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Brake throbbing


peteretep

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i find it hard to belive the those discs woulda warped by now one i dea i just had is to jack up car and semi engage handbrake and see you you can feel noticble highs and lows ...you can fix them *if they are new* by getting a mech to profile them with a on car profiler thing if they are worn however you have to get new ones

I've warped a set of discs with around 500k's on them just bedding in the new pads. Taiwanese CRAP from BNT.

Callum

There's some famous, reputable brake website whose name escapes me, that reckon warped discs are a myth.

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The front rotors in question on retep's car are DBA standard series which I don't think are quite cheap rubbish - the rear rotors are OEM Mitsubishi which were machined probably about 5,000kms before I got them (I converted from drums to discs on the rear, swapped over master cylinder and brake proportioning valve too). Front pads are Bosch, not sure about rear pads.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So me and dave looked at this today, all the disks are within limits

I replaced the rear pads of which one side was wearing at an angle :shock:

note: after replacing pads, push in brake pedal before you tighten the handbrake!! otherwise the handbrake wont work!

Brakes still throb though, dave thought it could be that the wheels arent balanced properly... any thoughts?

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So me and dave looked at this today, all the disks are within limits

I replaced the rear pads of which one side was wearing at an angle :shock:

note: after replacing pads, push in brake pedal before you tighten the handbrake!! otherwise the handbrake wont work!

Brakes still throb though, dave thought it could be that the wheels arent balanced properly... any thoughts?

How did you check the rotors? If you just checked for thickness then that won't help. If you checked for run-out with a dial gauge then that would give you a better idea.

I can't imagine unbalanced wheels only being a problem under brakes - and it certainly wouldn't give you pedal talk.

You have a warped rotor or a rotor with a high spot on it.

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we checked it with a dial gauge on both sides of the disk, nothing was more than 0.1mm out, i was under the impression that you could only feel it when it was more than ~0.17mm

Hmm. Sounds like you are doing everything right. I am at the limit of my knowledge and if it was me I guess I would get the rotors machined on the car - or take it to a knowledgeable brake guy

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it occured to me today thinking about that article above, we should check the thicknesses, the max face runout on the left? front disc was like .08? but if how i remember that article is correct, that would make it .16 thicker than the thinnest point. if it was "warped" as such it would only be .08, that guys pretty adiment there is no such thing so im slightly inclined to belieive him. have you got an external micrometer at yours?

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will bring one home 4 weekend yo/

on another note whats the deal with the pads that are really unevenly worn?

is that a common thing? the pad looks like the caliper floaty arrangement is 10 degrees out of square to the disc, but its not

i apologise in advance for spamming up your thread

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Did you see the pad and rotor changes at Bathurst? Faster than gassing up. :lol:

Also 6-piston calipers with 3 different sized pistons.

The different sizes are to provide a different pressure and clamping rate on the leading edge of the pad than the trailing edge.

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