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Mitsi 4G Ring Sealing.


RWD4G62NZ

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Just wondering if anyone else out there has ever had any problems with

piston rings not sealing or failing to "bed in" on 4G series Mitsi's once rebuilt?

Had a yarn with "Fuel" and he has had a good run with his ones. Having alot of fun with mine so just trying to get to the bottom of it and if I may have done something wrong or some shit.

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Sort of, Did a Cylinder leak down test, though it would be better than compression. BAD!!! Pressure dropped off on 2 cylinders very quickly. A little slower on the other 2 but still shit! Still starts and runs sweet but you can see the blow-by gas pulsing out of my breather bottle!!!

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Found the old box that my rings came in and they were ACL's which as I understand it are of reasonable quality. They are also Chrome rings too so that only adds to the Mystery for me??? I can only agree that it must have had something to do with the time it spent off the road.

Anyway got prices for the new gear for it. $250 for the Hypertec Semi forged Pistons and Pins, $110 for the Hastings rings and $105 for the block Bore out, so I'll probibly go with that.

At least by overboreing the block it will give the rings some fresh metal to Bed in against I spose! Here's hoping cause if that doesn't work she'll be going the same way as LowLancers........Down the fucken road!!! LOL.

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Fuck. Seriously! I never heard that b4. I did use Valvolene running in oil and I did about 850 odd kays. Then pulled her off the road to do the multipoint conversion. Any theroy's on why the running in oil does not work with Chrome rings??? This could be very important to me for when I run it in once she been rebuilt......again!

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Mitsis Dont like re builds. Ive found that most of them smoke after a re ring. The best way to cure this is to re bore & fit new pistons & rings. Most engine reconditioners will tell you this.

There is a very rangi way of kinda curing the problem but its results can be either good or bad. Let me know if you want to know about it.

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All the mitsis I've seen rebuilt with ACL rings don't seem to smoke after they have been bedded in properly. It's important to follow ACL's instructions and not that of a haynes manual etc when it comes to running in.

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Yea, I've heard mixed messages from several very reputable workshops but the common factor seems to be that a simple re-ringing often ends in tears whereas a bore out seems to have better results. Got some good direction from everyone and I appreciate it.

Blueex I presume that you are probibly refering to what we used to call a "Porkbone Re-bore" in which you put either brasso or Jiff or some other abrassive cream down the bore and turn it over alot?

This what you ment???

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Yea, I'm actually a mech and this is the first engine that I have rebuilt that I have ever had trouble with and I've rebuilt a few!!! Block was measured, honed in the normal 65 degree angle crosshatching pattern and rings were installed correctly and oiled correctly. Think that it just might be one of those "BUGGER" type events where things go wrong even though you did shit right.

Another $500 and a few late nights in the workshops will see her right again.

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Oh ok, I tend to coat the bores in CRC/WD40 so they wont deteriorate while sitting and put fresh rings in without oiling them.

Cam, why cant you run running in oil on chrome rings? guessing it wears out the bore instead of the rings as it might with steel ones?

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CAM,

When you say load her up are you talking boost or just like shove her in a higher gear than needed and make it pull. My problem is gona be that even after I re-build it again I cant really load it up much cause my

Link V5 is not tuned right. Still basically running on it's start up programme which could be to rich or to lean......I have not got enough experience with tuning the shit to set it up. Would hate to be too rich and borewash during the running in process! C my delemma.

I spose I could trailer it over to Nelson and do a running in tune and then take it back again for a proper performance tune later????

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