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tomypg's 1973 Hillman Hunter


tomypg

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  • 1 month later...
Charge your battery or chuck a jumper battery on - the voltage may be a bit low for everything to work properly while its cranking..

We tried it with the battery we had in there since testing, A deep cycle marine cranking battery, has started it in the past. and we tried the battery out of my mums car too. We have charged the big battery over the weekend, so hopefully we can see if it works when I am out there next.

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I'll check that out next time I am out there, Kinda doubting it as we didn't take that of or anything, we opened the cover just to check that it wasn't not connecting on the point and made sure we placed it back in the exact same place (We had marked it )

EDIT: Thanks Mods for clearing that up.

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re- not starting.

First thing; all engines need to run is compression, air, and fuel, and spark at the right time.

So, one of those IS missing, this means it's either,

no fuel.

no spark

no compression on all cylinders (not likely so lets rule that out: running on 1-2-3 cyclinders it would still 'thump')

or no air (not all that likely either, in so far as I know Earth still has an atmosphere)

So, your probably is likely to be either spark or fuel.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

- if your motor passes all the above, it could still be a compression problem, so the next thing to do is check for compression, and check that the cambelt has not jumped a few teeth, and wreaked the relationship between the bottom and top of the motor which would mess up the compression because the valves are open at the wrong time. this usually happens when the cambelt tensioner suddenly gives up.

- after all that, I would make SURE the ECU is on as well, by that I mean make sure the diagnostic light is coming on, and run diagnostics if you know how, otherwise, just confirm it has power at the right time.

that should keep you busy, a few easy simple tests, and some more complex ones, takes notes as you go, you'll probably end asking someone for advice and you want to be able to explain what you've done when your asking for help because it helps narrow things down, also if the motor fires at all, note that down as you go, often things get 'slightly' better before they get solved

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re- not starting.

First thing; all engines need to run is compression, air, and fuel, and spark at the right time.

So, one of those IS missing, this means it's either,

no fuel.

no spark

no compression on all cylinders (not likely so lets rule that out: running on 1-2-3 cyclinders it would still 'thump')

or no air (not all that likely either, in so far as I know Earth still has an atmosphere)

So, your probably is likely to be either spark or fuel.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

Actually did try this, still didn't start

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

Spark is there, been tested on all cylinders

- if your motor passes all the above, it could still be a compression problem, so the next thing to do is check for compression, and check that the cambelt has not jumped a few teeth, and wreaked the relationship between the bottom and top of the motor which would mess up the compression because the valves are open at the wrong time. this usually happens when the cambelt tensioner suddenly gives up.

Timing chain, not removed or touched during clean up

- after all that, I would make SURE the ECU is on as well, by that I mean make sure the diagnostic light is coming on, and run diagnostics if you know how, otherwise, just confirm it has power at the right time.

This is what I shall check.

that should keep you busy, a few easy simple tests, and some more complex ones, takes notes as you go, you'll probably end asking someone for advice and you want to be able to explain what you've done when your asking for help because it helps narrow things down, also if the motor fires at all, note that down as you go, often things get 'slightly' better before they get solved

Cheers for the help, will go double check ECU once I am out after exams.

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re- not starting.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

Actually did try this, still didn't start

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

Spark is there, been tested on all cylinders

Try it again, but put the stuff in after the super charger and intercooler, perhaps the spray never reached the engine in enough quantity to enable it to fire, it's pretty weak in terms of octane.

Having, spark, and compression, and fuel = a running engine. somethings missing out of those.

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re- not starting.

This is what I usually do,

- get some engine start in a can, spray that into the air intake, and turn the motor over with a 1/4 pressure on the throttle, if it fires up and runs, it's a fuel problem.

Actually did try this, still didn't start

- if it doesn't, it's a spark problem.

- to test the spark problem, remove one lead from the, leave the spark plug alone, get another old one from somewhere and turn the motor over with spark plug held against the block in a semi-dark place (so you can see the spark).

- if there's no spark, it's a spark problem, (or an earth problem).

- if there is spark, repeat on each cylinder and note on a piece of paper as you go,

Spark is there, been tested on all cylinders

Try it again, but put the stuff in after the super charger and intercooler, perhaps the spray never reached the engine in enough quantity to enable it to fire, it's pretty weak in terms of octane.

Having, spark, and compression, and fuel = a running engine. somethings missing out of those.

We were doing it into the intake manifold. But it's starting now! But it's running like shit. It might be a large vaccum leak though :P

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  • 3 weeks later...

it should standard i think, but since its supercahrged it should have pcv valve on it so you dont pressurise the head under boost. catch can should be fine then. is the crankcase breather under the inlet manifold to the manifold? hows ya super charger hooked up? does it boost all the time? if your crankcase breather goes straight to the inlet manifold with no pcv valve this will pressurse your bottom end on boost and possibly make it have a smoke stack out your top end. just ideas/ramblings

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it should standard i think, but since its supercahrged it should have pcv valve on it so you dont pressurise the head under boost. catch can should be fine then. is the crankcase breather under the inlet manifold to the manifold? hows ya super charger hooked up? To the intercooler then manifold does it boost all the time?Yep, 4psi at idle if your crankcase breather goes straight to the inlet manifold with no pcv valve this will pressurse your bottom end on boost and possibly make it have a smoke stack out your top end. just ideas/ramblings

So, i should be using the catch can on the head breather? Or the bottom end breather? Or should I use this pcv valve into the inlet manifold?

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Blowby? It seemed to be very white smoke, you sure you dont have a leak in you brake booster allowing brake fluid to enter your engine?, however you would also see lots of white smoke out of the exhaust? i remember you having issues with your sump leaking oil, this could also be related to your sump being pressurised by blowby? has the engine been rebuilt? has it been run in and have the rings beded in well? apparently its common to get quite alot of blowby on newly built engines while the rings are bedding in.

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put the head breather on a catch can, and a pcv valve on the one between your manifold to the block, your blocks gotta breathe. got a boost gauge hooked to see what your vacuum is upto or fluctuating, or if ya supercharger is boostin when revved off idle? not an expert on these but maybe someone else can help. gettin it to run on 4 cylinders would be a bonus. is this the cause to the problems?

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It might be that the 4th cylinder is screwing everything around.

On the boost gauge it is reading 4psi at idle and increases as the revs increase, as expected. I'll try to find this darn block breather, cant for the life of me find it. WIll have another peek soon.

Tim, it's only back firing and with black smoke cloud, from the 4th not combusting. Engine does not look rebuilt, worried about rings...

and we relocated the tubing to the brake booster, so nothing should be funny there.

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It's struggling with a fuel or spark thing...

Rings aren't your worry though man, you need to have a correctly placed crankcase breather to stop your oil from being pressurised. It's quite a hard thing to work out but I'd say QCADTA was right with his assumption.

Where are your oil breathers going from/to and do they have any form of valve on the line?

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It's struggling with a fuel or spark thing...

Rings aren't your worry though man, you need to have a correctly placed crankcase breather to stop your oil from being pressurised. It's quite a hard thing to work out but I'd say QCADTA was right with his assumption.

Where are your oil breathers going from/to and do they have any form of valve on the line?

yep, doin this is now a necessity as 4psi WILL pressurise ya crankcase. take it you havent got a workshop manual from the net or googling it? had a quick search but couldn find anything. will keep hunting, this problem has my interest :lol:

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