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  1. go to manfield.co.nz they got a list of stuff they got booked up to start of next year thats private days and Clubsport open days. Days that you can go on the track and have some fun. one on 24th September. they change the dates often so have to look few days before to see if it hasnt changed. Helmet, cotton overalls, fire extinguisher and WOF/REGD cars. they do a quick once over for saftey and you are away. $60 for the day. screutineering starts at 9ish.
  2. think the answer is this 2Fe + 3H2O = Fe2O3 + 3H2 this reaction happens at high temperature of both Iron and water (steam) Fe2O3 + 3H2 = 2Fe +3H2O It also happens in reverse. Eventually it will corrode through (nothing last forever) but its not going to do it in 5 minutes either. HPC coating is very good at keeping the heat into the the exhaust air, therefore keeping it hot and flowing fast. when exhaust cools it becomes denser and harder to move, so the longer it can stay hot the easyer it is to move, less horsepower loss trying to push exhaust air out the exaust pipe some 3-5 meters long (its why diameter goes up the further away from the engine, to suport the heavyer, slower moving air) With turbos, this puts tremendous amounts of heat being put into the turbo. i have heard alot of turbo berring falure due to heat. weather or not they where cheap berrings it would be enough for consern. it might also be that the engines were not let to "run down". i think many beleive that leaving a turbo to idle for a few minutes is to let the tubo slow down. i dont think this is true. the engine is left running to let the heat in the turbo to disapate through the engine oil and air, and let the manifold to cool down as well. Turning a hot turbo off immediately will result in the turbo super heating and since the engine head is cooler will draw the heat from the turbo through the manifold back to the head. since the intake side of the head will cool faster than the exhaust it can result in a cracked head, cracked manifold. also, if an engine like this has been left to cool, the oil is cool (say 20-30 degrees C) but the ceramic berrings are still hot (over 100 degrees C) on contact the berrings may crack resulting in berring falure. (its what can happen in ceramic tap washers with single lever taps - they crack and leak) Its something to consider. It makes sense, but it dosent mean it right. just my controbution.
  3. Random

    Pinking

    When i built my V8 it had 40 tho shaved off them to give about 10:1 in a 302. Now its abit bigger (351) and the compression is somewhere above 12:1 (worked it out to be 12.3:1) first start up it was fine till i drove it. i retarded the sparK and it ran like crap (wouldnt pull like a V8) and when advanced it pinked on the slightest load aplication. I settled for an old trick on the XY GT-HO phase 3, block the vacuum advance. now it runs on mecanical and the advance curve is alot less aggressive (that was creating the pinking) FWIT combustion chamber design, spark plug temperature, engine temperature, engine material (cast/alloy) construction, intake temperature, air/fuel ratio, Vacuum/boost ect ect the list goes on!! any one of these affect the octane requirements of an engine. i once read somewhere that under low load/high vacuum conditions (light throttle/low horsepower) the octane needed is only as low as 70. once Load increases/ vacuum falls the requirements go up. At full raa/load it falls on basicly commpression ratio to what octane you need. But, you dont go round at full throttle (boys in blue, will love you) and it comes down to all of the above! the only immediate acton to relieve pink-(which is the flamefront not burning correctly), detonation-(multiple flamefronts from hot spots/exploding mixtures), is static ignition timing. thats timing at the distributor. Engine Management Computers have mapping so static timing doesnt do much, as it will give the intial timing at idle, but the mapping still advanced fast and can cause "pink". contunual pinking does destroy engines. its like taking a hammer and smashing the piston. Conrods are designed to take extreme pressure,but not shock caused by pinking. pinking is directly linked to conrod falure, piston ring failure, berring falure, blown head gaskets...list goes on. its pritty extreme, but its the worst case senareo when you hear that "knock" (best described as tapping a hammer on a steel bench at half revs of your engine) so dont leave it.
  4. Random

    falcon lsd

    i think they machined the axles down to acept the different berrings needed to run the disc brakes. Was told to avoid them (V8 aplications anyway) as they snap axles at this point like carrots. But for 2L application they probly fine
  5. Random

    escort lsd

    Ya falcon diff going to need shortening. Thats housing and axles. plus relocating mounting points for shocks and springs. Fair bit of cash. Just an idea but you may use a capri diff, 3 Litre type. Altho trying to find one of those will be hard. (havent tried but someone may know of one)you could also try cortina. A Cortina 6 would be mint as its a 6 cyl falc diff factory shortened, altho the gears would be suited for low revving high torque engine - high revving low torque engines. so the diff head swap will be in order. Altho they are a burnout car to start with Also escort diff below 3.9 get smashed becaues of skids, hard driving. The lower number is like riding a bike in a higher gear. It puts huge loads on the pinoins and spider gears (they the ones in the housing, the small ones) and they smash. i have been told that 4.4 gears are hard to find but hard to break. Also, just a stupid point, things break because of traction. if you have no traction then things wont break. if you have enough power to simply spin the wheels, no major stresses are put on the driveline. eg, turn a corner in the wet and boot it. But when you dump the clutch with revs on board, you shockload the whole driveline to break traction at the tyres. Mega stress on every component from the engine to the tyres. If you got bikkies on (thin tyres) they will spin up easy as. If you pump up ya tyres to 35-40psi they will spin up easy too. (appy both and it can be rather fun...) But back to your issue, it might be easyer and cheaper to find a second hand Quaife head or the likes and put that in the original housing. Not sure if standard axle splines will go into the new head so some of those may need to be souced too.
  6. think its white nugget, but not sure. you will have to ask an old hot rodder how he kept his white wall tyres white on 50's american cars.
  7. Brakes! get it to stop fast and keep stopping without fade. stay on the gas longer and outbrake everyone. easy and cheap, some decent pads make a huge difference in braking potential. Can go silly and get drilled/slotted rotors, multi pot calipers ecy but they big dollars. lose some weight. every 10 pound out of the car is as good as putting 1 horsepower in the engine (think its about 6kg=1kW) its why a car goes faster on a 1/4 tank of gas compaired to 3/4.
  8. basic check (rule of thumb, aplies to all) turn an axle and the other should go the same way, (as it shouldnt go backwards, thats open wheeler) or hold one axle and try to turn other. it will not be posible by hand. DONT BE STUPID AND JACK UP ONE SIDE OF A CAR AND DRIVE IT TO SEE IF ITS GOT ONE! its only for when the diff is out of the car. (had to say) Ratio is turn driveshaft and count the axle turns. for example, one turn of the driveshaft input will give 4.5 if the axles. high number will have the axles spinning fast (eg 4.111) low number will be low speed (eg 2.5) Low numbers are best in high torque, low revs engines (eg V8s and deisels) provide great fuel economy, top speed. lose responsiveness. High numbers are best in low torque, high rev engines(eg 4AGEs, Rotarys ect) provide mind bending acceleration, lose top speed. thats a realy bad summary, as it depens on gearbox (5sd/6sd) and tyre size. a 215/45R17 has a longer rolling diametre to a 215/45R14. so the smaller tyre is as effective as changing the diff ratio to a higher one.
  9. LSD work on a clutch pack that is engaged by electronic or spring or whatever. the clutches slip and eventually lock up transfering all power to both wheels. over time (depending on how you use ya LSD, and how many times a day) the clutches lose there grip, springs lose there tention and the LSD becomes tired. Its the same principal as to why the clutch wears out in the gearbox. the clutch packs can be replaced and specialists can get LSDs to act as responsive as lockers. But yes, they do wear out.
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