Popular Post chris r Posted January 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 2, 2017 My friend welded up what i had tacked up with the arc so I had a go at doing the tip/bit that sticks out of the bumper with the arc. It started off well then turned to shit. I ended up smacking a long bit of pipe on and it mostly behaved, I can trim/cut the tip later but it'll probably stay like it is. I thought I'd check out the fuel pump as the fuel was aerating/smelled shit. It had a plastic emergency cap on the fuel filler and I think the car has sat/not been driven/had a few owners for the last few years. The tank was full of shit and the pump was rusty and the outlet had some brown shit in it. I'm glad I have just chucked a new fuel filter in this. I may have to get another one. I went nuts with vinegar/baking soda and the hose and got quite a bit of shit out It took 3 rinses worth of fuel for the cloudiness/shit to go away. I stole the pump out of the beagle and chucked that in, Hopefully it still works and is good enough. I'm quite glad I decided to drop the tank and check the pump. I'm also surprised it started and ran on this shitty fuel. The old fuel was disposed of responsibly... 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Attempted a stationary cooling test and it did a soft limiter at 4500 so I'll have to double check the vss wiring. I had a quick look and the signal wire had 5v on it which I don't think is right I have probably connected the wrong wire somewhere. The rear muffler leaks where I was a noob and burnt through so I'll try rangi a patch on for now. If it is still shit ask someone who can actually weld to sort the whole rear section out as i've probably fucked it. Arc welding doesn't work good on thin steel. Two of the 3 gauges have failed so I'll ditch them and remove the senders I made a mount for the battery box/battery to sit on. The small plate goes under the car and hopefully it will support the tray enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 After a quick test on a friends car and a check of a diagram I had the sensor connected wrong. Easy fix. I've got a non fucked sensor on its way. The ass of this is quite light. It just drags the back wheels along while doing a single peel. But nankangs smoke good. Just need to fix muffler, fuel leaks, hunting idle, fill coolant, put trim in, replace crank pulley, Mount/finish battery tray, fix sunroof leak, get heater working, get passengers mirror working and I can see what it fails a wof on. Then dyno and pull the gearbag out and put a lsd in and ditch the puk clutch. Then hopefully do a skid with both wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 I started to paint the spare guard for the shuttle. Yes it looks shit and the colour match isn't perfect but for a rattle can job it'll do for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 It's funny what you find when you tidy up the hoard. I had a spare gearbox with the right sensor all along. I'll have another spare now. Chucked a few layers if clear on the guard and it looks really good from a few meters away so I'll bolt it up tomorrow and call it a result 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 I realized I didn't have a photo of the bay after the hours of work (not that you can tell :P) And I founda video of it when it was for sale this time last year (possibly the guy who initially built it) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 Because I am a rough cunt and don't like water dripping on my head I siliconed up the sunroof panel gaps. I could take it out but on the off chance one turns up I'd like it to work. Picked up a crank pulley so I'll try swap that around tomorrow and figure out mounting the power steer pump. Yes I'm putting it back in but when I end up takin it on the track less effort and less turns lock to lock will be nicer, And my shoulder is going to take months to get back to where it was before the accident. The shuttle got some attention today too. I slapped some clear coat on the guard yesterday afternoon and bolted it up today. The colour match isn't perfect but I am happy the overall job considering I painted it on the lawn with a rattle can. There is a couple of small dents and flakes in the guard but meh. Where are you going to find parts for this? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 6, 2017 Author Share Posted January 6, 2017 I finally started a thread on the Honda forum and a guy had a photo of it before it was black. From my wire brushing in the engine bay it looks like it's been sprayed over the original paint has anyone got tips/tricks for removing the black layer? I've splashed some acetone over it and it softens it but I think I'll need heaps to make a dent in it. I was thinking about making up a heat shield for the extractors. Yes I could wrap them but that's the easy way right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Pulled out the rangi fuel line and figured out why it was weeping... I had not tightened up one of the bolts enough. Monday I'll see about getting one made up so it fits nicely. Fuel coming out is still nice and clean so I call that a win. When I see if the shop has the jack I'll get them to make up a nicer version of this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 I was looking for something else in the garage today and picked up a bracket and thought that looks familiar. Turns out it was a power steering pump bracket for a B series ef i've done a quick test fir and the profile is correct but the lower bracket is too high as the B18 block is slightly taller than the B16.. Luckily the brackets are only held together by a 10mm bolt so I'll whip that off and test fit the pump another day. Now i have all the parts sorted engine side. The subframe is out of the parts car so fingers crossed the rack fits and I dont need ef8 specific tierod ends as they are discontinued Edit: can A mod change the thread title to chrisrs gay hondas or something? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Collect my hoses today, they were a bit more spend than I expected. The hose Barry said the oil line wasn't crimped properly and would of burst. It looks less shit now and shouldn't leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 The b18cr top power steer pump bracket is unique. Its B16a spacing for the head and a longer slot for belt adjustment. I now have a spare gen1 b16a pump and brackets if you are short of those bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 I have made the ef9 pump bracket work and have a pump but who knows how good it is. I'll swap the rack over and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Fair enough, you should consider trying to find a replacement for that oil pressure brass tee in stainless. Vibration plus brass can = crack. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Oh I had a bigger heavier block but thought the Ali (motor) block wouldn't like the weight hanging off it. I will be supporting the oil feed as much as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 So in order to fix one potiental fuel leak I now have created two. I forgot to ask for a fitting that uses a crush washer instead of the taper seal. I remembered after I found the leak. So of course now the fuel rail is ugly and if I get the correct fitting it'll still leak. Oh and the filter end leaks too. I'll try new crush washers and a correct fitting on the rail end and see how it goes. Update: I popped in to enzed and got some crush washers, talked to the guy and he suggested trying a o ring. As soon as I got it finger tight it pinched the o ring and spat it out one corner. I have tried loctite in the threads instead of thread tape so i'll let that cure and try tomorrow. Failing that I'll be rangi/a rough cunt and use that metal epoxy stuff to seal it once and for all. It says its fuel resistant on the box so It has to work right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 I put the water pump on the churbo motor and then put on and took off the timing belt 3 times because I forgot stuff. First time I forgot the engine mount bracket, Second time I had forgotten the plastic stone/dust shield and 3rd because I hadnt torqued any of the cam cap/bearing bolts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Another day full of win. I left the loctite to chooch overnight and it worked perfect. Once I took a hour to diagnose a blown fuse.... New copper crush washers did the trick on the filter too. Happy with that result. I set the idle stop screw so now it actually idles and no more hunting. Attempted to do a stationary cooling test but the back is so light it drags it along, It has lots of revs now and speedo seems to be working still. it isnt too loud with the cannon gone and the muffler not leaking The loudest part is the gearbox now 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Popped into zebra and grabbed the radius arms out of a old accord so now I can adjust the caster easily. I'm glad I found out about the accord arms! The bushes for the arms also turned up so perfect timing on that. The mounting centers look the same as the Civic ones but the holes are a tiny bit smaller, Easy fix though. I picked up some recaros to replace the ones in the crx. Drivers side squab has come out and they aren't that comfortable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 I pulled the fake carbon fiber shit off the roof panel. I found some of the leaks... I went to start it again the other day and no go. Me being a tight arse and using a s/h pump wasn't a good idea. Time to drop the tank again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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