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ALTERNATOR NOT WORKING


My name is Russell

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Have been having alternator problems for months now

Just put in one that I 100% know works

Have just solid wired a wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the back of the alternator that tells it to turn on

But its giving fickle results on min it will be reading 14V at the battery the next min nothing

Sometimes i can turn the kill switch off and the car still runs of the alternator then the next time i try it she stalls a doz times in a row

The two positive wires that shoot of the back of the alternator into the loom were do they go off too? what could be faulty with them as they are the last thing i could thing of there being a problem with.

Should i solid wire them back to the battery?

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The alternators bushes stuffed out

so Aiden and i got a new one tested it on bench and it worked fine

fitted it and it didn't go on the car

traced back the bottom wire forget the name again that activates it to turn on found it went back to an earth when we needed a positive so we figured the old one musn;t have needed an earth as we had been told some don't.

so fed a 12v feed to the back of the alternator, on Friday it put out 14v sat none Sunday 14v today none sort of deal is what im getting now

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Really? You did not add an extra gauge, light, wire, hose, weld or anything whatsoever in the week leading up to the alternator failure?

Nope nothing whats so ever

Its been temperamental for a while now

You slack cunt.

Took me ages to work out that it was the alternator i thought it was just bad connections to the battery

I now has 6 alternators but cant get any to work!?!

Can i just wire all 3 of the red ones back to the battery?!

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most probably getting a feed back from something when you melted all those wires in the fire...

sounds epically cunty to find..

The thing i dont understand is i have effectivbely hard wired it ... there are only 3 terminals that one of it

the two large red wires just join each other and go directly the the battery i presume

the the other wire is directly going to the battery

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Seriously now:

Your alternator will have four circuits:

1) The power feed to the battery. This will be the tickest wire and is possibly brown, it feeds positive voltage into the circuit.

2) The exciter wire. This tells the alternator to charge the circuit when the ignition is on and the alternator is spinning. The purpose of that signal wire (the exciter) is to prevent accidental discharge of the battery via. the alternator when the engine is not running. The exciter wire needs positive voltage.

3) The "idiot light' wire. This wire turns OFF the red light on the dash that tells you that the alternator is not charging. I THINK that light is switched to earth (like and oil pressure light) rather than to positive but I can not remember.

4) The earth. Your alternator is earthed via. the bolts, bracket and engine block. Do you have a relaible earth between the block and the chassis and is the battery well earthed to the chassis?

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most probably getting a feed back from something when you melted all those wires in the fire...

sounds epically cunty to find..

The thing i dont understand is i have effectivbely hard wired it ... there are only 3 terminals that one of it

the two large red wires just join each other and go directly the the battery i presume

the the other wire is directly going to the battery

I have no idea dude -half the problem sounds like you are blindly connecting wires to the battery and or the ignition hoping for it to run..

I would say

1 - would go to the ignition switch

2 - would go to the idiot light on the dash

3 - would go to the battery

Thats my guess but I am far from knowledgable on eletrickery

edit - what Jake said..

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Last time i looked at a scrote alt the plug on the back of it was quite brittle and make very average contact.

Gave all the contacts some love with a file or other such abrasive device and all was well in scrote land.

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If you are simply changing the 2 pin plug into each alternator as you replace it, be aware that these may have different polarities between say lucas and mitsi types for example.

I had similar problems when I changed out my original alternator for a refurbished Lucas, cottoned on to the fact that the DC in was always energised even with the ignition turned off. Cut the stupid plug off, put a couple of female spade terminals on and physically swapped the wires on the alternator... Never looked back or had a problem since.

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What it comes down to.......is the fact that you need a wiring diagram for the car. Different types of alternators work differently, likewise different cars use different way of switching the light.

As an example a typical lucas alt with inbuilt reg has only 2 wires . One, the thick one goes to the battery. The other goes to the warning light.

The other side of the warning light has battery behind it when the ignition is on. The light will glow with the ignition on, as the current through the light flows through the rotor, to ground via the reg to excite it.

When the alternator is spinning, the alternator becomes self exciting so the voltage at the warning light (coming from the alternator)wire rises to 12V and the light goes out.

Steve

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