forced Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Just drop the motor a bit. Remake the mounts, notch the sump. Easy as. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Just drop the motor a bit. Remake the mounts, notch the sump. It's so easy I'll do it for free Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Well it's not like I haven't done it before, haha. It always pays to measure things beforehand, just to make sure everything's going to fit without needing anything cutting. But modding the manifold is never a good idea. Done that too. Actually the motor might need dropping quite a bit. Might have to measure it? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 not thaaaat big a deal modding the manifold and its a shitload less work than notching mounts and the sump. dont have to pull the motor out and if it's going to be slammed as hell as I'm guessint it will be then a lower sump is not great. What about a different factory manifold? did they come with any different manifolds in different model cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 I would just cut the steel cover and reshape it. Do it properly and work in with the certifier and it wont be a problem. Thats what i would do. Easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Cant and wont drop motor - sits below sills to far for my liking already. And any lower and itll hit crossmember, only just got enough room to reshape front bit of sump to squezze in. Also, i did talk to certifier and he recommended not cutting covers at all as it gets real hard to prove that the remade piece is as strong as original. Also where the intake comes up through the covers is where the hinge on the passenger seat is, so would mean i would need to replace that too. Redoing intake is to best option so i can leave all the covers and seat mounts factory and easy. Next question: anybody want to tig this up for me? haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Your certifier is just being lazy or is unsure himself what the rules are. Something doesnt sound right, when can build a car from scratch and certify it but you cant modify a engine cover with a seat belt hole. My advice is dont give up on the modified cover, go back to your certifier or talk to another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Your certifier is just being lazy or is unsure himself what the rules are. Something doesnt sound right, when can build a car from scratch and certify it but you cant modify a engine cover with a seat belt hole. My advice is dont give up on the modified cover, go back to your certifier or talk to another one. I dont want to modify the cover. It will affect to seat as and i want to keep the interior parts factory. Manifold mods is the way im going, options is what im after now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 get a custom front facing one made, shouldn't cost more than 400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 get a custom front facing one made, shouldn't cost more than 400 could be mild steel too for easy/cheap fabrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 They can be really shit for even cylinder fill on a 6 cly (especially NA) without decent research, causing the rear cylinders to run rich as shit usually. Hence why most from the factory are centre fed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 looks like a pile of cast aluminium welding to be paying someone for? kachinggg$$$ down draft itbs on tight little 90 degree bends off head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgySam Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 how much does the cover need to be raised by? Could you get away with a spacer or 2 under the hinges and longer bolts? Then just get some fatter/thicker rubber seals to seal any exhaust gases into the engine bay. It may work. Sometimes the simplest ideas are the ones that work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 how much does the cover need to be raised by?Could you get away with a spacer or 2 under the hinges and longer bolts? Then just get some fatter/thicker rubber seals to seal any exhaust gases into the engine bay. It may work. Sometimes the simplest ideas are the ones that work. Good thoughts, but the covers that fowl are bolt in and affect the passenger seat mounts. I think ill just go straight for ITBS, Time to start browsing trademe i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgySam Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 will the ones from a gtir work at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 GTIR ones are a pain in the arse good for fuck all, silvertop all day, you got some after market EFI already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 I think ill just go straight for ITBS, bubblegoose stamp of approval right here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 GTIR ones are a pain in the arse good for fuck all, silvertop all day, you got some after market EFI already? Ya mean ECU? Not yet, but will do, not sure if ill go brandnew or just run an older link. I think ill just go straight for ITBS, bubblegoose stamp of approval right here Oh my, got a semi/hemi going on right now. What material would one recommend to build the runners out of? Steel tubing? wall thickness? Would a few donuts and some straight pieces be fine ? First attempt at something like this. Would ask for other proven designs too but it looks like im stuck with putting them whereever theyll fit atm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 Yea I meant ECU. Alloy is the way to go for the manifold, but steel will be fine if your going poverty spec. How do they have to sit? do they have to curve up or can sit straight out from the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 They could probably go straight out on some really short runners, but wouldnt be alot of space for a filter so a slight upward angle on them would probably work. ill go measure so stuff and make up a quick paint spec diagram. edit: Hope it makes sense. There is actually quite a bit of room. will need to angle them forward as back itb will come out and hit main support panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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