DangerousPerson Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Just tried to do the tappets but I think I've fucked up. Set them to 5 and 9 as found on club k but now has a noisy tap, first time I've ever done it so very possible I did it wrong. I did notice one or two of the exhaust valves has a bit of play in it. Might need to take it to mechanic to get tappet clearances set (unless any OSGCs wanna lend a hand). Will get a coil tomorrow if I get a chance. The miss seemed to be all the time before but I guess I didn't pay too much attention to it first thing in the morning. I can't find any part number on the coil as the label has peeled off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rip Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hey just spend a few days messing with sons one of these after an unknown oops jump starting. Check the fuel cut off solenoid thats is on the first jet but not the second on the carbe. Get someone to turn the key on an off and listen for a click and the carb each time or leave the key on and unplug the connector leading up to the card it should go click click as you make and break it. No power on this wire causes the car to run like a haunted shit house fine at full noise but won't idel or run smothly down the road. Link that got me to wiring dia http://actualrepair.com/starter-repair/ it was compressed with rar that was a pain and had to print it all and cut a tape it good thought it was quite clear. Funny thing about the wiring dia is the the relay should have switch power to the starter soleniod and key on power to the carb soleniod this one was the other way around so stuffed relay was not switching power to the carb solenoid = crap running. This was after doing all the normal electric stuff as above. This one here is running sweet now and also check the 2 smaller wires connected to the battery + and running to a plug connector close to the battery make sure they are in good nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hey just spend a few days messing with sons one of these after an unknown oops jump starting. Check the fuel cut off solenoid thats is on the first jet but not the second on the carbe. Get someone to turn the key on an off and listen for a click and the carb each time or leave the key on and unplug the connector leading up to the card it should go click click as you make and break it. No power on this wire causes the car to run like a haunted shit house fine at full noise but won't idel or run smothly down the road. Link that got me to wiring dia http://actualrepair.com/starter-repair/ it was compressed with rar that was a pain and had to print it all and cut a tape it good thought it was quite clear. Funny thing about the wiring dia is the the relay should have switch power to the starter soleniod and key on power to the carb soleniod this one was the other way around so stuffed relay was not switching power to the carb solenoid = crap running. This was after doing all the normal electric stuff as above. This one here is running sweet now and also check the 2 smaller wires connected to the battery + and running to a plug connector close to the battery make sure they are in good nick Just checked this and it all seems to be in good order and clicks away when I unplug/plug it in. Had another go at valve clearances and it runs so much better. Still has the miss but isn't affecting driving. It does have a bit of a tap so I will check in proper light if there is any wear. Still not 100% I have set the clearances properly but it has made an improvement nonetheless. Also had a proper look at my coil and the numbers etc I found read - Bosch .08 -1 +15 F000250007 908 986 Su-12R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Bring it round on Friday mate. Save your money and don't buy a coil, it's unlikely to be that. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Sweet, thanks Valiant. What time is good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 little bit after 7pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Hey, Does your car have a balast resistor conected to the positive side of the coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 No it doesn't. Have been reading on net and I'm thinking this could be the beginning of my problems. When searching the coil number the label clearly says "USE WITH RESISTOR", my label has come off so had no idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Yea, I reckon that that will be your problem, the coil will produce very weak spark if its overheated. On the plus side they aren't very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Have you got your original coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Have you got your original coil? Nah didn't come with it when I bought it. Would putting a resistor on be a good start then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Not necessarily - measure the resistence between the 2 low tension terminals on your coil (thats the two 6mm posts on either side of the large post in the centre) It should be around 3.0 - 3.4ohms - if it is around 1.5-1.7ohms it may be incorrect. Though I'm just trying to remember if KE70's used an external ballast or not from factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 That part number he posted is for a 7v coil K-Trips, and all the ke70's I've seen had them. Make sure that when you put it in you do it properly so you get the advantages of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Not necessarily - measure the resistence between the 2 low tension terminals on your coil (thats the two 6mm posts on either side of the large post in the centre)It should be around 3.0 - 3.4ohms - if it is around 1.5-1.7ohms it may be incorrect. Though I'm just trying to remember if KE70's used an external ballast or not from factory. Just measured it and it came out at 1.9ohms... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Make sure that when you put it in you do it properly so you get the advantages of it. Elaborate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Then that coil you have then is designed to run with an external ballast. If you don't have one then you'll need one. (and most probably a new coil cos it would have been cooked without an external ballast) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Hot shit, may be getting somewhere with this. A bit disappointed that my auto sparky and mechanic didn't pick up on this though... Is it possible to just chuck in a coil that has a ballast or best to go with coil same as current and have external ballast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 The reason they have external ballast resistors is so that when cranking the starter it by passed the resistor and gives it 12v instead of 7, this makes the spark more powerful and enables easier starting. So when you put in the resistor and coil then also makes sure you hook up the bypass wire to take advantage of the easier starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 ^this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DangerousPerson Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 Huge thanks to Pete (Valiant) for spending his Friday night going over my car and ruling out various issues. Have ruled out plugs, leads, carby, blown head gasket and have come to the conclusion it must be with the way the coil has been wired in. Am going to put in a new non ballast coil and wire it in properly and will post the results. Is running heaps better, timing is set properly and valve clearances are all good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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