grdwalker Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 why is the booster in the mk2 so big, it runs just about the length of the engine bay. is it even needed? or can you swap it out with a smaller one? im worried my side carbs mite not fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 I ran mine with no booster, just the stock master cylinder bolted to the firewall (need to open the hole out a tiny bit) and shortened factory rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESKIN8R Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Your doing a 2lt conversion aint ya? If so what are you worried about, carbs are on the other side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grdwalker Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 true true, my bad, was thinking bout something i just read, dunno why i did tht, the manifold should clear nicely, i hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESKIN8R Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 You may need to shift the battery to the boot to gain a bit more room in the engine bay. And would depend how long your inlet manifold is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 FAIL of the day.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 are you useing headers at all? if so stick to the long ugly booster as it works and if you changed it to the master cylinder bolted to the firwall like i did you will have the same problem as me the heat from the exhaust heated up the brake flued and locked my barkes on so just keep it standard booster. my 2 cents dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 FAIL of the day.... thats a bit harsh, we could say that of your projects if you dont like the look of it just run them unboosted as others have said, or if you want to keep a clean engine bay run remote one from pbr or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 its true,i wont deny it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 are you useing headers at all?if so stick to the long ugly booster as it works and if you changed it to the master cylinder bolted to the firwall like i did you will have the same problem as me the heat from the exhaust heated up the brake flued and locked my barkes on so just keep it standard booster. my 2 cents dan To get around this you can wrap the master in a bit of heat wrap and an alloy heat shield can make a big difference too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 are you useing headers at all?if so stick to the long ugly booster as it works and if you changed it to the master cylinder bolted to the firwall like i did you will have the same problem as me the heat from the exhaust heated up the brake flued and locked my barkes on so just keep it standard booster. my 2 cents dan To get around this you can wrap the master in a bit of heat wrap and an alloy heat shield can make a big difference too. where can i get this, as i need it to hide some rust under my heater buldge cant be fucked fixing it yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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