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dspec's drift spec Galant GT


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hey man good to see our type of cars slowly starting to get the numbers together.

what suspension has it got in there? on cutties haha? if you want about 2 degrees more of negative camber up front take the front struts out and grind off the locating pin off the strut top (or just drill a hole in exactly the same place on the opposite side) and spin the strut tops around so they sit in further.

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haha yeah that chime is so annoying. it's not working on my GT I think someone must have ripped it out before hand, I think the previous owner didn't like all the chimes as the interior lamp fuse was pulled out which controlled the door open/headlamp open chimes etc.

I'm sure that front ride height is not stock, I'm sure I've got more tyre to guard gap and I'm rocking standard 195/70 R14 tyres. With those 205/50 R15 tyres you got your speedo will be out a bit too.

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after radiator was filled from nearby cattle trough temp never came above one 3rd an it hauled ass. Yea not sure whats up with suspension, it seems to feel much stiffer than what i imagine standard would be im planin to get a decent setup made for it as all the shocks are pissing out oil anyways, keen to know how you built adjusties on eterna 8)

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^^ pretty much haha.

DSCF0924.jpg

Basically just chopped off the spring perches from both front and rear struts, but for the rear struts chopped off the tops (as they're sealed units), shortened the strut cases to suit SW20 rear shock inserts, then welded a threaded section back on (this was custom made up from scratch to suit the Toyota gland nut, but you could always just use the tops of a spare set of front struts). The front struts just had new replacement Starion KYB shocks fitted. In hindsight I would have shortened the casings of the front struts also and fitted shorter stiffer inserts, perhaps another pair of SW20 rears or V8 Commodore fronts.

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That was the lot I basically took to Wayne, you can see the threaded sleeves, spring perches, locking nuts and the alloy spring top hats which were all purchased from George Stocks (I think that whole lot came to approx $500). The springs and keeper springs themselves were nabbed from a set of GAB Legnum coilovers which had stuffed shocks, paid $100 for them.

We actually ended up making some spacers for the rears to go between the strut top hat and the alloy spring top hats to support the load better as the tube of the alloy spring top hat simply would have been crushed with load on it. I think the tubes were trimmed down a bit for the fronts, can't remember if we ended up making spacers for the fronts also.

The SW20 rear insert has a 14mm threaded shaft instead of the Mitsi 12mm thread but that was easily fixed by drilling out the hole on the strut top hat, whereas on the fronts if you were to run any bigger than 12mm you would have to machine down the shaft and tap a 12mm thread to go through the strut top bearing.

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Finished result. I think with the cost of the coilover parts (ie stuff from stocks, the springs), the cost of new inserts and Wayne's labour it came to around $1200-1300 all up. It's a very basic setup, the aim was to just get it slammed and offer better handling that aftermarket Starion springs could offer - I might look into running Koni SW20 inserts which have damper/rebound adjustment for better control.

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at that adjustment it sat at about this height on factory wheels

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and this height on 205/50 R15s

DSCF0966.jpg

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fuck yeah for new oldschool remakes they aren't bad at all, at least they're a good width and offset, just wonder if the amount of dish is going to correspond to the offset it is.

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