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Cam upgrade on a 1600 Crossflow


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Ok what I'm after is a ya or neh on whether a cam upgrade on a standard 1600 crossflow is worth while.

The reason I ask is that I have a standard kent in my lotus 7 while I'm building up a dry sumped race motor for it, and I have to pull it out to sort some oil leaks, so I'm wondering if it would be worth while to slap the 234 (i think) cam in it while it's out or will the stock head mean that there won't be any apreciable gains?

The car has twin 40 dhlas and extractors.

Cheers Guys

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If you are OK with going to the extent of changing cam and manifolds then why not also slap the head off your original motor onto the replacement kent.

They can build the bottom end up and when its all done then and you are ready to get the new motor in, chuck in the dry sumped bottom end and send the original head off to be rebuilt. it shouldn't take longer than a few days to tickle the head up while you fettle with the dry sumped motor and sort things like oil lines etc.

Unless your motor you are getting rebuilt is a twin cam Lotus and in that case I'll stop talki....

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A 234 is a cam made by Kent Cams

http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/5/Camshaft/Camshaft/234-Fast-Road/

And also a Heron combustion chamber is when you have a flat head and a dished piston.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heron_cylinder_head

So what I was trying to say is the uber low CR from having a combustion chamber in piston and in the head will be poose.

So the consensus is: yes, cam = good?

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Ah yes I see now - that has 280 degrees duration (I base my cam ideas around the AD)

So that would be fairly grumpy for road but not overkill. Would definitely benefit from some decent porting but running it with a non ported head wouldn't be horrid - though you will most probably need to retune the carbs to suit the lower airflow.

IMO 290 degrees is as much as you would go for on a car that sees the road. And even then I would just run it on a car that would be an occasional weekend driver.

I'm not pretending to be an expert - far from. But its how my thought process would approach the question.

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^ What he said. Yours will probably be 13mm shank if you do decide to get new ones, but it is cheaper to re-face the existing ones. The guy who grinds your cam will be able to do the followers at the same time.

Additionally: If your new head has been shaved lots or your block has been decked then you may need to change to shorter pushrods. We used Corolla KE70 pushrods in the 120E pre-crossflow motors but I can't remember what we used for the 1600 blocks. It may have been 120E pushrods in the 1600cc motors?

You will also want some spacer plates under the rocker pedastals. That is a good time to reduce the size of the rocker shaft oil feed hole. I think I ran a 4mm oil feed when I was drysumped.

At a glance that head will perform well at high revs and wide open throttle. Torque and midrange may not be quite so good and there is a high chance of cracking between the seats. That is just the way it goes with a stressed Kent.

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Just send your 711M followers down and i'll reface them at lunchtime for you. For a blowie.

Typical kent not giving duration figures at 50 thou. I'd have no worries about running that on standard compression. Will still go harder than stock and the car weighs nothing so loss in tractability isn't really an issue.

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If your planning to stick this in an other wise stock motor, i would check the valve to piston clearance first. The 234 has a very high lift compared to the stock cam, and from what the kent catalog suggests, it will need valve pockets machined in to fit.

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