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Willdat's this wasn't supposed to be a project Honda Beagle


Willdat?
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Signed up to nzhondas I see, but the best minds are already here mate :P

 

Ha - yes, I was hoping there might be a little more DOHC ZC specific knowledge over that way...just bought some EF3 door panel decals (as below but silver) to go with my boot DOHC

 

065.jpg

 

s-l500.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I noticed the power steering had become a little heavier after doing a full lock manoeuvre. I figured as per the advice earlier in the thread that perhaps I hadn't bled the PS correctly/enough. Spent about an hour getting all the bubbles out of the system. Only to look down at the PS pump and spy that the belt was off and destroyed. Obviously the chipped crank pulley is too damaged to be used. Eventually the engine seller found me the correct replacement - and it's on its way to me today.

Otherwise it's driving well.

Except for the warning lights - I've disconnected the ABS pump until I can fit a replacement - there's one in Motueka that should be cheap if the seller ever gets back to me. If not - removing ABS looks like a good idea - I'm guessing this would be a wof/cert issue? This also triggers a 4WD warning light.

The O2 sensors in the exhaust obviously didn't like the raw fuel being poured onto them before car was running correctly (I assume that's what has happened?) so the exhaust temp warning lamp is on from the moment the car starts.

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New crank pulley showed up on Friday - finally got some shed time this afternoon. It's the wrong size again. 3 months is getting a bit silly to be still waiting for the right stuff to be sent. Back to the shed to earth the cat sensor.

 

Has anyone had any joy with having crank pulleys repaired?

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How bad is it? Can you weld it up at school and machine it smooth ? Or get it to shane etc?

 

It has one chip where it's missing about 1/4 of one edge - it looks to be some sort of cast iron so beyond my ability. The engine seller still is optimistic he can get one - I just want to get the car working as legitimately as possible before the wof runs out next month.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just did my first 1000km since swap.

 

Resolution to crank pulley issue was to make up a sleeve inside the wrong 24 mm one and make a new woodruff key. Still hoping to find a pulley with a 22mm hole. I've asked everywhere I can think of, so not holding my breath.

 

Most recent trip was up to here - just under 1500m above sea level.

 

 

Today's 2 minute job is going to be trimming back some heat shield on the exhaust that has rusted through 2 of its 4 bolts.

 

Oh and new testing station wof yesterday. Kinda pleased that it looks and functions well enough to be convincing. 

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Did you check out lake chalice too? Great biking around those parts. We took our '84 Nissan 1.3 racing sunny up there. It just made it.

 

Yup! Plan A had been to go to Blue Lake up St Arnaud way - weather made boating up Lake Rotoroa look dodgy, so Plan B had been to head up to Mt Richmond, crossing Top River looked undoable so we detoured up to Lake Chalice and stayed at the hut, and climbed Mt Patriach the next day, pretty amazing!

 

Do you know why they built that road up Mt Patriach? It's incredible considering how pointless it seems...

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I'd had an issue when doing the swap with not being able to find a radiator hose so I adapted something from supercheap - was always a band aid fix - it fouled on the cam angle sensor. I went to buy the correct pipe this week but was told $188 and would need to be ordered in.  Too rich for what it is so I extended the SOHC hose with a seat tube from an MTB, seems to work perfectly.

 

Shane borrowed this over Labour weekend and commented that it sounds good but doesn't pull as well as you'd expect.

 

I'd noticed it, but had just attributed it to the SOHC headers on DOHC with no port matching even attempted (on the to do list, just trying to track down a flogged DOHC exhaust manifold gasket if you've got one lying around.).

 

While mucking around with the radiator hose I thought I should probably check the air filter - not checked in my time of ownership - whoops, funnily enough it pulls A LOT better with a new filter. Maybe that turbo isn't needed quite yet...

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I'm intrigued at how it goes now, I did feel like it should have more power... but the induction does sound cool.

I'm also not a fan of the clutch, coupled with work boots it makes for some interesting take offs/stalls. I'm not sure if this is just how honda be or something needs to be modified?

Very grateful for the use of it and I did notice a few mothers having a look at it as I drove around the soccer field.

A++ would soccer mum again

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  • 2 months later...

So did another mission up to Mt Patriach before xmas in this, went well, except a collapsed wheel bearing has left it out of action since. Haven't really needed it so it has pretty much been ignored.

Will get it going again, but think it could do with a bit of a birthday as it really does exactly what I want better than anything else I can afford!

To do list:

1. Get rid of ABS - I'm not 100% on whether I can do this without cert, and also what parts I need to do this legitimately. I'm sure @chris r will know...

2. Replace wheel bearing, sourced already - forgot I had ABS so it's not actually the correct one - hence #1 on the list!

3. Replace top radiator hose - sourced from Aus way cheaper than here.

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I removed it on two of my shuttles and got away with it. Technically you need a cert I believe

You just need a non abs master cylinder. I can't remember if you need a booster too, check the angle on the master cylinder. I think the accord/poolude etc masters are a different angle so you may be able to use on of them,  Proportioning valve out of the same car (providing its drum rear) and all the firewall brake lines. Oh and all the abs wheel speed sensors and possibly the rings on the cv joints.
It will probably be easier to take the intake manifold off as its a tight with the abs crap.

If you want to be cheap I have a pair of hubs you can have for free.

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