slacker.cam Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I'm currently going through the braking system on my Fronte and everythings rooted due to it sitting for 10 years. I figure it's best to make all new hard lines as they all have some degree of corrosion on the outside so they insides probably aren't much better. I'm trying to figure out if I should go with steel bundy tube or the cupro nickel tubing. I've never worked with either variety before so I need some advice as to if the extra expense of the copper/nickel stuff is worth it? I understand it's significantly easier to bend and it doesn't have the corrosion issues of plated steel. The price difference seems to be pretty high though - in the order of $15 for a coil of steel vs $100 for cupro nickel. Which should I go with? Also, if anyone has a good source for tubing in Auckland then I'd like to hear about it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 i did my escort with bundy tubing from these guys. http://www.brassfit.co.nz/ dont know about the other stuff, but bundy is quite hard to work with escpecially with tight bends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Make sure the Cupro shit is legit for revin, because I have a feeling it's not/I could be talking shit though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 99% sure cupro nickel is sweet, pure copper is no good though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Yea just use bundy man, it comes in standard copper coated or zinc plated the zinc usually looks tidier but costs a tiny bit more. Pretty sure some European manufacturers use copper-nickel tubing now days for extra corrosion resistance but its not really needed for the extra cost. Just get a little hand bender to make tidy bends, and make sure you double over your flares and all will be good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Sweet, thanks team. Bundy it is. I'd prefer to splash out on a decent bender and use bundy as that way it'll be cheaper in the long run. For future reference, I called brassfit and it's $36 for a 8m coil. This place has 6m coils for $14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 i use copper nickel stuff , im sure it didnt cost that much. i buy it from autostop. its much nicer to work with- easy to bend, you can do it with your thumbs, or round a socket works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 My idea of cheap/expensive might be warped given that I'm working on a car that cost me $200 and is worth nothing to re-sell even if its legal. I've realised that cheap projects are all good, but if you have to spend any money on them it becomes not cheap pretty quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 a full roll of copper nicke cost me $50 something from autostop, ask if you can have it for trade price. the steel bundy tube is hard on the cheep flairing tools, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 How long is a full roll? I know you can buy them in different lengths, i.e. 5m, 10m, 20m etc... I bought 12m of bundy tube from Repco for $50 (I think), but at the time I didn't know where else I could get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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