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Mr.mk1's Mopar or No Car '70 Dodge Coronet


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13 hours ago, bigfoot said:

For the brake pistons, thread a grease gun onto the caliper and hydralic them out. Messy but effective. Compressed air works if they not totally stuck

Clever.. Air wasn’t budging them aye!

the other side was rusty and chrome peeling under the dust boot so the are throw away.

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22 hours ago, cletus said:

AFAIK aussie a body upper ball joints were the same small joint the whole way through, B body joint is larger. US a body changed to the same bigger joint mid 70s 

I've got some aussie a body arms with joints if you want comparison measurements 

I can’t get good purchase on that fucking square top! I’ll just tear the whole arm out and have full access.

can confirm the tie-rods are the same as a VJ etc, compared at work.

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I believe @Valiant has a socket.  Maybe a home made one?

I undid an AP5 one once with a pair of 36" rigid pipe tongs. (And a long bit of pipe) guy at the parts shop (who had built a valaint once) tried to tell us "you have to take the arm out of the car to get that joint out. Make sure you mark the position of the eccentric bolts"  nah m8, wont need to do that.

"I'm telling you, you wont get it out in the car!" 

Yeah, well we already have m9, just sell us the part pleez.......

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If we are talking top ball joints then yes I do have a home made one that works well.

@Mr.Mk1 you are welcome to borrow it.

In my experience leaving the arms on the car is the only way to get them loose. 

 

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One of the top arm/adjuster bolts snapped.

Stoked

can confirm what Clint said with the Val top BJ being too small.

Drivers side top arm has a dent right beside the square nut which adds another layer of complexity so I’ll probably just weld a piece of scrap to bj and twack it. Cheers Pete!

 

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Hey those heads arent your standard run of the mill "675" casting 318 heads. Either they're 360 heads, or later emissions ones. Those holes below might be egr related? 

You should pop a rocker cover off, and see what the last three digits of the casting number are.

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Yeah I dunno, the ports look pretty big and the exhaust manifolds look like 360 ones.... and a 727 behind a 318 seems a bit odd, i dont know enough about what parts should be in a B body though

I had a set of 360 heads years ago that had those holes 

X2 on casting numbers on heads and block, would be interesting to see what's what

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I also see some double valve springs, new looking retainers and clean valves.

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Interesting 

needs a clean and some rust removal on bits..it’s obviously been pulled from the cuda or installed with no covers and some shits got I there. Gaskets cooked too so they must have put the original coronet ones back on 

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You cunt!

302 heads are the ones I want! They're circa 1985-88 swirl port/"fast burn".

They feature closed chambers. 

I saw a back to back once where just the heads were changed from 675's to 302's.

Nothing else was changed, and the 302 made more power. 

Be Interesting to learn if they still have the 1.5", and 1.68" valves or if the bigger 1.6 and 1.88 (or 2.02!) Have been added. It's worth noting the 302 heads came with "flame hardened" valve seats, as unleaded gas was a thing by '85. (We were just heated up and quenched)

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Hot rod!

wonder if it’s cammed? Lol

i don’t want to go down the rabbit hole of modifying a V8 for a long while. Wouldn’t mind some extractors though. The manifold bolts were mad rusted to the flanges and extractors always look boss 

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It wont be hard to tell. Wind the motor over, and see how far the valves open. Shouldn't be difficult to measure the lift and extrapolate if the cam is stock or not.

Likewise affixing a degree wheel to the crank and measure the duration. (If you wanna get really carried away, I can get you an pil pump priming tool to stick in a drill and pump up the lifters.

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The 318-7 suggests it's a later block too. I think every time they updated the molds (or something) they changed that number. (I have a 318-4 in my hoard of shit) 

* iirc, might be completely wrong 

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