vivaspeed Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 A little advice from knowledgeable sorts (or any others with unqualified opinions) please. The GFs EE90 Corolla has developed a terrible hot idle problem and won't idle at all when hot (revs just drop to 300-400 and it splutters to death) - has been getting slowly worse for a while but because it didn't affect me every day I opted not to look at it until now. I think it's an air valve/idle throttle problem and when you put foot on accelerator it is like it's being suctioned closed and offers heaps of resistance, although once throttle is open its back into life (if you catch it before it stalls). Immediate thought was to check idle screw but that seems okay. From my limited knowledge of it, and some Haynes manuals for other Toyota cars of mine, it appears to have some sort of hot idle control circuit comprising 23454 miles of vacuum line, tees, one way valves and some temperature type valves on various parts of the engine. Messed around with it today and when I clamped some lines it stalled, when I removed others it ran better. The throttle does not appear to be sitting on any idle adjust screws, and is being held in position (open or closed) by the various diaphragm actuators. Have spent ages on the interwebs trying to find fuel/vacuum system diagrams but to no avail - it's like people don't care much for the old 2E (and I'm not a member of Corolla/Starlet/Tercel forums). Might have to make a trip to the public library for some more info. Have made a temporary fix for now by removing a vacuum line off one of the throttle diaphragms which allows it to idle about 1,200 rpm but I'm not happy about it being not right. Anyone got access to any Factory Service Manuals for a EE90/2E, or have gone through this before? Would I be right in thinking one of the temperature vacuum valve things (on head / with line in and out) may have died causing incorrect vacuum to a diaphragm when its hot? I guess just test the vacuum valves for open/closed in both engine cold and hot states? Can I rip all the vacuum crap off and just have normal carb-ness with a throttle link and auto choke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AG_Addict Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 I have a factory 2E manual, PM me your address & I can send it up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Is it the slide type carb or the conventional venturi style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Has got the slide type carb, like a vertical SU/Stromberg thing. Oh, it runs fine all the rest of the time, good response under load (well as good as a 2E does!), just hot idle is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 There will be an air valve (green and black IIRC) attached to a couple vacuum lines near the carb on the drivers side of the motor. Replace that - its the most common fault with those silly slide carbs crapping out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Green and black valve on drivers side seems familiar from today's rummaging - will investigate further. Are they generic that can be bought somewhere or do I have to part life savings with Mr Toyota for genuine parts? Wouldn't fancy my luck with pick-a-part/wreckers for that kind of thing. Thank you Encyclopaedia K-Trips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 You're welcome Just get a new one from Toyota - IIRC they are <$30 They always crapout so a 2nd Hand one may be just as bad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 KK, your library of knowledge astounds me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 Agree, wish I knew that ten years ago when these things use to serverly fuck me off. Always hot starting issues. Have taken them to so called carb experts who also couldn't repair them. Fitting earlier manual choke carbs was also considered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 I'm not saying its a definite fix but its a very common fault and cheap to try - to the extent I had a brand new one in my toolbox to fit when a car showed the symptoms - 9 times out of 10 it fixed it. I also went through fitting venturi carbs to these cos the carbs were well known to be a cunt. To the point where wreckers were running out of the venturi style and could only sell you the slide type.. These little vacuum valves along with ignition modules in BF Lasers/323's was one of the most common breakdowns on "late model"cars back in my early days as a mechanic in the mid 90's. Mainly cos there were shit-tonnes on the road as fleet cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 ...to the extent I had a brand new one in my toolbox to fit when a car showed the symptoms Unlikely you've still got one decades later? Yes, quite likely to be that valve, and significantly more than $30... Trial and error repairs are so much easier when someone else is paying for parts will investigate further to confirm functioning of said valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Contact "CorollaGT" on here, he is at Manawatu Toyota and should be able to sweeten the price on that valve for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yeah have already been in contact with Mark, he can assist with parts procurement Also he did some workshop consultation on my behalf and confirmed what KK said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Let me know if it does fix it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 An update, (and KK I may have to buy you a beer for your awesome armchair diagnosis) Pulled the stupid thing apart on the weekend and would seem that the green and black valve is at fault. Didn't seem to operate correctly at all, i.e. no valve action whatsoever when vacuum applied to it. Also seemed to be a bit of petrol in it, so not sure if vapour mixture is being sucked back up into it, or what? Is running like a sack of shit at the moment so will get a new valve and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Let me know if it does fix it.. KK, you sir, are a champion! I finally got a replacement valve, fitted it and hey presto, we have idle... It also runs smoother, isn't as rich (you could smell the fuel vapour), and doesn't run on anymore. Frosty cold beer next time I see you (unless for whatever reason drinking isn't appropriate at that time...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 winkface - it always an appropriate time for an icy cold beverage! Glad to help.. What did the valve cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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