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thmini's mini


davidian

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new shocks wont let you go any lower unless some n00b's put slightly longer than stock shocks on it already.....

be careful with the rear that on bump etc it's not going to smash shit outta your guards, and slice the brake hoses - most wont after 1970 (changed location of them around this time) but still worth checking!!

no bumpstops on rear from factroy stz FTW

best handling is about an inch off the bumpstops at front, and the rear to match, heightwise, some nice stiff shocks, and 10" wheels with sticky 165s. 12" = tiny trade off in handling, more comfort.

13s = aesthetic, handling nightmare, bumpsteer to the hems b0e!

mine was lower and it still handled mint. - bout tha 75mm thing.

bumps shouldn't really worry you, i never really scraped on anyting, took it thru paddocks stz even. ultra short wheel base pwns a fat load all over my face

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fuck. various heights.

they lower themselves over time with wear in the plastic cup under the knuckle joint, especially at the front (often only at the front) ad especially 1300 cc ones.

and sometimes had washers between knuckle and cone to raise them at front slightly from factory stz.

bout 30-40mm higher than what he's rocking atm though i expect = around stock height

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nah, new shocks (shortened) will let me go lower at the back because at the moment, if a back wheel come off the ground (every time i turn in the driveway) the hi-low part will fall out because it's not captive if i make it any lower than it is at the moment. So with new shocks (shorter/harder) i will lower it more at the back. they = expensive tho, for what i want to get

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still running like shit, tis driving me nuts, is only running on 2 cylinders, sometimes 3.

really starting to fuck me off,

its cylinders 1 and 2, both have spark, and compression seems sweet, must be the carb being a cock. just cant seem to get it sorted

also, discovered that the clutch pipe is leaking, which is sort of a releif because that has also been stressing me out.

any idea of what the carb problem would be appreciated, or even other stuff i should check to try and get it running better

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what I'd do is check for spark on all cyl, generally I'd say if its running on a specific 2-3 cylinders then it will be ignition, if its just running shitty then it will be fuel/carb.. Got another carb to try?

make sure there is a good strong spark on ALL cylinders first. how long has the car been sitting around?, could be dirty fuel or something, sometimes when carbs sit around the fuel dries up and you get this funny dry orange shit left in the carb and it could block up jets etc.. not to familiar with SU's yet, only worked with normal downdraught stz carbs, but take it apart and have a look for blockages/blow it out with air compressor or something...

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what I'd do is check for spark on all cyl, generally I'd say if its running on a specific 2-3 cylinders then it will be ignition, if its just running shitty then it will be fuel/carb.. Got another carb to try?

make sure there is a good strong spark on ALL cylinders first. how long has the car been sitting around?, could be dirty fuel or something, sometimes when carbs sit around the fuel dries up and you get this funny dry orange shit left in the carb and it could block up jets etc.. not to familiar with SU's yet, only worked with normal downdraught stz carbs, but take it apart and have a look for blockages/blow it out with air compressor or something...

the petrol in it is all new, although when i opened up the floats there was that orange sortof shit so i might give the carbs a quick blow

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Yeah, new petrol is all good, but there is still old crud left in the lines and carb which is what ends up clogging up jets.. had this problem on my old ke20 and what I ended up doing was getting the compressor onto the fuel lines and filter, then took carb apart and cleaned, ran fine after that

It doesn't take much to clog them up

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