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Suspension rear end, shocks/springs


Gaz

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Edit... there are no top links on it at the mo. Are the short bits coming forward just so you can bring the link out before it goes on an angle?

Yeah no top links placed on it till its set in between the frame rails, but they are shorter and run parallel to the frame rails.

the short bits comming forwards(off the lower link bars) are just to provide some weld surface and make a bit of a feature gusset which ties in with the rest of the build. Im just working out the upper link bar frame connections in CAD ready to send off to the profile cutter at the mo. which is proving abit more of a mission that i first thought it would be.

In your situation Gaz id be tempted to use the stock spring perch and run the tri-angulation in the opposing direction with some mounts close to the diff head on the axle housing.

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In your situation Gaz id be tempted to use the stock spring perch and run the tri-angulation in the opposing direction with some mounts close to the diff head on the axle housing.

Had thought of that and was wondering how viable it was. Would mean I wouldn't have to make a brace to go from rail to rail and around the driveshaft tunnel for the diag links to mount to. Alot would depend on the angle they put the link on tho. Have read that between 42-47 degrees is ideal. Can always move the front leaf eye somewhat to change degree but it could be miles out, without looking its any ones guess.

Running the parallel links through the floor is fine as I am running no back seat. Linking them to a roll cage is prob a really good idea? and can prob be mocked up to work before a cage is made.

Wanna share them .dwg files? :mrgreen:

Gaz

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Seriously: what the heck is wrong with the suspension you already have?

If you are going to put stupidly large wheels on it then by all means move the shocks inboard a touch (if they foul the tyre) but do you really expect to achieve much apart from reduced money and increased effort by going to coil springs instead of leaf springs on a live axle?

Are your wheels really so big that they will fill the guards AND need the springs moved inboard?

buy a honda

Lubs

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Have you checkeed out turbosport.co.uk they will have all the answers you need. One dude has linked his mk2 just using the front spring mounts and the top arms are just like the factory anti tramp bars. also has panhard rod. But if you not worried bout cuttin up the floor the best way is just use and 4 parrallel arms and panhard.

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Seriously: what the heck is wrong with the suspension you already have?

If you are going to put stupidly large wheels on it then by all means move the shocks inboard a touch (if they foul the tyre) but do you really expect to achieve much apart from reduced money and increased effort by going to coil springs instead of leaf springs on a live axle?

Are your wheels really so big that they will fill the guards AND need the springs moved inboard?

Am shortening diff and want to have as much dish as I can for looks and use. If im paying to get a rim widened why not widen it as much as I poss can. The stance of the car I want needs heaps of dish IMO. Wheels are only 16". Are three piece so the diff will be shortened to bring the inner side of it as close to the chassis rail as I can.. i.e 10mm if I move the turret to the other side. Then Gavin is making me new outer shells to fill the guards. This will make around a 10-11" wide rim which is perfect for my tires I have.

Suspension I already have is old and once lowered this much the springs will be going upside down!!! Plus I will need tramp rods so why not just add another two making a 4link system. The diff is being modified if I go with leaf or coilovers so why not make the most out of my turrets and incorporate a coilover.. I will be buying new shocks anyways so yupyup. Also I want to do something different and want to learn how to do all this shit. I want to have the tunability there if I need it plus easily adjustable ride height for different days :D

So yeah thats the reasoning behind it. Poss not the best reasoning but it is reasoning none the less. :mrgreen:

Gaz

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Have you checkeed out turbosport.co.uk they will have all the answers you need. One dude has linked his mk2 just using the front spring mounts and the top arms are just like the factory anti tramp bars. also has panhard rod. But if you not worried bout cuttin up the floor the best way is just use and 4 parrallel arms and panhard.

I hate turbosports forum it just pisses me off layout wise so I choose not to go there. Chris emails me enough links that I get to see enough haha. He hasnt found me many decent link systems yet tho!

Gaz

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Have you checkeed out turbosport.co.uk they will have all the answers you need. One dude has linked his mk2 just using the front spring mounts and the top arms are just like the factory anti tramp bars. also has panhard rod. But if you not worried bout cuttin up the floor the best way is just use and 4 parrallel arms and panhard.

I hate turbosports forum it just pisses me off layout wise so I choose not to go there. Chris emails me enough links that I get to see enough haha. He hasnt found me many decent link systems yet tho!

Gaz

I havn't even looked for you goat fucker i just so happened to see a minute bit of info on it there is more into on there than you will find anywhere else in the hole entire world i believe less UJ's workshop

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Suspension I already have is old and once lowered this much the springs will be going upside down!!!

Dear Gaz

In regards to leaf springs having a negative arch (i.e. inverse of most factory leaf spring archs), a leaf spring is plainly just a flat piece of spring steal with an arch in it. The fact that the arch is now rainbow shaped instead of half pipe shaped is neither here nor there. You will find that many vehicles out there, although not as common; accommodate an 'inverse' arch leaf design.

Yours faithfully

Chris

p.s.

Wheels are only 16"

16's, no matter how wide are still 16" wheels on a Ford Escort and I cannot condone this.

Again, yours faithfully

Chris

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