DJZ Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Yeah, I don't think soldering them would make a hell of a lot of difference, the O2 wires are still intact anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 Nigel, what the fuck are you smoking.Can i have some? It's a fact dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Love your work man, the gearbox quandary just sparked a thought in the old noggin. When I converted my C110 to 5speed, the gearbox to cross-member mount was out a similar amount and in order for it to fit I had to spin in 180, obviously that won't work on that particular one because it appears as though the mount is symmetrical but if you have any other gearboxes around with asymmetrical mounts it might be worth a gander. I know it's probably what you're trying to avoid but the guy Ed helped out with getting a replacement R31 coupe for, is likely to have the NICS RB20DET up for sale shortly. It should bolt in a hell of a lot easier? I would think the sump and pickup from the 200ZR motor sold to some US chap would almost pay for the whole engine from Shaun/maybe not, but might be worth investigating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Hey man, I've already swapped the sump for a R32 GTS-t front sump & pickup, they bolted straight on. I'm keeping the rear bowl sump incase I decide to put an RB in the Z. There is a gearbox that comes in S12 Sylvias that I think would work, it's a C type gearbox and is in between a long and short box in length, it'd probably be perfect but I can't find one and I've already got 3 other boxes to choose from here, I'll make something work. First pic is the difference between the short C box and short B box, second pic is long vs short C, last pic is long C vs short B. Trying to use the short gearbox with the RB where it is means the gear stick comes up really far forward and the stick already has a big bend in it to bring it back, the hole in the tunnel for the stick to come through is huge as you probably know, so I'll use a long box it just means there'll be the extra expensive of shortening the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Don't be too sure you'll have to shorten anything, the front sections of shafts from different cars come in a myriad of different lengths, I can measure the one on mine and one of my spares. I used one of my spares when I converted my old S12 to 5speed but I'm fairly certain there's at least one other one there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 What measurement did you come up with that the gearbox end of driveshaft needs to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Looks like it needs to be about 10cm shorter than the stock one. From the bolts holding the center bearing on to the end of the output shaft is 40 cm, add 10 cm for the output shaft spline bit makes 50cms, stock one measures about 60cm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 wow, progress on your R30 is lightyears faster than what I'd ever hope to achieve with mine. kudos. A FJ20 box out of a DR is longer than the L20 one you have now (the aussies call the L20 box "stumpy" for a reason) which will in turn make the shifter sit further back, so may indeed be perfect for you. Actually now that I think about it, the disgusting CA18 and Z18 powered R30s probably have the same size gearbox, so you could always try and track down one of those instead of paying takumi tax on anything labelled FJ20... (Old man southern may be along shortly to prove me wrong) How boogy is that coilover setup? still contemplating going down that path on my DR30 sedan. Would be interested to see any photos of how it was all modified/thrown together if you ever bother ripping it all out at some point. My mate with the NICS RB20DET won't be selling up for a while it turns out, but if you're interested I'll give you his contact details for when he finally does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 Looks like it needs to be about 10cm shorter than the stock one. From the bolts holding the center bearing on to the end of the output shaft is 40 cm, add 10 cm for the output shaft spline bit makes 50cms, stock one measures about 60cm. As I said, they come in various sizes for different applications/gearboxes be they manual/auto, etc. I'll check the length of my spare ones and see if they're any use to you. If any of them are you're welcome to them, happy to help out. RE: FJ20 box, I would imagine it's similar in length to a regular S130 length box, to be honest. Ed, just measure yours under the car. Potentially and likely the same length though, as Ed says, as the ratshit poverty Z and CA powered versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 How boogy is that coilover setup? still contemplating going down that path on my DR30 sedan. Would be interested to see any photos of how it was all modified/thrown together if you ever bother ripping it all out at some point. The coilovers I bought off Trademe ages ago for my 280ZX, they apparently came off an R31 in Japan, the rears as you can see from the pics are JIC brand, they bolt straight in. The fronts have just had sleeves welded on the OE tubes by the looks of it, they have adjustable inserts that are probably rooted. Being HR31 struts they do have the 100mm caliper mounts. I've just put the R30 hubs on them for the moment. As I said, they come in various sizes for different applications/gearboxes be they manual/auto, etc. I'll check the length of my spare ones and see if they're any use to you. If any of them are you're welcome to them, happy to help out. That'd be great thanks man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Jesus, even your slow work will be faster than my fast work. Decent and appropriate sized RS-Watanabe's will be easier fetched through YAJ. 5-stud can often be cheaper than 4-stud too. Depending on the diameter and width of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stagefumer11 Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Damn dude, looking through that thread, Its impressive. I need you to come up and kick my ass and help me get mine running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 DJ you need to arse that inlet manifold! Would make your piping look so much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 I thought about getting a front facing plenum but it would have been extra $$$ and I kind of like having the factory one there. They reckon this car was somewhere in the 415rwhp range and it still has a factory plenum (probably heavily ported though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Looks gay as hell. Shit, almost forgot, its a Nissan huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Really, Kevinator? Really? Those in glass houses and all that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 It's alright, Damien and I work together. At least this thing will probably be drivable some time next year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 At least this thing will probably be drivable some time next year! BURN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 dude just found your build, it is freaken sweet...! Have always wanted an r30 or 31. So freaken jealous. have settled for a 240z for now, however, your 280 is also face destroyingly wicked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJZ Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 To the guy that was asking about 5 stud conversions who posted in the wrong place: I haven't started the 5 stud conversion on this car yet, I keep selling the Z31 hubs. If you are having trouble with breaking axles and want to stick to factory looking stuff you could try turbo Z31 axles, they are supposed to be the strongest out of all the factory ones that fit the same as the original R30 ones. I've been using them for a couple of years in my 280ZX, but I don't abuse it that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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