Brock-Lee Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 /dont drive it at all. If there is a big air lock it will overheat with or without a blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trej Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I can't help you with the overheating problems, but if your brakes are "pooz" it sounds like you might be having problems with your flush valve- a bit of plumbing would be advisable and maybe some disinfectant. Congrats on the successful test drive though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 just to be clear, I suggested removing the blower from the system (in terms of plumbing only), because it could just as easily be a denotation issue, so it might in fact stop overheating if thats the case. Is there a knock sensor hooked up to the ecu (correctly) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 Everything on the ECU is plugged into where it should go. Not detonation and the blower belt is slipping and putting out a whopping 0psi! Or because I havent checked that it is hooked up electrically. So may not even be engaging the clutch on it. I'm pretty sure it is that top pipe so that is the job for tomoz morning (possibly) Not driving it again till it is solved. And I'm sticking a large bottle in the overflow to see what is happening. Will update tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 Was out there today, Fitted a new water guage. But didn't have time to test. The water pump is sweet, and radiator is sweet, however, the radiator fan is not... Fix that next time I am out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted September 26, 2010 Share Posted September 26, 2010 So did you change the pipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 I stuck a bolt and nut on it, welded it on it, for the sensor of the new water gauge, also means I can fill it up from there, so yes, top pipe is now the new fill (or top up to be full) inlet. yay. When I get out there next I'm checking the radiator fan/replacing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I stuck a bolt and nut on it, welded it on it, for the sensor of the new water gauge, also means I can fill it up from there, so yes, top pipe is now the new fill (or top up to be full) inlet. yay.When I get out there next I'm checking the radiator fan/replacing it. dude, that pipe needs to the straight. you haven't resolved the problem there is always air in water systems.<-- edit: this is the result of not thinking before posting, .. you say something wrong and stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 I understand what you are saying. But, That is the full point now. Once filled, screw in the water temp sensor. I don't understand as it is now the filling point? It is sealed at the radiator cap... If you saying there is always air in the system then how does it matter if the fill is the highest point? If it was flat, then the pipe of the block would be the highest... Even worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 reply in edit above. opps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 So wait, did I fix it? Just checking haha as I might be taking it out for a drive now that the charger and radiator fan is hooked up. I also bled it so that it was full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Sounds like you should have it sorted... but it'll probably be a bitch to bleed up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yea, I though of jacking the car up so the radiator was highest when filling, but now it's seems fine Gotta fix one little leak from the radiator bung with some thread tape and then take it for a drive and watch the water temp meter very closely. hahaha, atleast radiator and blower is working now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Just another thought - it might be an idea to make a specialised filling funnel for this so the level sits higher than that pipe while your bleeding the system. Then when you're done you pull the funnel out and place the cap on quickly and ensuring it's well bled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 I'll see how it goes filling up the radiator tomorrow as I had to run out before I had a chance. Kinda over spending money on this thing, just wanna get a warrant and go from making life easier/improving from there. hahaha. Good idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Could eventually change to this style intercooler http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 062563.htm Then you could get rid of the intercooler pipe running across the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 Yea, it's been mentioned before. We can't find an intercooler small enough with inlet and outlet same side, so we are going to mod the current VR4 one in there. That is most likely the first performance orientated upgrade along with intake/filter piping after the warrant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 Try a Mazda Bounty turbo diesel intercooler - IIRC they are about the size of an A4 piece of paper (perhaps a little bigger) and have inlet/outlet on the same side.. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/325 ... 360a5c.jpg You can just see it in this pic - I can't link it directly though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 678232.htm mod the pipes a little and it could be win? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomypg Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I'll look into that, try and find one when the time comes. Dylan said he could mod what I have now which fits perfectly in there. it's not really the width but the height. It's about 8 inches high. But about 20 long. And hellraizer, that intercooler looks sooo fugly. Because the cooler is at the front of the car, really visible, I kinda wanna keep it nice... :s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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