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Hi great project you got going there, a good link about the dizzy mod here http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/hitachi.pdf theres a link at the end to the 123 unit very nice $$$ though I found this mod close to 10 years ago can't find text on that but I had the chance then to get 2 dizzies a D4R80-08 pulsar I think and a D4R83-36 think sentra, the info I found back then said one was good for a standard engine and the other more suited the modified one not sure which one is which now. Fast forward to a few weeks back finaly draged from storage I bench tested a 1275 alegro engine with the pulsar one it runs fine the motor has a DHLA 45 Dellorto on it and when tested no vacuum hoses on and don't know how the dizzy curve will work out as can't road test for some time yet I just wanted to test the mod. In the link info they say cut the swing arm off turn down or file the base to fit the mini clamp I traced the mini clamp on to some sheet and included extra metal for the swing arm and a sloted hole with a bolt and a recangle nut that rocks when tighten and locks against the block a heck of a lot easier to adjust the timing than the mini clamp. Also thinking of un screwing the vacuum unit and redrilling the locking hole 180 deg so the connecting pipe comes out away from the engine. now the important bit yours 1) the link pics of the mod and my running dizzy have the vacuum unit 180 deg from yours 2) mine would only fire when I first tried it and by what I can see in the pic you just may have made the same opps as me, us mini nuts have firing order 1-3-4-2 brain implanted but the dizzy turns anti clockwise so looks like cylinders 2 and 3 ht leads are backwards and would hate that to seal your thunder and stop a first crank fireup for your rebuild. Cheers may your build go well

Have you checked power to the fuel cutoff soleniod on the carby the wires spade terminal can easy become lose and/or fall out caught me out a while back it sure stops the motor dead quick. Cheers

hi done this before on a mini with old surfboard racks on. With a short tape on over size pipe on the roll over side so the roof egde was supported and no weight or dents on the side panels while flipping over on roof. Once there it was well supported where I then dropped it on to a wheeled frame. The ply idea listed before not a bad idea as well or mod that (i.e. free what have you materal) and use pipe or wooden 4by2s "A" frame BBQ table type legs and with mates flip it over and have it sitting on table legs. Just think about weight, support and bracing and you can do it for practically no cost. The advantage of the methods above is that you can still see all of the panels and see that none are being damaged or are under pressure plus you can take your time and pop it back in the shed. Have fun the world needs more fun

Hey just spend a few days messing with sons one of these after an unknown oops jump starting. Check the fuel cut off solenoid thats is on the first jet but not the second on the carbe. Get someone to turn the key on an off and listen for a click and the carb each time or leave the key on and unplug the connector leading up to the card it should go click click as you make and break it. No power on this wire causes the car to run like a haunted shit house fine at full noise but won't idel or run smothly down the road. Link that got me to wiring dia http://actualrepair.com/starter-repair/ it was compressed with rar that was a pain and had to print it all and cut a tape it good thought it was quite clear. Funny thing about the wiring dia is the the relay should have switch power to the starter soleniod and key on power to the carb soleniod this one was the other way around so stuffed relay was not switching power to the carb solenoid = crap running. This was after doing all the normal electric stuff as above. This one here is running sweet now and also check the 2 smaller wires connected to the battery + and running to a plug connector close to the battery make sure they are in good nick