BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 ok so just went and had another look at the idle jets, i have a 45 primary and 50 secondary. this should be pretty perfect and definitely not present the issues i have. so full run down on whats going on since ive been all over the place. i cannot get the carb to idle at any speed, i expect if i went to something crazy like 3k it would but thats just stupid. in order to keep the engine running i need to PUMP the gas pedal. when driving it feels jerky when on the primary and when i open the secondarys up i get a spluttering sound that reminds me of a modern drift cars rev limiter or something along those lines. when i wind out the primary idle jets holder bolt i can get a pretty smooth idle and really nice performance from the carb, just i get run on/dieseling and i noticed that the engine can actually start to spin backwards. besides, those bolts are supposed to be wound right in. might also put this in place of the first post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 check timing and that you are running the correct spark plugs (ie not too hot). also run 95 petrol, that fixed mine instantly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Did you give it that tune as I suggested?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 im trying to give it a full tune up, the factory specs say i need NGKbp6es and it has NGKbpr5es, i have read that incorrect spark plugs can cause it, are these plugs different enough to be an issue, and the car never did this with its normal carb, i need to get ahold of a timing light, but should the timing be the same as factory, even when i change the carb? cause i set the timing a few months ago, and again it never did this a day ago when i had the factory carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 just do whatever kk says, he is the man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 i read your version of this thread to do with the hunter, however i may have just fixed it, turns out one of the tuning bolts wasnt actually a tuning bolt, its one that holds in an idle jet, winding it out let it idle well, but caused run on, so i would this in properly and its all good, but now i can get it to idle. so either i need to look more on tuning the weber or im missing something, since the idle adjuster dosnt let it idle even if its would right it which as i have read is bad anyway. thread title edit aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 is the idle adjuster you are talking about the idle enrichment screw or does the actual idle screw that adjusts the stop postion of the throttle wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 an ngk 5 range plug is probably way too hot. slam some 6s in there. whack a little more fuel on the idle circuit check timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 the idle adjuster i talk about is the screw that actually moves the throttle lever. and a set of proper plugs are on the shopping list. ive set the enrichment screw to backed out 2 turns as the base setting should be, but it wont idle. is there some sort or adjuster screw that im missing? also does not idling affect a wof? im due for one tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Did you seal the carb using silicon by chance? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 nope, used carb manifold gasket sheet, out of curiosity, would would happen if you used silicone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Have had issues with silicon breaking down very quickly and causing stalling at lower revs. Just thought I would throw it out there incase. Wind mixture screw out further and see if it idles.. generally 2 screws out is about right however. No idle wont effect WOF but will piss them off, wind the idle up for WOF so it will idle. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 i dont think im gonna go for a wof till i get this sorted, it coughs and splutters when it opens the secondarys and even if i hold the gas pedal down it wont idle, it needs to be pumped. this is quite confusing since when i had the the other jet on the side screwed out a bit as if it was a tuning screw the carb performed amazingly, good power and smooth idle, it would just diesel when i tried to stop, and as i noticed, spin the engine backwards sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 If yours is a DGAV, pop the short vacuum hose off the enrichment diaphragm on the back of the carb. I reckon it will be full of fuel. The enrichment valve diaphragm leaks and causes raw fuel to get sucked past it at idle vacuum. 2 of my 3 Webers had this fault and caused shitty insanely rich idle and a splutter on the primary circuit. It got progressively worse until the car barely started. Used to run on heaps too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 i have a proper weber 32/36 on the car and another one that is the Spanish remake of it, only the Spanish remake has that little unit. should this be on all carbs? and should i see if i can put this unit on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 My weber is Italian built and has it.... I think the DGAV got it but the DGV didnt. If yours doesnt have it then that cant be the problem. What size idle jets are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 i took the idle jets out but couldnt see any markings, i did consider this being the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 mine is definitely a DGAV, however i took the choke off since it was incomplete and i didn't want to have to hook it up when i can simply use throttle control for 2 mins in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 got any spare idle jets you could try? 45 or 50 would be a good place to start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 i have the two from my parts weber that i can try, the 45 - 50 was posted on my 18r weber specs now that you mention it. would the wrong idle jet cause this?, i do also need to fine tune my timing, so ill grab my grandads timing light at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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