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Pinking


NewGuy

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My car was Pinking! As the car has been tuned on Leaded Fuel the high octane fuel that we have just did not seem to cut it for my car (Triumph Dolomite Sprint). I went to etchells race parts they are right next door to my work, and they gave me a bottle of octane boost, didnt charge me they just said try it if it doesn't work you don't gota pay.

But it has seemed to work and the pinking has stoped, theyll do it at a special price cause ill most likly buy alot lol, as it has sort has solved my problem till a re tune. But what i am trying to say is that they do work, who else has used them with it working?

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when im feeling poor, i mix :lol: 10L of 95 + 10L of 91 = 20L of 93 :P nah, but just recently tried some 91 in the tina, man it runs like a sack of shit. what is required to run 91 on a car tuned for 96? just retard the timing a lil aye?

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If you dont have a timing light, put 2 marks on the dizzy and the mount part (that doesnt move with it) so you know were to put it back to if it doesnt help, but fiddle around (little movements are bigger than ya think) with the dizzy and move it each way and drive it, see if it helps, if it gets better, then turn it more the same way and see what happens, only takes 5 mins and could fix the problem easy as, if it doesnt help turn it the opposite way past your marks, if that doesnt help, then compression is too high for the fuel your using I'd say

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There are a couple of things to know about petrol, and octane "boosting".

There are 2 measurements of octane in petrol, the RON number and the MON number. The RON number is quoted at the pump, and according to a Shell Tech, I spoke to, the MON count is generally a figure 10 below the RON for NZ Specification petrol.

In a high compression motor, the RON count isnt necessarily that important, its the MON value, and in Marsden Point Petrol this on the odd occassion is at its lowest limit.

So if you are looking for a Octane Booster make sure that it will pull the MON count up as well, else you arent actually doing anything for the pinking.

Why did I found out about this......

A couple of years back we were doing a week long car club run in the South Island

My old BMW 3.0Si was running fine in Wellington, and through my first tank of gas out of Christchurch, I gassed up at Shell in Twizel, and from then on until I gassed up at the Challenge in the Marlbrough Sounds (4 days) the car was pinking like crazy, this included putting 2 bottle of octane booster in at Invercargill, and backing the timing off until the car was "hunting".

I got in contact with Shell to complain about their dodgy gas, and when I explained the situation and the type of car, he said it was down to the MON count being at the low end of the specification. The Tech was actually a guy who I knw fromspeaking to us at a couple of Car Club meetings, and knows his stuff, rather than somebody who was giving a customer the "short shift".

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If you dont have a timing light, put 2 marks on the dizzy and the mount part (that doesnt move with it) so you know were to put it back to if it doesnt help, but fiddle around (little movements are bigger than ya think) with the dizzy and move it each way and drive it, see if it helps, if it gets better, then turn it more the same way and see what happens, only takes 5 mins and could fix the problem easy as, if it doesnt help turn it the opposite way past your marks, if that doesnt help, then compression is too high for the fuel your using I'd say

Well the octane booster definatly fixed my pinking problem, it is a pretty high compression engine, Compression Ratio Being 9.5:1

Going to have a play with the timing this weekend, im pretty sure that my engine is always going to need high octane fuel, to run at its best.

Cheers for your explanation

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There are a couple of things to know about petrol, and octane "boosting".

There are 2 measurements of octane in petrol, the RON number and the MON number. The RON number is quoted at the pump, and according to a Shell Tech, I spoke to, the MON count is generally a figure 10 below the RON for NZ Specification petrol.

In a high compression motor, the RON count isnt necessarily that important, its the MON value, and in Marsden Point Petrol this on the odd occassion is at its lowest limit.

So if you are looking for a Octane Booster make sure that it will pull the MON count up as well, else you arent actually doing anything for the pinking.

Why did I found out about this......

A couple of years back we were doing a week long car club run in the South Island

My old BMW 3.0Si was running fine in Wellington, and through my first tank of gas out of Christchurch, I gassed up at Shell in Twizel, and from then on until I gassed up at the Challenge in the Marlbrough Sounds (4 days) the car was pinking like crazy, this included putting 2 bottle of octane booster in at Invercargill, and backing the timing off until the car was "hunting".

I got in contact with Shell to complain about their dodgy gas, and when I explained the situation and the type of car, he said it was down to the MON count being at the low end of the specification. The Tech was actually a guy who I knw fromspeaking to us at a couple of Car Club meetings, and knows his stuff, rather than somebody who was giving a customer the "short shift".

I will check up on this tonight, Cheers man

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If you dont have a timing light, put 2 marks on the dizzy and the mount part (that doesnt move with it) so you know were to put it back to if it doesnt help, but fiddle around (little movements are bigger than ya think) with the dizzy and move it each way and drive it, see if it helps, if it gets better, then turn it more the same way and see what happens, only takes 5 mins and could fix the problem easy as, if it doesnt help turn it the opposite way past your marks, if that doesnt help, then compression is too high for the fuel your using I'd say

Well the octane booster definatly fixed my pinking problem, it is a pretty high compression engine, Compression Ratio Being 9.5:1

Going to have a play with the timing this weekend, im pretty sure that my engine is always going to need high octane fuel, to run at its best.

Cheers for your explanation

Thats cool, although 9.5:1 should run easily on 96 octane, have you done a compression test on all cylinders?

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Well the octane booster definatly fixed my pinking problem, it is a pretty high compression engine, Compression Ratio Being 9.5:1

Going to have a play with the timing this weekend, im pretty sure that my engine is always going to need high octane fuel, to run at its best.

Cheers for your explanation

Thats not high at all. It should run on 91.

Mines almost 12:1

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If you're going to pay extra for high octane petrol, buy it from a high turnover site because the aromatic compounds have a very short "shelf life".

Also, don't fill up when the tanker is there filling the tanks because they stir up all the scale and sediment from the bottom of the tank which will in turn clog your fuel filter.

Slightly off topic, but relevant...

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  • 5 weeks later...

When i built my V8 it had 40 tho shaved off them to give about 10:1 in a 302. Now its abit bigger (351) and the compression is somewhere above 12:1 (worked it out to be 12.3:1) first start up it was fine till i drove it. i retarded the sparK and it ran like crap (wouldnt pull like a V8) and when advanced it pinked on the slightest load aplication.

I settled for an old trick on the XY GT-HO phase 3, block the vacuum advance. now it runs on mecanical and the advance curve is alot less aggressive (that was creating the pinking)

FWIT combustion chamber design, spark plug temperature, engine temperature, engine material (cast/alloy) construction, intake temperature, air/fuel ratio, Vacuum/boost ect ect the list goes on!! any one of these affect the octane requirements of an engine. i once read somewhere that under low load/high vacuum conditions (light throttle/low horsepower) the octane needed is only as low as 70. once Load increases/ vacuum falls the requirements go up. At full raa/load it falls on basicly commpression ratio to what octane you need. But, you dont go round at full throttle (boys in blue, will love you) and it comes down to all of the above! the only immediate acton to relieve pink-(which is the flamefront not burning correctly), detonation-(multiple flamefronts from hot spots/exploding mixtures), is static ignition timing. thats timing at the distributor. Engine Management Computers have mapping so static timing doesnt do much, as it will give the intial timing at idle, but the mapping still advanced fast and can cause "pink". contunual pinking does destroy engines. its like taking a hammer and smashing the piston. Conrods are designed to take extreme pressure,but not shock caused by pinking. pinking is directly linked to conrod falure, piston ring failure, berring falure, blown head gaskets...list goes on.

its pritty extreme, but its the worst case senareo when you hear that "knock" (best described as tapping a hammer on a steel bench at half revs of your engine) so dont leave it.

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yeah i have same prob with 351w in the fairlane is heaps better with vac adv disconected. what cam u have also plays a part in your comp ratio. a cam with alot of duration will bleed compression low in the rev range effectivly reducing your comp ratio. when we built the motor for the corty we had set everything up for 10.5 -1 comp we put a 600thou lft and 310dur cam in it and it ran like a pig . took it back to engine builder and check comp at cranking speed had almost no comp as the valves were open so long and with lots of overlap. we shaved another 30thou off heads. and it gave enough comp off cam to make it run half decent. if u had a true 13-1 comp it would just about b pinking at idle on our shitty pump gas. the corty had true 10.5-1 only ran good on pure av or alright on 50-50 av/petrol mix

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