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Chris' 79 Hz tonner

chris r

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Here's a closeup and brief overview of how I connected the gm module @dr.wylde


So the stock two wires from the pickup Coil on the dizzy go to the two terminals on the back of the hei module. I recrimped these to suit the different terminals. 

The module I have has letters stamped above the plugs to help identify the pins 

The two wire plug has the 12v feed (+) on the left and coil negative (c) on the right side if your looking into the plug.

The 4 pin plug is ground on the left(g) . Second in is your timing bypass(b) . I've (forgotten to) connect this to the 12v feed. In theory this will stop the module from using its internal advance. Third from left on the 4 pin is tach (r) and the pin on the right(3) is the timing control terminal or signal from the ecu. 

I have had it working on the bench and sparking but don't know how the timing delay etc will work. 

The plugs are easy enough to get. 20 ish new or you can go raid a commodore for them. 4 pin is the idle motor plug and two was the air temp from memory (not 100% though) 

I got my modules from aliexpress ages ago for about $10 each. I got two because cheap and aliexpress. Time will tell how reliable they are. 



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I don't believe in imperial so re tapped the manifold


Chopping board carb spacer 


I tapped the adapter plate but didn't have any bolts long enough. Popped into bunnings for a bit of threaded rod and some loctite 


All bolted together 



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Wrapped the exhaust as i didn't want it to cook the alternator or starter 


Blocked off a couple of vacuum hoses and rangid up a fuel supply



I've got 11ty vacuum leaks but it's running pretty well considering. I need to replace the engine mounts too as they are super soft. 

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Will grab some vacuum, fuel, and brake booster hose to replace what's Missing/old/fucked. 

Went to replace the hoses and the new ones are way to short which is a bit of a cunt. Supercheap took 6 weeks to send them so they better bloody take them back. 

The drivers flare nut was tight/stripped af so it'll be getting replaced soon 

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Tamed some birds and welded the mufflers on

It idles okay but is super rich and backfires 


Will have a yarn with weber specs at some point and get a idea on what jets I need 


Yeah she's rich 

I need to weld up some hangers and wack another flange in so it's easier to remove and refit and weld up a tail pipe 


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So I'm a retard and didn't connect the fuel to the inlet so the bowl was dry, it was connected to a vac port and sucking fuel in through the vac hose on the inlet lol. it runs less badly now, rill rev out if gently open the throttle but if you give it a stab it backfires. will need to re figure out the vacuum lines and get a wideband (and get into the injection as thats easier for me to understand) and see if it is lean or rich on accel


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From what I can gather from various forums that are still hosted and pics that still work the vac hoses should be connected like this? 



I tested the bi metallic strip for the choke and that's fucked/not working so I'll figure out how to barry it onto the old choke cable, or just remove the butterflies or cable tie it open

@The Bronze I found your old posts with vacuum lines but all pics are dead. Could I pop over and have a squizz at yours one day 


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7 hours ago, The Bronze said:

Mine is down at Lyndale Motors getting sorted because i was having a mare. I got a guy off FB to send me some pics that kinda help. I can forward them to you.


Yeah that'll be appreciated 


Today's gc award goes to Jarrod at the mount shop Henderson. Mega friendly helpful dude.

I ordered a set of mounts so the engine might actually stay contained. Ordered at lunch and they were delivered by the end of the day. 

Pic of mounts as text is boring 



Cdl auto parts also have jets to suit the 34adm and were nice and helpful on the phone unlike a certain specialist. Once I figure out what jets I need I'll be ordering off them 

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