuel tanker came roaring around the corner...

My wagon also has this issue but it's a manual and you can give it a rev before letting out the clutch so it's manageable. I always thought this was due to all the slop in the throttle shaft but having 2 cars behave the same made me think maybe it was the low speed fuel jet or something like that.

My Mrs wants to drive the car but isn't proficient at the hot start technique so I need to fix it.

I thought it could be the accelerator pump so I went for that first. I had some parts in stock so swapped that out in the car but it made no difference.

So

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I got a bit carried away and pulled all the jets out and discovered some of the air bleeds were corroded.

 

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Lucky I had some carb jet drills from my minibike hijinks.

That didn't work so further investigation revealed it was the accelerator pump jet. There is a check valve between the pump and the jet that was leaking back to the pump giving you no gas if you had been decelerating or idling for a while.

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The carb bodies are made from a pretty soft material and the seat for the check valve is cut straight into the body. I have a very similar carb from an early 80s nissan and it has brass seats for all of the check valves.

I was hopeful of a barry fix by putting in a slightly larger ball and giving the spring a stretch for some more compression but that didn't help.

 

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