tomypg's 1973 Hillman Hunter

[tomypg]

So this is the discussion thread for my 1973 Hillman Hunter with a 2t geu transplant and a 4age sc12 supercharger and 5spd box.

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23899

Discuss away! :0

[Simon]

Thats cool! Great first post.

I like the power-train combo

Welcome to the forums man.

[tomypg]

Cheers mate, Looks like there is alot of nice cars on here! Hopefully mine will look anywhere as nice! It's a big power upgrade from my 84 honda city, should be good.

Possibly have her started up on sunday!

Only gripe I have with the car so far is the WRX bucket seats go back far enough for it to be comfortable for me to drive, but means literally no legroom for the back seats We shall see how that turns out.

[tortron]

Honda city Turbo? lush

even in my chevette 4 door there was only 1cm of rear passenger legroom

Front lip would be sweet with no bumpers

[tomypg]

It had turbo spray painted on the side as a joke Got a few double takes from people thinking it was. Turbo cities are harder and harder to come by.

Yea the front looks great without it. BUT the indicators are help on with the bumper, so I want to find some circle indicators, like little domes to replace them. Anyone know where to get anything like that?

[NaN]

BUT the indicators are help on with the bumper, so I want to find some circle indicators, like little domes to replace them. Anyone know where to get anything like that?

try http://www.hella.co.nz/?t=9 this seems close http://www.hella.co.nz/?t=9&pcid=536&sct=1

Neat car, that engine is pretty cool, if I remember correct thats the yamaha cyclinder head that toyota had them engineer up, if it is, it was well famed for flow and design.

So why isnt it running ? wiring issues ?

See how that radiator hose jumps over the induction piping, thats reallllllllly bad .. it will cause air to get trapped behind the bend just like a S-bend in your sink or vanity (bathroom wash-thingy), this means that air instead of water can end up occupying the head, which means no water to cool the head in some part, could well crack it.

I'd straighten that out, and dip the induction pipe or re-route it. ?The highest point needs to be the filling point for the cap, or some other filling point so air can escape.

[tomypg]

It's not running beacause of wiring issues. And looks like its been left for a bit. Had no oil in it, Just dumped 4l in it and barely made it past the Empty line.

Thanks for pointing out the piping. Might fix that, but first need to get fluids into the radiator haha. There is nothing in it. It was missing a whole lot of hose clamps and stuff, that was the first little trip to Bunnings for me So run it under the intake? Not really too flash at piping fab just yet First bit of my learning on that will be the intake on the SC12 for the AFM and filter. No Idea how that is going to go though.

Thanks for the lights, they are exactly what I need for the front, there is a hole each side about 100 diameter perfect for those

Love this forum already, thanks for all the help. This is my first ever experiance with engines and bosy work. I'm pretty good with electrics and not bad with car stereos Can't wait for that part

[Truenotch]

Very cool combo.

The best way I can see if straightening the water line would be to drop the whole intercooler pipe down by 100mm or so OR relocating your filler cap so it sits at the highest point (the second option would be way quicker and easier).

[tomypg]

I'll have a go at it today if it dries out or stops raining enough, I don't own a garage so I just have a tent and tarps, haha.

How would you suggest moving the cap up? I'll go have a look but I didn't know you could just move the cap. Sorry if that sounds a bit stupid

[mikuni]

How would you suggest moving the cap up? I'll go have a look but I didn't know you could just move the cap. Sorry if that sounds a bit stupid

One of these

I've used exactly that on my Vauxhall Chevette engine conversion to get the filler to the highest point because my radiator is tucked away, and it has worked perfectly.

(Called an inline radiator filler incase you need to ask for one/search online)

You could either whip the rad out and get the existing cap sealed up, or just leave it there It may look a little rough but it will probably make filling the rad up much easier, because filling the system up from the remote inline filler is a long process because the water can't flow directly into the radiator.

edit: awesome project by the way!

[lowlancer]

I think you should leave the bumpers on. It's pretty difficult to get the bumperless look right.

Everything else is choice though

[NaN]

It's not running beacause of wiring issues. And looks like its been left for a bit. Had no oil in it, Just dumped 4l in it and barely made it past the Empty line.

engines being left dry is very bad for water seals, they dry out, I would replace the water pump and probably the cambelt if it has one.

Thanks for pointing out the piping. Might fix that, but first need to get fluids into the radiator haha. There is nothing in it. It was missing a whole lot of hose clamps and stuff, that was the first little trip to Bunnings for me So run it under the intake? Not really too flash at piping fab just yet First bit of my learning on that will be the intake on the SC12 for the AFM and filter. No Idea how that is going to go though.

The water pipe must be straight, the bend is the issue. Remove the intake pipe all together, get the other stuff sorted, and then re-do the whole system if it's not quite right, take your time, projects are fun because they make you think and involve creative solutions, I enjoy that more than actually driving them. but thats me. FYI; that intake pipe is FAR to long, the friction involve in air travelling that far negates the intercooler, intake piping should be as short as you can possibly make it, with as few bends as possible.

Thanks for the lights, they are exactly what I need for the front, there is a hole each side about 100 diameter perfect for those

I'd leave the bumper in place, weld up the slots for the lights in it, and have it rechromed at the same time I would shorten it, and make it 'flush with body recesses', see Foose for a how too on that sort of thing,

Love this forum already, thanks for all the help. This is my first ever experiance with engines and bosy work. I'm pretty good with electrics and not bad with car stereos Can't wait for that part

My advice electrics wise is get the diagram for the engine, and open up the loom, loosely cable tie the loom (very loose), and then trace each wire, make sure it's all in good condition, pay special attention to earth connections and make sure they are very very good. Dont use crimp connections (ever), soilder and heat shrink each connection, if you need to make up a board for relays, use perspex, see my capri project for an example. Take you time, wiring is actually pretty easy you just need to have the diagram, the time, and most of all keep excellent records as you go, note down what goes where and why (the why matters), when you make changes to the base loom note them. If you get in over your head, ask for help.

[Beaver]

Saw this on trademe and was thinking how badass this would be....stocked you got it.

I had a hunter last year, are pretty sweet cars. Good luck with getting this going, cant wait to see how it progreesses

[NaN]

I'll have a go at it today if it dries out or stops raining enough, I don't own a garage so I just have a tent and tarps, haha.

Jeese dude, thats not a good working environment, sometimes you can rent a garage from someone for around $20-30 per week, they often come with power too. But hey if you current set up is dry, then meh. I'd be concerned about the safety of running power to an open environment.

[tomypg]

It's water proof, no water getting in anytime soon

Thanks for all the support guys. The intercooler is the shortest piping it can have. Getting an auto sparky too look at it soon, once I save up a bit more. The wiring is truely a mess. Best to get someone who knows what they are doing

Holes are filling in now, nearly got one side going.

Bumpers are off because the front one is bent to high hell and I have no money for a replacement. Rear will look odd without it. So Bumperless it is. Luckily it looks nice without bumpers haha.

[NaN]

The intercooler is the shortest piping it can have......

This would be a perfect solution, bit pricey though, inlet and outlet on the same side, there are other options on trademe that are much cheaper, this ones brand new and pretty pricey even for that.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-313156116.htm

I'm a huge fan of shrink wrapping, if in doubt cover it it plastic .. might help out with the out-doors-thing.

A sparky will hit you up for around 1-2-3k to sorting out the wiring, .. honestly dude, .. it's not hard, you learn as you go. you could sort it yourself for under 2-3 hundred and 2-3wks labour.

[tomypg]

Mate works at a mechanic, mates rates ftw. Going to start doing relays and as much as I can and take it in to a sparky to finish off. Intercooler is the least o my mind but look good that there is an option for intake and output on same side

[Trej]

Looks like a pretty boss ride! What does the interior look like, and what colour do you plan on painting it? Make sure you report back to us when you get it running and take it out for a fang around.

[tomypg]

So tomorrow heaps of work will be done I hope... Definantly get more pictures for the build. Tomorrow will be interior and side trim holes filled in. Yay sanding

[David]

"]

BUT the indicators are help on with the bumper, so I want to find some circle indicators, like little domes to replace them. Anyone know where to get anything like that?

In my 72 I've ended up putting some L200 headlights in and replaced the park light bulb in the headlight-unit with an amber.

The headlights are now the indicators.

This also upgrades you to H4 lamps.

Just depends on who is doing the WOF. Many hot rod guys do it.