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hunted's 79 hunter


Beaver

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Hi just new to this oldschool link. and had a look threw your messages. Ive been playing with hunter's for years and noted your having problems with the back end just like every one else do'es. I use a MK2 escort sport assembly and replaced the metric studs with Mk1 escort 7/16" studs to keep the 4x108 and 7/16"RH stud pattern. These back ends are a lot easyer to pull apart than the rootes assembly and a lot more gear ratio's avaliable.

There is a bit of fun fitting it. a custom handbrake cable needs made and cut some spring mounting points off a rootes housing and welding them to the escort housing. the Mk2 also has a sway bar in the rear that can be mounted to the hillman under body.

This also makes the back end norrower. by about 2". this lets me fit 14x8" crager's with 235x50x14 eagers on them in the rear. With a little guard rolling.

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As for the front end I shortened the struts by removing the shock out of the tube and cutting 2" out of the tube below the spring base and welding it back together and fitted a toyota gas insert back in the tube (these tubes are a standard diameter so plenty different hight shocks are avaliable). and did'nt change the springs.

The front sway bar may bind the front end up when lowered by 60mm making a very solid ride. I machined the rod between the sway bar eye and swing arm down to bring the sway bar back the normal angle.

Also putting twin sway bars in the front when lowered, prevents the large bodyroll that didn't matter a full ride hight. also cuts down on nose dive when braking.

doing the front end well transforms the car's ride will make it feel like it's running rails but the 2.5deg camber after lowering will do that and kill tires.

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There is plenty to up the power output of the motor. fitting some twin strombers, kelford f12 under cut cam grind and lightened flywheel will double the tractable power and not be too hard on the drive line. This is as far as you can go with out coprimizing reliability with an older motor.

Think cam grind was about $120, lightened flywheel $50 and twin carbs on manifold $50

At this point the lowering blocks will be a curse as the rear leaf springs will coil and make the rear axle tramp under acceleration. and need to be driven with a light foot or anti tramp rods put in. (If the car isn't lowered then this isn't a problem)

My motor has been taken way past this point and it's a mish to keep the drive line in order and stop breaking things. Turns into a hobby just keeping it on the road. but a lot of fun to drive.

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  • 2 months later...

haha yeh its not a embaresment anymore :D

i rekon it looks fukn mint in black cuase it sets off the chrome trim and that. ive got paint for it, but am undecided on if ill paint it. cause the body has a few dings and that so would be a fuk load of work as if i was going to do it id want to do it properly.

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are the rims 13x7's

They have a desent dish on them. I brought some new not so long ago and they just had a big spacer cast into the back of them and bugger all dish. What your've got is what i wonted. Mag place didn't recon they could be done.

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  • 2 months later...
So what've you got now,

Saw this parked near guncity/henrys liquor on way to work this morning, on ford rostyles.. Improvement :wink:

haha ive got a mk2 cortina now. spent a few hard hours over the last week getn if wof ready, has been off the road for nearly 12 months. hopefully ill have it on the road before/over the weekend.

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So what've you got now,

Saw this parked near guncity/henrys liquor on way to work this morning, on ford rostyles.. Improvement :wink:

yep tis my beast now... park it there when i take it to work... had those early Capri/mk3 Cortina GT rostyles at home and thought they would look mint on it...

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