JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 [Update Sep 2019] turns out there was a wiring link missing on the supply to the resistor block was never there, now car runs better than it ever has in 2 years had a mate looking her over, he says "hey you've not got that jumper #5" makeshift Jumper, which I'll probably never upgrade [Update Aug 2019] Had the second hand Res Block fail while driving to Palmy Meet Have replaced with a brand new unit Now car only runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies Appears Electrical ie not fuel related Has anyone experianced something like this & got any tips? [SOLVED tl:dr Resistor block failed : but read on to see some steps on problem solving with Electronic ignition in my Hillman Avenger] So drove to work yesterday, Parked all normal (over the Saddle Road) went to go to lunch & hey that's weird Car fires but wont 'run', heaps gas & sounds like its all fine until I return the key to On position, car dies I realise it's fairly basic switching & wires but a little over my head if anyone can dumb it down for a wood worker Started with the Ign switch inspection (thought it was main fault at first as a little wiggle caused the Alt light to blink) then tried a second hand unit with exactly the same results, starts but doesn't run so I'm a bit stumped, checked fuel in line, car runs good with the key in starter position (can rev it a little bit & don't want to wreck starter etc) more pics & Diagrams & maybe I've answered own question with the manual? Ballast resistor? And I'm running Electronic ignition from a later model so other than the chances of the second ign switch having same fault (unlikely) which most obvious Sparky boi have I over looked"? Internal guts of the ign switch are fairly simple too only one contact covering 1/5 > 3/2 1 : to Starter motor 2 : Acc 3 : Dash 5: (labeled it 4 on sticker) is main feed from Battery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 If you hotwire it you can rule in/out the ign switches Id suspect somethings up with the power feed to the coil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 before I go & let the smoke out that's be all of them together & touch the starter to the bunch right? I do have a multi meter on my & get a circuit through the ign switch, mostly in the start position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 12 minutes ago, azzurro said: hotwire it you can rule in/out the ign switches confirmed same result(starts but wont run) power to the coil eh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Yep. 2 3 5 together and 1 should crank the starter With 2 3 5 Toogether check for voltage at the feed to the resistor after the resistor and also at the coil + Should be close to battery voltage going in to the resistor. I think around 9v coming out? More than zero anyway! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 got 12's on one prong on the Ballast resistor (bottom right only on the white block) and 11-12 on both sides of Coil (car "on" position") its tucked under battery tray so cant quite see which is the + side can tell some of this is a two man job (crank & check) and there's only one of me here currently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Other terminal of the coil is the ground trigger from the dizzy. Should be 0v ( relative to earth). If it is 12v then Could be the control module in the dizzy is bust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 Coil report 12.14 Volts from BOTH sides (all plugged in correct & car ON) I suggest its feeding right through to the -Ve side (does a coil do this normally? its name does suggest a coil or wire right?) as in, unplugging the -ve side still results in the 12.14V with the +ve feed still live or I was going to suggest points in contact but its not got points anymore... or is my coil shot? & yep sorry hard to diagnose over the internet hope I'm providing adequate information & tests, gees I used to love circuits & Techno stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 The 12v is probably coming back at ya from the dizzy. ign module or points ground to collapse the coil field and make a hv spark. Cant recall if its normally 12v when not gounded or just open circuit? When cranking tye starter i think 12v goes to the coil (resistor bypassed) and once running it only gets the resistors 9v. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 yea there's only one feed on the + side of coil (12v on) and one on the -ve side of coil (there may have been a falling off = main problem as there a couple of spare wire in the area but nothing that looks like its lost its home if you catch my drift) with the -ve lead unpligged the -ve side of the coil still has the 12V, the -ve lead has nothing appreciate hard to see where you are lol might take more pics tomorrow after I've put ignition & steering back together (easier to get the shear bolts out) oddly my spare parts Ign still has intact shear bolts! Never seen them 'live' before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 6 hours ago, JoKer said: got 12's on one prong on the Ballast resistor (bottom right only on the white block) That sounds odd? I'd expect to see about 12V on both ends of the ballast? If the ballast Resistor is toast, the car may spark when cranking (ballast is bypassed), then stop when releasing the cranking (tries to feed coil thru that Resistor). 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Sounds like ballast resistor to me. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 Ace (yep fully aware potentially answered my own question in OP then went off man-looking for other problems to focus on) will swap it out & report when I get a chance today (Last minute Xmas orders to make & try to get out) is there a work around should this ever happen again? or do I just add to the list of spares to carry in an emergency? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 22 hours ago, JoKer said: Ballast resistor? And I'm running Electronic ignition from a later model Chapter 4. (hoping this info may help someone here one day & not just me making noise : been a points man since 1997 > 2017) so I whip out me multi meter I also found this sweet Clock in my parts Bin! Measuring the Ohm's : Low side High one in the car same test : Low Nothing High Confirmed! Plug in spare block & it fires up instantly Any clues to why or how it failed other than "they do that" was weird how it ran when parked : then dead [SOLVED] also obviously the multi meter has read different figures to what I was expecting, that I wrote on the side, is it ok to run this block? Or will it let the smoke out too? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Looks near enough to me. You could measure the current (tricky, with AC) if you're concerned. Keep an eye/nose out for coil getting too hot, etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 51 minutes ago, h4nd said: coil getting hot cool yeah ta that was one of the mentions of why the Ballast may fail too (gets hot OFF Load) so might look at moving it a tad to aid cooling too Thanks heaps OS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 Had the second hand Res Block fail while driving to Palmy Meet Have replaced with a brand new unit Now car only runs for 3 or 4 seconds then dies (seems same time limit weather Idling or reving Appears Electrical ie not fuel related Has anyone experienced something like this & got any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Condenser? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 nah Electronic ign / doesnt have one, hah yeah scratching head at moment all I can put it down too is the resistor at moment, ran when 'parked' heaps fuel (pulled lined off today & such) runs a chysler / Valiant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 Not the electronic ignition module in the dizzy is it? I have had a few give up on me over the years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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