Rookie Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 The resistor you put in the ECU is to set it up for hall effect/opto. The extra pull up to 12v is to create a voltage differential between open and close on the points to make it easier for the ECU to pick up the trigger points, think of it as a light switch that is only connected to ground, you can see when it is close if you supply your own voltage but otherwise you don't know if it is open or closed, add the phase wire and then it is much easier to see because the light bulb works without needing to supply your own voltage. I would add it anyway just to be safe, but like downtrail said it will probably work without it. Also hand, in this setup you won't get those voltage spikes as it isn't connected to a coil so no emf, the points are just acting as a simple switch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 sweet this all makes sense to me now. ill add the pull up since i have the materials on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 pullup lead made, battery charger repaired, drink in hand looking forward to tomorrows developments! /problems 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Still have no rpm signal. And the led that lit up once last night, hasn't done it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Success, found the original mod instructions, and also discovered one of my flying leads went to the wrong side of a diode.It's actually slightly different to a hall sensor wiring apparently (haven't used the pull up lead) however fix one problem, the next shows its face. im not getting any spark, checking straight from the coil to rule out any distributor errors. the SparkA Led is flashing as it should do, but im not sure if this monitors that the ecu knows it should be firing the coil, or if it monitors an actual live voltage change. also the coil gets pretty warm pretty fast, so haven't had it turned on very much or for very long. it seems like another configuration or programming fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 under codebase and outputs d14 should be spark a (where your coil driver should be connected to) Check also under spark settings Spark output inverted = yes. If the first line is correct and spark output is inverted change spark output inverted to = no and see if coil gets warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Be careful when the coil gets hot they do go boom eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Output Input Location (V2.2) Spark A Right of R25 Spark B Right of R28 Spark C Right of R26 Spark D Top of R14 with R14 removed Bottom of R1 with R1 removed Bottom of R1 with R1 removed Spark E U1 pin 10 JS7 JS7 Spark F JP1 pin 5 JS10 JS10 This is the table i pulled from DIYAutoTune. i have my coil driver fitted to the right side of R25, which is nowhere near d14 as it says in tunerstudio. should i move it? also i have spark inverted = yes, i will try it as no and report back. another note i saw someone mention was that retaining the balast resister caused the extra heat and its not required? though ive not seen that written officially, and most diagrams show it still in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Sorry d14 is the led for spark a on the v3.0 board so where you have it is correct. should be d17 for the 2.2 board. If its a 12v coil by all means remove the ballast resistor but if its a 6v coil keep it there. set led 18 and 19 to warm up and acceleration make sure no other spark outputs are selected here or weird stuff happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 i have led18 set to IRQ trigger, meant to monitor the points trigger which it does, and LED19 is set to acceleration which i dont think will do anything on my build. led17 is set to Spark A. all the wiring is correct, im not really sure what the issue is thats not giving me spark. ill bolt the ecu back together and go try it with Spark inverted = No and see if that changed anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 coil is 12v so unhooked the resistor, i think it was the resistor that was getting really hot, the coil does warm up though on its own so not certain that its okay as is. still no spark though, tried both inverted and not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Shouldn't be getting warm unless running. whats your cranking dwell set to? Somewhere around 5ms should be fine. does your laptop dusconnect whilst cranking? Could be a poor griund to ecu Causing it to shut down due to a large volt drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 cranking dwell set to 6ms laptop doesn't disconnect and LEDs flash on the ecu when cranking (showing points trigger and supposed coil firing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Should work then. You have the insulator behind the coil driver should be bosch bip337. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 And can you confirm your coil receives +12v whilst cranking. If its on an aux cct it will be disconnected when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 The car started and ran well couple days ago on analog ignition so I assume so, but I'll chuck a test light / borrow a multimeter from work and confirm. Bip is insulated from the case as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 ok and the bip373 is as follows. from the right of r25 you have a 330ohm resistor connecting to the left leg of the ignitor. The center leg is connected out to the negative of the coil and the right leg is grounded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 test light confirms power to coil while cranking. however also put test light from (-) terminal of coil to battery power (this should be a switched earth controlled by the ecu/bip373 yeah?) and its earth all the time no matter the position of the engine/points open or closed etc. so this doesn't sound right at all. am unbuttoning the ecu now to triple check the BIP wiring but am pretty sure its as you stated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 alright the BIP is wired up as stated. ive used pins 3+4 on the DB37 connector as i think these are un used pins, have directly soldered to the db37s pins. perhaps i fucked up there and they are internationally earthed? bellow is just an example of why i think 3+4 are okay to use for coil (-), not how ive wired the entire ecu etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Don't go through that silly connector take it through a hole in the case and put a plug on it. Those pins are terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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