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Triumph 2000 - Engine struggles to start when hot


MGD

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Hey guys, new to oldschool. Wondering if someone can help

I recently brought Bevers/Connors/Jakes Triumph 2000 Estate. I’ve done a few little mods but the only thing that’s probably relevant to this problem is I put ramflo air filters on it and subsequently have been tinkering with the carb tuning.

So I’m pretty sure it’ll just be the mixture but maybe something else has changed.

When the cars cold it starts up with a flick of the key, no choke no throttle just fires up. whens its up to running temp however it’s a mission, I have to hold the key on, foot flat on the gas for anywhere from 10-30 seconds (choke makes no difference)

I think the mixture is abit rich cause spark plugs are abit black but not really that bad

I’ve been winding the mixture screw on the bottom of the carbs up 1 flat at a time trying to see if it makes a difference but its doesn’t seem to be.

Any ideas would be great

Thanks

Dylan

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I have had the same problem with my 2000, can you smell petrol?

 

My 2000 would refuse to start, then start and make lots of black smoke, I think it had a sticking float and vapor lock?

 

 

One thing I noticed was alot of bubbling in the fuel filter glass when the motor wasn't running, the heat would force the fuel into the carbs or back the otherway.  

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Yeah I can smell petrol when I'm trying to start it and also it bubbles in the fuel filter glass when I turn it off. When I leave it awhile that glass is full but after a drive when I turn it off it bubbles and the level is pretty low. Come back abit later and it's filled up again

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Running way to rich.

Couple of things could be the issue.

 

New air filters have modified the air flow to the point that the main jets need adjustment. (most likely)

 

Low oil level in the carbs.

 

I do realize that sounds real odd but both type of carbs used on T 2000's and 2500's use a oil filled damper that runs down the middle of the carb.

If you unscrew the big nut on top of the carb you will find a piston like thing on the end of it.

The tube it fits into should have visable oil in it.

Red X or Singer 3 in 1 oil will do the job.

That system is refered to as a "dash pot" if you want to google it.

 

If CD type carb the rubber diaphragm my have a pin hole in it.

 

You've played with the main jet seat adjustment. Big nut under the carb can be turned by hand if SU style carb.

 

There's many how to tune guides out there for these cabs out there, none of them are easy and if you're a British side draft virgin I would recommend you get someone to show you how.

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I gave Jake my engine out of my 2.5 so if you have my old engine in there now i can tell you it always like a bit of choke to start hot or cold, it needed a tune when i had it. ramflo's on trumpys dont work to well i tried them in past it sounded cool but didnt go anywhere as well as the standard filter box behind the headlight. try reverting back to stock or just removing the filters and their bases as they can cover up vacuum holes the carbs use to work properly

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Yeah Jake gave me the 2.5, I have been considering putting it in but I want to muck around with this one try learn abit for a while. You're right about those vent holes on the carbs, when I first put the ram flos on I didn't have them and it ran really really rough but sorted that pretty quickly. Wasn't doing the won't start when warm thing back then though. I'll throw in the original and see if it makes a difference

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Cool the 2.5 has had a decent amount of head work done recently by me valve grind and a port tickle new gaskets head gasket etc. bottom end was pretty good too. Good starting point for carbs is to wind main jet up flush with carb body inside brass flush with the alloy body you'll see once you whip the guts out of carbs.

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