Hyperblade Posted July 16, 2023 Share Posted July 16, 2023 Found a pic of the Altezza setup this was run in standard tank which had minor baffling added around it. This is a bodged version to move to a new tank setup but retain the regulator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 8 hours ago, Hyperblade said: Found a pic of the Altezza setup this was run in standard tank which had minor baffling added around it. This is a bodged version to move to a new tank setup but retain the regulator. Thanks for your replies Hyperblade. If I don't need to run a return line then that will be a bonus. Fitting an internal pump to the Hillman tank would require a fair few mods as the access hole is for the sender only and isn't very large. The guy in Canada used the fuel pump from the s2000 and shortened it and mounted the Minx sender to the side of the pump but enlarged the access hole with what he could remove from the Honda tank (without blowing himself up). I think I will have to go with a external pump mounted near the bottom of the tank to feed a surge tank with an inner pump to feed the engine with an external regulator. I will look into the dampener. I have a pump that is reasonably quiet (nz made) which should make a good pump the feed the surge tank. If I don't use a surge tank and can't baffle the outlet then it will really shorten the distance I can do between fills as I would have to fill up again at 1/4 tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Tiger Tamer said: Thanks for your replies Hyperblade. If I don't need to run a return line then that will be a bonus. Fitting an internal pump to the Hillman tank would require a fair few mods as the access hole is for the sender only and isn't very large. The guy in Canada used the fuel pump from the s2000 and shortened it and mounted the Minx sender to the side of the pump but enlarged the access hole with what he could remove from the Honda tank (without blowing himself up). I think I will have to go with a external pump mounted near the bottom of the tank to feed a surge tank with an inner pump to feed the engine with an external regulator. I will look into the dampener. I have a pump that is reasonably quiet (nz made) which should make a good pump the feed the surge tank. If I don't use a surge tank and can't baffle the outlet then it will really shorten the distance I can do between fills as I would have to fill up again at 1/4 tank. Just for reference if you do decide to chop up the original tank (which is more then doable) Here's the starlet tank that was running the altezza pump (ignore all the other shit, it's mostly redundant). As long as you get the height of the pickup right e.g 2mm off bottom and run some baffling you would be fine. He ran basically what was like Icecream sized square at the bottom around the pump with a couple of holes (and return from regulator feeding into it), this was pretty good even on the track until the welds broke and it started rattling around. Granted he did blow it up in his face while welding it... but from what i've read if you purge a fuel tank correctly it's actually a straight forward job from that point of just standard welding. Yours has a relatively flat surface too, I would just cut it all out put a plate on top, grab a fuel pump setup from a modern car like a toyota/honda and do another fuel sender hole. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 1 hour ago, Hyperblade said: Just for reference if you do decide to chop up the original tank (which is more then doable) Here's the starlet tank that was running the altezza pump (ignore all the other shit, it's mostly redundant). As long as you get the height of the pickup right e.g 2mm off bottom and run some baffling you would be fine. He ran basically what was like Icecream sized square at the bottom around the pump with a couple of holes (and return from regulator feeding into it), this was pretty good even on the track until the welds broke and it started rattling around. Granted he did blow it up in his face while welding it... but from what i've read if you purge a fuel tank correctly it's actually a straight forward job from that point of just standard welding. Yours has a relatively flat surface too, I would just cut it all out put a plate on top, grab a fuel pump setup from a modern car like a toyota/honda and do another fuel sender hole. It would have to be all set at the same height as it is now as the boot floor is directly above the tank. It could be done as he has done it or finding something from another donar car. I have sealed the inside of the tank with POR15 so it would have to be stripped out to be able to weld to it somehow as being able to reach it would be a problem. I would think there maybe some cert requirement coming to welding fuel tanks mods, but don't know for certain. This is what he did with the S2000 pump. First pic is with the piece he cut out to shorten it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 You could mount the baffle off the fuel pump cradle, from memory the fg falcon has a plastic tank and cradle thing the kind of clips in with a spring loaded nubbon. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 17 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said: It would have to be all set at the same height as it is now as the boot floor is directly above the tank. It could be done as he has done it or finding something from another donar car. I have sealed the inside of the tank with POR15 so it would have to be stripped out to be able to weld to it somehow as being able to reach it would be a problem. I would think there maybe some cert requirement coming to welding fuel tanks mods, but don't know for certain. This is what he did with the S2000 pump. First pic is with the piece he cut out to shorten it. That looks like a nice simple self contained approach definitely worth exploring further, when you add up all the fittings etc it really adds up quickly if doing a external setup. 3 hours ago, mjrstar said: You could mount the baffle off the fuel pump cradle, from memory the fg falcon has a plastic tank and cradle thing the kind of clips in with a spring loaded nubbon. Good idea! And could fill the rest with foam to help stop it moving as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 52 minutes ago, Hyperblade said: Good idea! And could fill the rest with foam to help stop it moving as well. LOL. This made me laugh. We once owned a unit in a 4 story building that didn't have a very good earthquake rating and would need strengthening. The 2nd and 3rd floor were the weak floors which we were not on so i suggested they fill them with expanding foam. I will steal some more pics from his build. As you can see in the pic of the Hillman tank where the sender sits the S2000 tank has the same dished area which is what he cut out and welded in. To be honest I think you could bond in a baffle to the tank floor with the POR15 fuel tank sender. I doubt it would ever break free. If you get any in the tins lid you will never get it off. The gas in the tank is never going to effect it. I would trust it to bond the pump fitting to the tank as well. With support and bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted August 29, 2023 Share Posted August 29, 2023 Would you not be better making/buying longer bottom arms? I would think longer arms are better for rear geometry? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted August 30, 2023 Author Share Posted August 30, 2023 16 hours ago, fletch said: Would you not be better making/buying longer bottom arms? I would think longer arms are better for rear geometry? I have read that longer arms are better, and upper and lower being equal length is also better. Though I don't think possible in the Minx chassis. I will need to go through the rear seat area a bit to mount the upper arms so they will probably stay avenger length. I have been looking on the Avenger forums for any handling mods and so far, haven't seen anyone extend the lower arm length. Being no suspension guru, I thought if I set it up as close as I can to the Avenger it should work well. New poly bushes , shocks etc will also help. I do see what you mean though as the front leaf spring mount is temptingly close but would require a lot more work and expense but for how much gain. Thanks for the input. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted September 7, 2023 Author Share Posted September 7, 2023 I spoke to the certifier today after sending him some photos of what I have done with the 4 link. He wants to call in and see the car next time he is in town, which is a good thing. Seems happy with the idea and thought it would be a good idea to link the two shock mounts to each other even though they are only shock mounts and not coil over mounts. I had thought the same thought myself so happy enough to do that. The Avenger upper arms are too short to use really so I will get some made for it. Had a chat with a local guy and you can't weld 4 link bars to the bracket that mounts to the diff head. We will use the same size bolt to bolt it on as the rod ends have. Very helpful and gave me some good advice and tips. Told me to fish plate the chassis with 4mm plate before welding brackets to it. The chassis Hillman is only going to be folded panel steel, perhaps a heavier gauge but not a lot. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 For por15/other types of similar paint we punch two holes in the lid. Seal with bluetack (one is a breather) and remove both to pour some paint into a tray etc (or empty hummus pots if your posh like us) The bluetack does need to be swapped/added to once in a while but it's a good system. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted December 29, 2023 Author Share Posted December 29, 2023 1 hour ago, yoeddynz said: For por15/other types of similar paint we punch two holes in the lid. Seal with bluetack (one is a breather) and remove both to pour some paint into a tray etc (or empty hummus pots if your posh like us) The bluetack does need to be swapped/added to once in a while but it's a good system. Cheers for the tip. That will save a whole lot of hassle with the lid and make it easy to get what I need out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Tamer Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 I still haven't sorted the fuel system delivery. I had a look on K powers web site to see what they were recommending for there K power swaps. They recommended this pump a Walbro 255L perhr pump for $255 US. Walbro 255lph HP Fuel Pump – KPower Industries I did a google search on the pump and found I could buy the pump here in NZ for half the price in NZ dollars from this company. MSEL and the pump price TI Automotive GSS342 255L/hr Intank High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit - Motorsport Electronics Limited (msel.co.nz) Half the price in NZ dollars , I think I will be checking out K Powers recommended fuel pressure regulator as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Gss342 is algood, I have used them as a near OEM fitment on a bunch of stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 On 08/03/2024 at 17:46, Tiger Tamer said: I still haven't sorted the fuel system delivery. I had a look on K powers web site to see what they were recommending for there K power swaps. They recommended this pump a Walbro 255L perhr pump for $255 US. Walbro 255lph HP Fuel Pump – KPower Industries I did a google search on the pump and found I could buy the pump here in NZ for half the price in NZ dollars from this company. MSEL and the pump price TI Automotive GSS342 255L/hr Intank High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit - Motorsport Electronics Limited (msel.co.nz) Half the price in NZ dollars , I think I will be checking out K Powers recommended fuel pressure regulator as well. MSEL are great to deal with. Shipping is slightly more expensive but it's always next day delivery. Definitely can recommend them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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