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Turbo swapping, T3 for T3!! Which is better?


zep

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I may have the option to change my turbo.

At the moment I have a T3, taken from an RB25DET engine which is ball bearing and ceramic wheel which is (apparantly) prone to exploding over 12 or so psi.

I have the option to get another T3 from a YB cosworth. Reading some other website tells me that these are good up to about 19psi. Does this mean they are steel wheel.

Also, I'm thinking that a turbo from a 2lt engine would be more suited to my 1.9(ish) engine, rather than one taken from a 2.5lt engine.

Swap worth it?

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Will all depend on housing and wheel size's

For responce, even though the rb25 turbo may be bigger, becasue it is ball bearing will have better responce

The turbo off the cosworth will be fairly old now, and will not be ball bearing, it will handle higher boost beacuase it does have steel wheels

but are you willing to except increase in lag, also being able to make higher boost doesnt nessicarily mean that you will be making more power

As the rb25 turbo is properly flowing more air that is less heated, at 12psi, that the cosworth turbo will be flowing at 18psi

due to the fact that it is a larger turbo and therefore as a much better operating effecentcy

IMO id save your money, for a steve murch rebuild on your 25t turbo

Sorry for the bad england :P

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What kind of moneys does a rebuild cost? And what kind of this would this involve?

Idealy I'd like to get a GT2871R brand new, but they are around $1100.

At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

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I had an IHI VF8 turbo reubilt recently, cost me around $600 including materials. from talking to the guys at the workshop the charges would be similar for just about any turbo as long as nothing important needs to be replaced (such as the shaft, housings or wheels)

process for mine involved dismantling, inspection and cleaning/bead-blasting, "rekit" (rebuild), then reassembly and balancing. After the inspection you get a choice of whether to proceed with the rebuild or not, depending on what the engineers find after the turbo gets taken apart.

a bit on teh steep side perhaps, unless you get lucky and score a turbo off trademe for under $100 whereby it becomes more viable. Or if you have spare turbos lying around "just in case".

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i have no idea but in my mind 19psi>12psi

Yes it is more pressure, but is it more flow?

Higher boost does not mean the turbo is flowing anymore air, the turbo my be operating out of its effecntcy

What kind of moneys does a rebuild cost? And what kind of this would this involve?

Idealy I'd like to get a GT2871R brand new, but they are around $1100.

At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

As you already have a t3 flange, id personally be recomending a gt3071r, as imo anything 28 is to small to make serious power, I have a friend with a gt2871r on his sr20det useing the .63 hot side, he has made 232kw on 16 psi boost, but even with the boost wound up to 20psi made no more power as the .63 exhuast housing in to restrictive, so was recomend to upgrade to gtir .82 exhuast housing

I would say that rebuild and fitting of compressor wheel and steel exhuast wheel would be around the $600 mark depending on were you take it, Id perosnally recomend a1 turbos

It sounds as if the turbo you have already seem to be a pretty good match to your engine, as you are making really good boost at low rpm

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Guest vvega
What kind of moneys does a rebuild cost? And what kind of this would this involve?

Idealy I'd like to get a GT2871R brand new, but they are around $1100.

At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

i sold my boss my old gt3076rs probably be about 1200ish

its currently sitting on the floor in the office doing fuck all

i can ask him if he woiudl sell it ??

has a modded ct20b wrc ex housing on it so its twinscroll and needs needs external wastegates...

made 1 bar at 3000 rpm on a 3sgte

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I bought a GT3071R with .78 twin-scroll housing for my FJ20, the extra grief of having to adapt a split pulse setup should hopefully be offset by superior response compared to either the .63 or .82 housings :|

if not, then I'll cry, or something.

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What kind of moneys does a rebuild cost? And what kind of this would this involve?

Idealy I'd like to get a GT2871R brand new, but they are around $1100.

At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

i sold my boss my old gt3076rs probably be about 1200ish

its currently sitting on the floor in the office doing fuck all

i can ask him if he woiudl sell it ??

has a modded ct20b wrc ex housing on it so its twinscroll and needs needs external wastegates...

made 1 bar at 3000 rpm on a 3sgte

Was wondering what are the major differences between the 76r and the 71r

Also how did you find this turbo ran on the 3sgte, i was going to run the same turbo in the future, once the money treee drops more leaves

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I bought a GT3071R with .78 twin-scroll housing for my FJ20, the extra grief of having to adapt a split pulse setup should hopefully be offset by superior response compared to either the .63 or .82 housings :|

if not, then I'll cry, or something.

Im sure if you get a nice manifold made, the results will be impressive, you only have to look at the cheap china twin scrools alot of guys are using on there 4agte on toyspeed to see the advantage of the twin scrool manifold's

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At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

Thats really mint!

Also, ya dont reabuild Ballbearing turbos as it isnt worth it, will be very close if not more than the new GT series. To rebuild them it would be a whole shaft as the wheels are stuck on.. Or is that just the BB T28's?

Gaz

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At the moment the turbo I have is fully spooled to 12psi at 2300rpm or close to.

Thats really mint!

Also, ya dont reabuild Ballbearing turbos as it isnt worth it, will be very close if not more than the new GT series. To rebuild them it would be a whole shaft as the wheels are stuck on.. Or is that just the BB T28's?

Gaz

Ball Bearing turbos are rebuildable if they are rebuilt before they are fuckt

If you fuck them then expect to be able to rebuild it you got no chance

Os best to rebuild them, before anything nasty happens to them

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what are you trying to achive, from you have told us the rb25 turbo seems like an almost perfect match for your set up

You can rebuild the cosworth turbo, and use it and run 18psi, but you might not make anymore, power, and you might also lose the responce

Just becasue its 18psi, does not mean it is flowing more air, it could jsut be 18psi of hot air

You need to tell us what you are trying to achive by changing the turbo

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I want to gain more power. The current turbo is awesome, I jsut wish it would be able to huff 20psi into my engine.

So I can rebuild it to boost higher? Maybe I should hybrid T3/4?

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I want to gain more power. The current turbo is awesome, I jsut wish it would be able to huff 20psi into my engine.

So I can rebuild it to boost higher? Maybe I should hybrid T3/4?

Bingo, thats the information I was after

You need to tlak to Damian at A1 turbos, or Steve Murch at motorsport engineering

What you need to get done, will be a steel exhuast wheel, larger compressor wheel, and maybe a bigger compressor housing

This will allow you to up the boost on your turbo with out over heating the air, as they will be able to set your turbo up to run more efecntly at higher boost levels

There is nothing wrong with the rb25 turbo, I have several guys make in excess of 250kw with them high flowed on 25ts

That would be the path i would choose, as fitting the cosworth turbo jsut to run more boost is poinless, as it will be operating well out of its effecntcy range and won't provide you with any gains over what you already have now on 12psi

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