maxted

Maxteds 1969 mazda B1500

Recommended Posts

Looks sharp man!

Re: the vibration, what are the UJ's in the driveshaft(s) like? I had something similar (vibration at a certain speed) on an old car that turned out to be buggered UJ's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks sharp man!

Re: the vibration, what are the UJ's in the driveshaft(s) like? I had something similar (vibration at a certain speed) on an old car that turned out to be buggered UJ's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cheers mate! I replaced all the universal and hanger bearing when first put it together (probably 5 years ago now haha)but it wouldnt of even travelled a 1000km yet, possibly might even need some more use to free up, i think they have grease nipples might give them a couple pumps. its not bad at all now it still looks a little bit out of line so might see if there is something i can do to line it up better and see if it is completely gone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, maxted said:

After putting the front back together, thought I should look into getting the disc brakes ready to go on. stripped them down ready to clean up. 

will compare top and lower arms next to see if need to use the 2nd gen ones.

list of parts needed and part numbers for reference

brake pads - JB-F50FF / DB292

Wheel bearings - outer 30204 inner 30206

rotors measured 20.2 ish and the min is 19mm so might just skim these for now and track down some new rotors can put on later.

will clean up the booster/extension tube, has a 13/16 master. hopefully not to much to fit the tube with just adding some new holes in the fire wall.

IMG_1042_25.jpg

IMG_1039_25.jpg

IMG_1038_25.jpg

 

 

Is it just me or is that disc super thick? 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You still running left hand thread on the left side? When I put discs on the front of mine I used the opportunity to take the studs out of the old drum being replaced and put them on the rear to have normal threads all round 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@mutiny I swapped it all to right hand thread when i first put the chassis together as i had stripped a couple of well past saving b1600's and had enough spares. Had they gone to right hand thread all round on the 2nd gen? one thing i haven't checked.

can you remember when you put discs on yours if you used the top and bottom arms of the 2nd gen? or did the hub fit the first gen balljoints? 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you just use one of the 2nd gen ball joints. Pretty sure original marks stayed on. I may have detailed it in one of my build threads.  Been a long time now 

 

Edit. Nope didnt record details.fuck my old thread of my b1600 is garbage 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I searched for your thread after you mentioned you did the disc swap but no pictures show at all. 

cool I'm hoping that is the case to retain all the new bushes and ball joints ect already put on. need to dig out my spares to compare between them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did an SR20det conversion into a later b series/ early courier once, and couldn’t fit the original sized booster, so figured out a really early Suzuki Swift (Holden Barina shape) booster basically bolts in. Just had to shorten the booster to firewall tube. Just a thought if you wanted something smaller and closer to the firewall.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 16/04/2020 at 23:12, maxted said:

yeah it looks it in the photo, maybe just thats its not vented? 

There are two types of disk from what i found, a super thick boy, like that and a thinner one. I believe the thicker ones were on the larger engine capacity B series utes.

20mm vs 12mm

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ceb-121-45016/year/1982/make/mazda/model/b2200

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ceb-121-45007/applications/make/mazda

 

On 17/04/2020 at 09:46, maxted said:

@mutiny I swapped it all to right hand thread when i first put the chassis together as i had stripped a couple of well past saving b1600's and had enough spares. Had they gone to right hand thread all round on the 2nd gen? one thing i haven't checked.

can you remember when you put discs on yours if you used the top and bottom arms of the 2nd gen? or did the hub fit the first gen balljoints? 

 

Currently in the middle of a swap on a 2nd gen b1600, the top an bottom ball joints seemed to go in fine, but i had to swap the bracket that the tie rod ball joint connects to with the original gen 2 b1600 one as the one on the disk brake setup. I think they were off a b2200, which look the same as yours.

 

Keen to see what you do with the booster, as i have a similar bridge to cross

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, dragon said:

Currently in the middle of a swap on a 2nd gen b1600, the top an bottom ball joints seemed to go in fine, but i had to swap the bracket that the tie rod ball joint connects to with the original gen 2 b1600 one as the one on the disk brake setup. I think they were off a b2200, which look the same as yours.

 

Keen to see what you do with the booster, as i have a similar bridge to cross

Hey Dragon, I didn't know that there was two sizes available, Nice you got a thread on your ute? 

Awesome I had been told i would need to swap that piece that the tierods connect to to keep all my steering the same, I'm about to pull a drum hub to pieces and measure the bearing sizes as it looks like the backing plate for the discs has the same bolt flange as the drum backing plate. so if i can just bolt the disc backing plate on and swap the hubs over that would make it pretty simple and keep all my new balljoints ect.

with the booster it looks like I will just do the same as my mate has done the tube needs to be the bigger size to go over where the rod going to the pedal leaves the booster for atleast 50-60mm so it makes sense the way he has made it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/04/2020 at 08:15, maxted said:

Hey Dragon, I didn't know that there was two sizes available, Nice you got a thread on your ute? 

not on here, but i should probably make one.

On 21/04/2020 at 08:15, maxted said:

Awesome I had been told i would need to swap that piece that the tierods connect to to keep all my steering the same, I'm about to pull a drum hub to pieces and measure the bearing sizes as it looks like the backing plate for the discs has the same bolt flange as the drum backing plate. so if i can just bolt the disc backing plate on and swap the hubs over that would make it pretty simple and keep all my new balljoints ect.

I didn't pull the drum hub apart, so not sure if it has the same backing plate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, dragon said:

not on here, but i should probably make one.

Yeah man would be cool to see some more mazda utes on here

15 minutes ago, dragon said:

I didn't pull the drum hub apart, so not sure if it has the same backing plate

I compared them yesterday and it would work so makes it a fairly easy swap over

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuck yeah! Wondered when you were gonna put that manifold up.. I see you've got all the original stuff with yours.. Mine was missing heaps.. But fuck, that was 98-99.. I can't even remember what it all looked like.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, yetchh said:

Fuck yeah! Wondered when you were gonna put that manifold up.. I see you've got all the original stuff with yours.. Mine was missing heaps.. But fuck, that was 98-99.. I can't even remember what it all looked like.

hopefully should get it next week, I have got the intake set-up and the dizzy coming at this point, Nothing else i should be grabbing before he drops it to the freight depot? I'm going to go with an aftermarket ecu so haven't bothered getting the ecu or airflow meter ect.

The dizzy looks to be electronic so I got that chucked in even tho I wont need it as I might try mod an old points one into a cam angle sensor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah get the dizzy, pull the ignitor out and you plug straight into the reluctor.. Are you getting the block? Does it have power steering? Are the b1500 steering boxes the same as other 70's mazda's? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah just the intake and dizzy its all up in Auckland otherwise would of grabbed the block, didn't check if it had power steering or not, and I'm not sure about the steering box either.

Thats pretty cool with the dizzy, does yours run a crank sensor as well?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.