lowlancer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Can't get the bitch to crank over Have without a doubt connected everything up as it needs to be, have trpile to the power of infinity checked everything. Basically the only thing I've done differently was not install a terminal block for power to the ecu, but afaik that just allows the wire to double back...? Basically, I'm getting no spark from the coil at all, and it's fucking me off terribly. I chuck my test light on the crank plug from starter solenoid and it definately glows when cranking, albeit relatively weakly compared to say, testing straight off the battery. Presumably this is due to the starter nicking the voltage? In any case, there is definately power there. The other concern was the - signal to the coil that usually comes from the dizzy. In my case it comes from the igniter. How can I test that there is a signal coming from there? Cos if there aint, then the coil aint gonna do jack. Timing etc is irrelevant at this stage, as I can't even get any spark to time! Churr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macabre Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 ok i have a similar prob with mine, if im cranking it drops voltage to the computer, try wiring the computer straight to the battery with a fuse of course. I have to tease my ign so its just cranking otherwise it wont start. i.e just on the verge of cranking otherwise if i turn the key too far it will just wind over and over infintum. its something to do with having batt in the boot. when i had the computer with power all th tim it would start no worries. for a while i had a it hardwired to batt and had a switch on it. try that anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 Re did all my earths, pure bare metal. Weird thing is, is that I had spark last week, gave my mate a dead arm through testing.. I must have fucked something up radically. Called Neil, he didn't even know if he ordered a single coil or 4 coil LT10, so that was hardly comforting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 should let uncle bob know, so he can deal to neil it's not straight up, therefore, it's not ideal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 What the fuck are you on about? Anyway, might give macabres stz a go tonight Anyone else had similar issue with battery in boot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Iv had the battery in the boot of 2 of my cars (not inc Minis etc) with no problems at all, as long as you've got a good heavy duty + cable (I use 0 gauge) and good earth points (Iv got 2 2 gauge cables off my - terminal going to different spots) it shouldn't be due to where your battery is. Where are you taking you live power for the MicroTech from in you car, and where have you connected your earth lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 Power for microtech is from battery, direct, Earth is to bare metal on chassis. It said to use negative terminal preferably, but that's beside the point. I was getting spark, now I'm not, so I have to suss what I've done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Try using a 3mm cable to the - terminal, i now you have said you had spark but after talking to the local tuner here and a couple of other places that do MTs you'd be surprised how much of a differance the earth point can make. Also try getting rid of that ballast resistor and using a jappa efi coil since you've now got a decent ignitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 Ok, I'll give the 3mm a go Can you explain how I'd go about losing the resistor? How do modern cars operate with 7V during cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honda Ass Dragger Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Microtech require 14.5volts to operate with out it the ignition sytems on them alwasy seem to fail. Mate has a microtech in his dx running 3tgte had nuffin but issues until he got beefed up alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Hmmm that could be an issue. The lights are coming on the microtech and the fuelpumps continue to pump while cranking. I also just replaced the alternator with a brand new item Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 alt does nothing until it's running bo3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Yeah, was just saying regardless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 14.5 volts ..if the batt is ideally charged it sits at around 13 volts you could manually check the coils to see if they are working (ohmmeter) they should always work unless resistance is infinante , can you tell if the microtech is working when u turn it over e.g light on it somwhere? .try push starting it , then maybe the ecu might have enough charge to do the rest without starter having to work , just some points i thought might help correct me if im wrong and yea i know my grammer is horrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 just read part about light coming on , do you have a l.e.d test light??? run it along everything to do with ignition ciruit while winding over should flash on and off (similar to timing light) , there a rugged as way you can test ignition coils but im not sure if it works with electronic ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 When I connect my test light to the crank wire to the coil, it glows solidly, it doesn't switch on and off at all. So there is definately power going to the coil, but now I'm just not sure whether the igniter box is telling it to fire. I ripped everyhting out again tonight and am gonna give it another go, taking my time. Can anyone explain how to remove the ballast resistor from the circuit safely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 yuh tow start ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Oh, and no didn't get it going Rewired the earth straight to the battery earth. Test light seemed to glow brighter, but still nada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Can anyone explain how to remove the ballast resistor from the circuit safely? You would need a non ballast coil then just wire it in with the feed from your ignition and the pulse wire. It he didn't even know if he ordered a single coil or 4 coil LT10, so that was hardly comforting. try buying/borrowing 4 2 wire coils from a wrecker, just make sure there all the same model. We're setting up a mates CA with coils out of 2 bluebirds, only cost $50 for all 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 What's this pulse wire? Presumably that means the crank wire? If so, when my test light is connected, shouldn't it pulse? It doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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