What oil do you use and why?

[EFI_LC]

Simple question.

I would like to know what oil people use as I want as much feedback as possible.

I have been searching the interwebbythingy for info and have come to the conclusion that the oil I use is pretty good.

I am giving my old VK Commy an oil change today and will do my Torana next week.

Question:

What oil do you run in your engine, why do you use it and where do you purchase it.

[filthy one]

Question:

What oil do you run in your engine, why do you use it and where do you purchase it.

Castrol edge sport 25w/50 in the Ponty. Never hada problem with it seems to be good oil.

Castrol edge sport 5w/30 fully synthetic in the wifes WRX . Cos its 350kw & needs good oil.

Castrol Tection HD 15W-40 in my mazda bounty ute. Good oill never had issues with

get oil through work we are Castrol agents

[Vintage Grumble]

I use Mobil 1 as I got 40L of it for free BUT mobil is shit, castrol make much better oil IMO/am a fan of castrol.

[oldrx]

Penrite synthetic - had the most convincing label.

[Rusty]

Royal Purple is Primo but expensive

[FLAWLES]

total

why cause its simply the best in my eyes, run everything on it from work utes...........customers machines/tractors and in my jzx100

has some rad propertys in it too

[CaMpylobacter]

Castrol GTX because I don't know any better.

Used Fuchs in my criz once and it burnt it hardcoan

back to gtx, problem solved.

Will be rolling Total in my puglit/citroen eventually as I get a really good buy on it from a Joker I know.

Roll Total LHM in my wet citroens coz it's the proper shit.

lush

[FLAWLES]

let me know what you get it for as i buy all my total shit direct of the supplier in NZ

LHM is cheap too, and great for wet brakes hahaha

[CaMpylobacter]

yeah my wof guy's tractors run lhm systems. he had a leak in one and couldn't stop working it for like 4 days last hay season (he was double shifting it around the clock) and went through like 10 litre sof it. his supplier was charging himn $35+gst a litre. he almost cried when I told him what i pay hah

[FLAWLES]

sweet jesus 35 a litre

im sure i sell mine for around $8 a litre

mark up much

[CaMpylobacter]

you're under selling it hardcore bud. cheapest I've ever found it is bulk from euromarketing @ $12.50 a litre plus tax.

[Testament]

in the 124 usually castrol GTX and in the turbo delta something like valvoline premium 20W-50 or something from a proper brand that is listed as ok for turbos. I tend to stick to the thicker stuff as all my motors are old and somewhat worn so more oil pressure is peace of mind. But basically if its from a reputable brand and meets API specs mineral oil is largely mineral oil and there isn't much difference between brands. Synthetics is a different kettle of fish, but on old shit that was designed for thick mineral oil I don't see a point in it in most cases, id rather just change oil more frequently and keep an eye on what my motor is doing.

Also I add in a fair whack of Moreys heavy duty oil stabilizer (i.e. at least 500ml) . The reasoning is that almost all oil you buy these days (even GTX) has moved up to the newer API specs which call for lower levels of Zinc and Phosphate as they kill cat convertors. the zinc and phosphate is from a compound called ZDDP which is responsible for alot of anti wear properties and oil film strength that helps flat tappet/fully mechanical valvetrains last rather than just turn into metal filings, and reduces wear at startup and other times when there isn't a good oil wedge in the bearing.

its no miracle cure magic oil additive but it does have some merit imo

[EFI_LC]

Also I add in a fair whack of Moreys heavy duty oil stabilizer (i.e. at least 500ml) . The reasoning is that almost all oil you buy these days (even GTX) has moved up to the newer API specs which call for lower levels of Zinc and Phosphate as they kill cat convertors. the zinc and phosphate is from a compound called ZDDP which is responsible for alot of anti wear properties and oil film strength that helps flat tappet/fully mechanical valvetrains last rather than just turn into metal filings, and reduces wear at startup and other times when there isn't a good oil wedge in the bearing.

its no miracle cure magic oil additive but it does have some merit imo

You answered one of my thoughts.... I have bought some Valvoline VR1 which is said to contain more ZDDP as its sold as race oil to give it a go but my only worry is its 10/40 but I have often wondered how it would go in my old Holden as they always reckoned it should be on 15/? anyway but I have done away with the hydraulic lifters so shouldnt get lifter trouble its just the oil pressure i need to watch. I have some Moreys and wondered if it had any of it.

Thanks again Testament as you helped me on something else early on.

[forced]

Oil is oil isn't it?

It's got far more advertising $$$ spent on it than most other things.

When it gets dirty you change it. As far as how good it is, well that depends on the state of tune of the motor and the fuel it runs on as to how quickly it gets dirty.

I just use ordinary (warehouse) whatever it is in my jappers.

When I was running around in my oldschool daily driver (turbo ford 272V8 on CNG) I used to use re refined 30/40 only because it leaked so much. I even lived at the top of a hill and used to race up it every day and shut it off at the top, no turbo timer either. That must be the only motor that I didn't completely kill, that lasted 8 years before I sold it. I did the same thing with the next motor, that lasted about 5 years before it died due to (detonation) lack of fuel (the turbo is still mint today).

There's more bullshit spoken about oil than a lot of other things, there's more bullshit spoken about cars than most other things.

Got to have enough of it and it's got to be clean.That's it.

Steve

[CaMpylobacter]

read some shit the other day about some goats that leave their old oil for two years, then filter it through toilet paper filters and reuse it with a little additive as they reckon it's just carbon in suspension that is the reason you would change it.

[forced]

they reckon it's just carbon in suspension that is the reason you would change it.

It is.

Running a car on CNG the oil doesn't turn black until about 3000 miles or more. It's pretty much the same running on LPG. Clean burning fuels.

If you're running on petrol and running too rich, oil turns black almost immediately. Like everything else......Cause and effect.

Of course if you've fecked up your cars PCV system by fitting a catch can wrongly (most of them are) then your oil will end up contaminated with water and dissolved exhaust gasses which are acidic and very bad for your motor. Even the most expensive oil can't put that right.

Steve

[FLAWLES]

Oil is oil isn't it?

It's got far more advertising $$$ spent on it than most other things.

When it gets dirty you change it. As far as how good it is, well that depends on the state of tune of the motor and the fuel it runs on as to how quickly it gets dirty.

Steve

theres a fuck load to oil man, aditives and minerals etc, advertising my arse

do you know how many different types/grades of 5w/30 there are? shit loads

have you herd of diesel particale ( sp? ) filters and the special type/grade of oil you HAVE to use ( come out on most tier 4/5 desiel engines and i would hope 90% of the mechinac's here should know about this type of thing ), that for a fact is not just an " oil marketing scheme

i will garebtee this will be on most if not all car/ute/truck/tractor engines in the next two years..............its on most euro import deisels now

now im rambaling

oil is not just oil, i dont sit and sleep through a 3hr coarse about oil yearly cause i want to

[forced]

Diesels are Diesels, they don't burn cleanly compared to other fuels, that's why you use oil formulated for Diesels in a diesel rather than for petrol engines. I've never owned a Diesel either.

Motor oil is made to a standard, SF, SG, whatever it's up to these days. So long as it's the right standard, it's OK.

Every salesperson is always going to push their own brand because that's what they sell.

More to the point, what brand does it say to use in the owners manual?

Steve

[FuzzayD]

I prefer using the cheapest oil and changing regularly other than that i've been told synthetic oil is lighter and flows quicker for miner formance increase 0w 40 also that fully synthetic doesn't require as much changing.

[Mick Doohan]

Oil is oil isn't it?

It's got far more advertising $$$ spent on it than most other things.

When it gets dirty you change it. As far as how good it is, well that depends on the state of tune of the motor and the fuel it runs on as to how quickly it gets dirty.

Steve

theres a fuck load to oil man, aditives and minerals etc, advertising my arse

do you know how many different types/grades of 5w/30 there are? shit loads

have you herd of diesel particale ( sp? ) filters and the special type/grade of oil you HAVE to use ( come out on most tier 4/5 desiel engines and i would hope 90% of the mechinac's here should know about this type of thing ), that for a fact is not just an " oil marketing scheme

i will garebtee this will be on most if not all car/ute/truck/tractor engines in the next two years..............its on most euro import deisels now

now im rambaling

oil is not just oil, i dont sit and sleep through a 3hr coarse about oil yearly cause i want to

yeah anything comon rail or later we only use genuine shit on ...

they have viscosity sensors now ... and if you get it wrong .... they just simply wont run

as far as petrol oil

i change the oil in my truck every 500km ... because its free

workmate runs diesal oil in his teza .. but thats for the propertys of it to look after his welded cams ... he changes every 5000km .. ts always clean .. and the car makes over 250rwkw .....

and he runs a stinky linky