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How much rust is TOO much rust?


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That = amateur rust. The Sud was the definition of rotten, if I had the hindsight I would never had bothered with it. All that stuff is pretty minor, the only real strutural bit is the B pillar, the doors and guards aren't a major, but I'd get new steel welded in there myself.

For replacement bits and pieces (such as doors) you might wanna get hold of that Harry Landkroon guy, posts on Club K, posts on TS, and might even post here? He has E7 Corolla bits for Africa.

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Nah I can't see any chassis rust or rust in the firewall/floor. I think it's just rust on the outer shell where water commonly accumulates.

I heard that Toyota had mega rust issues in the early 80s as Toyota Japan changed the type of coating on the bodyshells when they were shipped to NZ, and when they were acid dipped it reacted with the new coating badly or something.

I've seen a couple TE71s and KE70s at wreckers with even worse rust than mine. It just seems to be concentrated in a few places while the rest is fine.

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What do you mean it's not a genuine TE71? It's an NZ spec one so has the 2T-B twincarb pushrod engine and drum brake rear end, while the jap-spec GT model has the 2T-GEU and T series disc brake rear end. It's also a 2 dr liftback which GT models don't come out as.

It's a TE71 - just not a GT model.

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  • 3 weeks later...

a te71 without rust?? :lol: only in our dreams :D

that B pillar looks like a bit of a mission due to the bends and corners involved.. you'd have to make it out of a few bits bent up to shape or better still.. find a liftback wreck and cut that part out to weld in. most important is that you get rid of ALL the rust on the metal before its painted or welded. iron's corroded by oxygen and water is a super highway for oxygen... rust soaks up water and if you don't completely get rid of it you're gauranteed to get it bubbling up again.

the other parts are flat and wont take much to cut and patch by someone with experience.

imo cut all rust out and do it properly before spending on the drivetrain.

i'd also suggest to check the inner panels for signs of leakage.. pull off the door and side trims and see if theres water streaks down the inside of the panels.. if yes then get the leaks sorted as it'lll rot out the sills.. same for the boot lip and tail lights. one of the most important places to keep rust free is below the windscreen under the wiper panel. any holes there will cause havoc! front tow hook is another problem area as water sits in the chassis rails and eats from inside out.

but anyways, your not alone when it comes to cutting rust out of 70's :? the driving pleasure i get from mine is worth it :twisted: i cant offer to help tho as i have too much on my plate already.

just to give ya an idea... saved from the dead!

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70newlr.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr1.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustr2.jpg

http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ke70rustrrqrtr.jpg

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Yeah DX is the base model 1300cc KE70. I think the DX is most common (or the DX is what most young people commonly get their hands on).

I get annoyed when people keep saying mine's a "DX bro" but it's not! It's a SE model - none of this base model shit.

Mine differs a little to that SE model above - mine has door mounted mirrors and big ugly rubber bumpers. It looks more like the GT.

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